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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was stupidly trying to rock my frozen window free when it made a weird sound and apparently came off its track. The glass is now sitting in the bottom of the front driver's side door.

I have the interior panel off but the glass is behind the vapor barrier. How do i proceed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks to both of you for the advice. Unfortunately I got impatient and started dicking around before I saw your posts. I did the entire repair with the battery connected, which was obviously a mistake, but everything else seems to have gone fine.

I was able to get the window back in its clamps by removing the speaker and peeling up the vapor barrier a bit. Nothing inside was broken, the window just pulled out of its clamps and one of the clamps fell off its wire. I got everything back together now and the window goes up and down fine. I'm sitting in my car now getting warm and typing this post. I'm about to go for a quick drive and make sure I haven't introduced any new rattles or anything.

Best part of all, my dumb tint didn't even get scratched!

One more thing. The vapor barrier seal was pretty ****ty, and I made it even worse by peeling it back. Will this be fine until spring when I can open it up and seal it for real? I assume it would be difficult to do it now since adhesives don't take well to ~15 degree temps. I haven't ever noticed any wetness up front like I did in the back before I did those seals over the summer.
 

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Thanks to both of you for the advice. Unfortunately I got impatient and started dicking around before I saw your posts. I did the entire repair with the battery connected, which was obviously a mistake, but everything else seems to have gone fine.

I was able to get the window back in its clamps by removing the speaker and peeling up the vapor barrier a bit. Nothing inside was broken, the window just pulled out of its clamps and one of the clamps fell off its wire. I got everything back together now and the window goes up and down fine. I'm sitting in my car now getting warm and typing this post. I'm about to go for a quick drive and make sure I haven't introduced any new rattles or anything.

Best part of all, my dumb tint didn't even get scratched!

One more thing. The vapor barrier seal was pretty ****ty, and I made it even worse by peeling it back. Will this be fine until spring when I can open it up and seal it for real? I assume it would be difficult to do it now since adhesives don't take well to ~15 degree temps. I haven't ever noticed any wetness up front like I did in the back before I did those seals over the summer.
If your vapor seals are loose u must glue them asap. Any water that goes in u doors is going to end up in your footwells!!! Maybe do it in the garage where the temp is warmer

Sent from my iPhone using BimmerApp
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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25,199 Posts
- POWER WINDOWS SUDDENLY STOP WORKING: low-quality unreliable window regulator mechanisms (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) and a repair kit (1) (2) and for other models (1) (2) (3) (4)

- REAR DOOR VAPOR BARRIER FAILS CAUSING WATER PUDDLES: improper adhesive used on rear door vapor barrier seals that allow rain water to fill the rear footwell (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & sizes for the adhesive (1)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If your vapor seals are loose u must glue them asap. Any water that goes in u doors is going to end up in your footwells!!! Maybe do it in the garage where the temp is warmer

Sent from my iPhone using BimmerApp
Yeah, I had that problem in the rear footwells earlier this year. I don't think the front seals are as important because there were large loose areas even before I started pulling stuff last night. I go to the car wash twice a week, so I would probably have noticed if the front seals were letting water into the footwell.

I don't have a garage, so the only way I could get the door warmer is with a hair dryer or something. Maybe I'll just put a strip of duct tape around the seal to make me feel better until spring rolls around.
 

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I have the interior panel off but the glass is behind the vapor barrier. How do i proceed?
Hi PJ,

Surprisingly, I am stuck at exactly the same point you were!

And, I read ALL those DIYs (none explained the step you were stuck at and I'm still stuck at). This is shocking (to me).

I opened up a thread but nobody has responded yet (and I'm still digging for the answer, especially as I wasted the daylight hours looking this up).

And I thought I had it under control. My mistake!

What EXACTLY is the next step after you remove the door panel itself?
Do we just tear off this vapor barrier? Do I unbolt the air bag?
Do I remove a speaker and peel up the vapor barrier around that speaker?
- What's the NEXT step for removing the door panel to diagnose broken window regulators

NOTE: I noticed you said:
"...removing the speaker and peeling up the vapor barrier a bit"
but I don't really understand what that translates into by way of steps. Can you elaborate?

 

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^ there's three bolts holding the speaker to the door itself.
Remove them and the entire speaker assembly will come off.
Then take the three bolts off the airbag.
After that just PEEL the vapor barrier off the door, be gentle though.
That's where I am right now.
Damn wire fell off the pulley. -_-
 

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Damn wire fell off the pulley
In my case, the two clamps at the bottom simply let loose.

All I had to do was reposition the window in the two clamps and tighten the #2 Phillips bolt and that was it.

Completely sordid details (including pictures, DIYs, & videos) here:
- One user's experience with diagnosing the front left driver door window regulator (1)
 

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BTW, I've taken my window setup apart a few times now, so these threads may help ...
- One user's effort to diagnose, rebuild, and replace a BMW E39 front driver side door window regulator (1) and how to remove a BMW E39 front passenger side door window regulator (1) (2) & the unintuitive trick to effortlessly loosen and tighten the astronomical cable tension without damaging the front door window regulator (1) & how to rebuild and restring your current E39 front door window regulator (1) & scores of pictures showing how NOT to remove & repair your front door window regulators (1) & how to replace just the rollers (1) (2) & a survey of all available brands and prices and suppliers for front window regulators (1) (2) & how to replace just the plastic pulleys with machined stainless steel rollers (1) & things not mentioned in most window regulator DIYs (1) & BMW E39 rear window regulator replacement DIY (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & McGyver fixes on the road (1) (2) & rear window regulator repair kits (1) (2) (3) (4) & what brand rear window regulators should I get (1) & where to get salvaged parts (1) & how to remove the rear window (1) (2) & how to adjust the windows after the repair (1) (2) (3) & how to temporarily keep the window up (1) & how to rewind the transmission case windup spool (1) (2) & how to slip the cable wires back onto the pulleys (1) (2) (3) & how to replace just the rollers (1) (2)
 
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