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Hey bimmerfest! first time posting here so my apologies if i***8217;m posted in the wrong section. so i***8217;m faced with a dilemma. recently my 2007 530xi e60 started jerking when accelerating. went to erurofix & was told i need
-INTAKE RUNNER VALVES (2) 2,335$
TRANSFER CASE SERVICE 420$
SPARK PLUGS W/ AIR FILTER 495$
for a grand total of 3,250$. they***8217;re prices are high so i***8217;m sure i could get the 2 cheapest things for less at another shop (if not i***8217;m fine lying those prices), but when it comes to the install valves is there a DIY for it? where i can buy the parts, fit them & it***8217;ll be good as new. This is obviously too much for a 5,000$ car so it***8217;s either DIY the runner valves in an affordable ranges or sell the car. appreciate all the help and advice i can get! thanks!
 

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You need a real diagnostic first before you start changing things.. those list of things don't make a whole lot of sense, but your description of just jerking while accelerating isn't too detailed. I'm not familiar with the 530 platform itself, but if you had a BMW specific scanner you could at least look for misfires in cylinders which would lead to spark plugs or coils. Still there's a lot of possibilities without that knowledge.
 

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2006 530xi 6 MT
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Hey bimmerfest! first time posting here so my apologies if i'm posted in the wrong section. so i'm faced with a dilemma. recently my 2007 530xi e60 started jerking when accelerating. went to erurofix & was told i need
-INTAKE RUNNER VALVES (2) 2,335$
TRANSFER CASE SERVICE 420$
SPARK PLUGS W/ AIR FILTER 495$
for a grand total of 3,250$. they're prices are high so i'm sure i could get the 2 cheapest things for less at another shop (if not i'm fine lying those prices), but when it comes to the install valves is there a DIY for it? where i can buy the parts, fit them & it'll be good as new. This is obviously too much for a 5,000$ car so it's either DIY the runner valves in an affordable ranges or sell the car. appreciate all the help and advice i can get! thanks!
Don't know what is "intake runner valves".

Transfer case service I assume is oil change. It is a bit of a PITA. Maybe a little high.

Spark plugs w/ air filter. This is a pretty easy DIY for most people. Use a torque wrench. I could do it in an hour or less. The plugs from Rockauto are $8.58 each. Mahle air filter is less than $20.
 

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As already stated, get a good code reader and scan the car yourself if the shop didn't already provide the codes to you.
From there you can google any codes and search threads for best diagnosis and treatment.
That shop is trying to take advantage of you. Plugs and filter should run no more than $80 total for the parts, and doing them yourself is free with just a couple hours invested for first timers.
Transfer case likely doesn't need changed, it's likely just a high margin item for them.
No idea what "intake runner valves" means, but I bet you that's nothing more than walnut blasting the intake valves on your N52 engine, which I believe is direct injected like my N54. If that's the case, then you could do it yourself for less than $400 (less if you already have an air compressor), or pay someone local for less than $600.
 

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As already stated, get a good code reader and scan the car yourself if the shop didn't already provide the codes to you.
From there you can google any codes and search threads for best diagnosis and treatment.
That shop is trying to take advantage of you. Plugs and filter should run no more than $80 total for the parts, and doing them yourself is free with just a couple hours invested for first timers.
Transfer case likely doesn't need changed, it's likely just a high margin item for them.
No idea what "intake runner valves" means, but I bet you that's nothing more than walnut blasting the intake valves on your N52 engine, which I believe is direct injected like my N54. If that's the case, then you could do it yourself for less than $400 (less if you already have an air compressor), or pay someone local for less than $600.
N52 is not direct injected, so walnut blasting is not a thing you need with that car.
 

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Never head of a intake runner valve. Quick google search shows that some BMWs have an intake manifold runner control valve. Watching a video on how to change I see maybe an hour labor so maybe it’s the wrong thing.

Whatever it is, trust that if no one here knows what it is you may be getting taken advantage of?

Ask for a list of codes and specific replacement parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest
 

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N52 is not direct injected, so walnut blasting is not a thing you need with that car.
I mistakenly read that off the N53 wiki tab I also had opened when researching the N52.
OP, disregard my thoughts on that then! :D
And whatever they meant by "intake runner valves", it sounds like a rip off!
 

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Could the "intake runner valves (2)" be the DISA valves? They are in the intake. If that's what they mean, $2,335 is outrageous. The valves are parts #2 and #3 in this diagram (at least for the 2006 model):
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=NF73-USA-06-2005-E60-BMW-530xi&diagId=11_3756

Even the genuine DISA BMW parts are $300 and $350. Disconnecting the intake manifold enough to get them out is a minor PITA. No way near $2,335. **PLUS**, unless the shop took them out, how do they know they are bad? I'm guessing this is more "preventative" maintenance and they have no idea if there is an issue. Now, I will say if the DISA flap comes off, it isn't good. But, I don't think I've seen an engine death from it.
 

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Google search confirms that "intake runner valves" are indeed the DISA's. The flap actuator motor gears fail.

On an N52, DIY R&R is probably a 2 hour job. The large one can be reached on the manifold. The smaller one requires removing (or disconnecting and folding back) the manifold. Buy 6 intake gaskets, because they'll be flattened by now and you really need a leakproof fit when you put the manifold back on.

Manifold access is a very straightforward job -- look for videos on replacing the starter motor to see the removal of the manifold. All the details there.

Before you remove the manifold, INPA has a test routine that open and closes the DISA flaps. You can diag them by placing a mechanics stethoscope on the DISA's and toggle them open and closed. You should hear a "thump" when they open, and another when they close. DISA failure to open/close is not at all unusual.

Or, you can open the manifold and remove the small DISA.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-disa-valve-kit-11617579114kt for 750

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/473163/Engine-Intake-Manifold-Kit-3086381KIT/ for $600

Lots of non-BMW, but reported history is sketchy on these.

IMHO, BMW DISA's are vastly overpriced. There are repair kits available if you're willing to open the DISA assembly, for around $75 or so each.

Anyway, it's a ripoff. Kit plus real labor (2 hours) for this job is probably $1100, max.
 
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