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68 Posts
Gonna be the death of me
My CVV (Oil Separator) DIY Journey in Pictures
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One thing that almost got me on my ccv kit (with hoses) is that one of the hoses had an oring that didn't fit correctly into the grove. So instead of compressing into the grove upon insertion, it wanted to shear off. So I ended up using the old oring for this one particular spot and all was good. Just figured I'd share just in case it might help...
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7 Posts
Drain the oil?
I'm going to attempt this job, but do I need to drain the oil first? I didn't see anything about that. Thanks!
I'm going to attempt this job, but do I need to drain the oil first? I didn't see anything about that. Thanks!
I plugged the hole that remains after removing the dipstick, to prevent particles from entering the oil pan. I took the connectors out of the old crispy plastic hoses and replaced the hoses with industrial grade hoses. I also replaced the oil separator while I was there. My 528i wagon is now running smooth. I still have a minimal vacuum leak that whistles after 1800 RPM. It is coming from one of the vacuum plugs at the rear left corner of the intake manifold. I have to find that 7 mm and the adjacent 3 mm vacuum plug to finish the job, but my nearest dealer is 1 hour drive and they don't stock much of anything, nor do they take phone or internet orders. I'll have to get creative. I wander if anyone has found aftermarket replacements for those plugs
EDIT:
I found that the vacuum leak was coming from a tiny hose that connects the check valve with the vacuum control valve that opens to activate the secondary air injection valve. I replaced the hose and the engine came very much alive, with a lot of power. Even the transmission seems to shift smoother and upshifts frequently to keep the rpm's above 1300-1400.
http://blog.bavauto.com/8003/diy-video-replacing-the-bmw-m54-crankcase-ventilation-system/
I used this YouTube from BavAuto along with the OPs pictures.
Make sure you clean the BACKSIDE of the throttle control and I'd advise the Oil Filter Housing Gasket while you have all that apart, if not previously done. It's a $5 part, and will add an hour, but save a couple, as the area is already apart.
I used this YouTube from BavAuto along with the OPs pictures.
Make sure you clean the BACKSIDE of the throttle control and I'd advise the Oil Filter Housing Gasket while you have all that apart, if not previously done. It's a $5 part, and will add an hour, but save a couple, as the area is already apart.
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7 Posts
Awesome, thanks a lot!
Just did the job holy crap, he wasn't lieing about putting it back together. Took me 3 and half hours but the job is done. Thanks a lot starless 2 of my hoses were cracked. I recommend buy the whole kit as you'll have surprises along the way with the hoses gents. I got mine off amazon for $50 for hoses and ccv
can't find where return hose goes ccv
hey I have bmw 323i 2000 e46 I have random missfire and running lean I had replace ccv card find where top return hose goes I think my m54 is different from wat I see online I had replace all da hoses someone help me with this
hey I have bmw 323i 2000 e46 I have random missfire and running lean I had replace ccv card find where top return hose goes I think my m54 is different from wat I see online I had replace all da hoses someone help me with this
Here's a highly detailed 3 part video from BavAuto.com on replacing the CCV system.
It should have your answer.
https://youtu.be/YWXtiCwRH-k
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25 Posts
Two reasons for wanting to do this on my sons 2001 325Ci:
1. Whistling heard under acceleration.
2. Oil leaks from some of the seals. Seals have been replaced but want to prevent future leaks. I'll do the oil cap and dipstick vacuum tests to confirm there's an issue but I'm sure there is.
1. Whistling heard under acceleration.
2. Oil leaks from some of the seals. Seals have been replaced but want to prevent future leaks. I'll do the oil cap and dipstick vacuum tests to confirm there's an issue but I'm sure there is.
As someone who just went through this process just recently I must say you have done outstanding job!
in documenting it.
I have made only one screwup (not really 100% my fault) which is when I was moving brake booster hose out of the way my "vacuum valve sucking jet pump" separated at the valve, due to its age. I guess the bonding of plastic pieces dried out and did not take much force to separate the part. Tried to epoxy it but was not sure that would last so ended up replacing this whole thing:
I replaced it with non-OEM part, plastic bonding on this non-OEM part is lot better.
This problem alone delayed me for a few days, until I received the part.
Also, my DISA valve was broken, flap was free (light colored plastic shaft that moves the flap was cracked) and the pin at the other was kind of lose. That second part was scary! Pjn could have got sucked into the engine!
luckily I figured prior to attempting CCV rebuilding that I should get a new DISA valve, I did so and that was a good call.
what I learned long time ago is that no matter how careful you are with planing (and I planned a lot, watched videos etc) there is always something that could go wrong due to age and or mileage of the vehicle. But, it is easier to deal with one issue than multiple issues that can arise from lack of planing.
I would like to add that it is especially important to take the pictures of your engine before and during disassembly process, so you can document something that later could be be a head scratcher, unless you have made some notes.
For example, all went well with putting it together but the upper intake boot did not fit. I looked at the picture that i have taken before I dissembled the engine and realized that intake boot needs to be rotated some 20 degrees until "F" fitting is in position like it was in the my picture. Someone installed the boot in slightly crooked position, it formed its shape and when I tried to put it to position that it should be it did not fit properly.
Another tip I can share is that I made a diagram of some electrical connectors on a white board, just to keep me sane, and I also separated bolts in groups (DISA valve, ISC, harness bolts, throttle housing etc) into different bins. That way you almost eliminate the possibility of major screwups when you do the job very first time. But then again, couple of decades ago I use to work professionally on more exotic cars than BMW.
I had a 1984 Maserati biturbo (I know...) that I tinkered with every day, that thing kept breaking down so it ended up having lots of MB and BMW parts in it, including a fuel injections system that I adopted from 5 series BMW
That Maserati was the worse piece of s$1t, but I learned a lot how you are NOT suppose to make a car.
One more suggestions is to use silicone spray on CCV parts before you even try to install them. Assemble the parts on your bench, snap them onto oil separator a few times, make sure you practice putting the upper plastic pipe onto oil separator prior doing it when it is under the manifold. That last part is probably the most difficult step in whole process.
There is a trick that you have to know, that upper plastic pipe needs to be turned 90 % and then rotated up and position in its place. When you do this under the manifold it is a pain in you know where. so, practice this beforehand.
All in all project was quite easy for me even though this was first time I have done this.
This dude have done awesome job in documenting this process and watching his videos helped me tremendosly:
BMW E46 Quicker CCV Replacement - Part 1 and 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btggLSedkxc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OhyZBxM1vA
Planing is the key.
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