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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 330i e90, change the engine and car won't start and give p0335 error code. I have changed 4 crankshaft sensor and still it won't start. I even got 2 crankshaft sensor from a working vehicle and still it won't start and still throw error code p0335 (crankshaft sensor).
What can I do now?
 

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Check for a pinched or broken wire. The engine is not seeing the signal from the crankshaft sensor, so you need to trace the wiring to determine why.
 

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I have a 2006 330i e90, change the engine and car won't start and give p0335 error code. I have changed 4 crankshaft sensor and still it won't start. I even got 2 crankshaft sensor from a working vehicle and still it won't start and still throw error code p0335 (crankshaft sensor). What can I do now? [Put the old engine back in and start over? NAAH, NOT Practical :)]
Check for a pinched or broken wire. The engine is not seeing the signal from the crankshaft sensor, so you need to trace the wiring to determine why.
"Car Won't Start" is NOT a very helpful description. I ASSume you mean the Starter Cranks the Engine, but the Engine won't fire? Fault Code P0335 does suggest there is some issue with the CPS Signal as received (or NOT received) by the DME, MSV70 for the 330i. P0335 does NOT mean: "Replace Crankshaft Sensor without TESTING circuit", as you have now learned 3 or 4 times. ;) MOST people seem to think ANY Fault Code means "replace part X" (Expen$ive) as opposed to examining and testing wiring and connectors (FREE). WHY is that???

Dharma's suggestion is good. However, in addition to an issue with the Signal wire from the CPS to the DME (Black/Blue per Linked TIS wiring diagram), it is also possible, and probably MORE likely that there is an issue in (1) Power supply to the CPS via the Orange wire from Fuse F03 in the E-box (as switched by the DME Main Relay, K6300), OR (2) Signal power (probably 5V as opposed to 12V+) via the Yellow wire between Pin #29 of Connector X60005 at the DME to Pin #3 of Connector X6203 at the CPS. If you have 12V+ at the Orange wire, Pin #1 of Connector X6203 at the CPS, AND 5V at the Yellow wire at Pin #3, then you need to test for continuity in the Black/Blue signal wire, between the CPS Connector and X60005, Pin #30, at the DME.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/engine-speed-recording/hxCHGvd

Here is TIS wiring diagram for fuse F03. Note that it is powered ONLY if Terminal 87 or the DME Main Relay is properly activated, and that it powers the DISA Actuators, the CPS, the MAF Sensor, several other things, AND the DME. One of the most likely scenarios is that one of the orange wires powered by Fuse F03 is shorted to ground (pinched) and fuse F03 is blown. If you are NOT aware how to measure OHMS on the F03 Feed wire to test that circuit between the fuse and the components/sensors the fuse powers (rather than blow more fuses), let me know.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/uT8YBGK

Here's the TIS "Connector View" for the CPS Connector, X6302:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/HRZfRg5o

Here are "Installation Location" and "Connector View" for DME Connector X60005:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/1VnZAHHjcD
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/CTGzfGDm

Here are Installation Locations for K6300 & F01 - F05 in the E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/H2p1xfX3
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/SNEe0ZE

Please let us know what you find,
George
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The engine crank and i have used a multimeter to check voltage at the socket and the are as u said 12v pin1, 5v pin 3 and pin 2 is through to ground.
I have inspected the wires to the sensor and no cut where found.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The engine crank and I have used a multimeter to check voltage at the socket and with key on there is 12v pin1 orange wire, 5v pin 3 yellow wire and pin 2 is through to ground.
I have inspected the wires to the sensor and no cut where found.
At first when the engine was inserted it crank and started for some seconds then cut off. When I tried it again I noticed there was no spark to coil and no pulse to injector. I found a fuse was bad and replaced it and got back spark and pulse, after that the whole crankshaft sensor problem now started
 

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The engine crank and I have used a multimeter to check voltage at the socket and with key on there is 12v pin1 orange wire, 5v pin 3 yellow wire and pin 2 is through to ground. [NOT sure what you mean by "through to ground"? If that is intended to mean same as "continuity to ground" or ~ 0 Ohms resistance in relation to ground (Ohm Meter Red Probe on Pin #2 and Black probe on Ground, meter reading ~ 0 Ohms), then I would test that wire FURTHER as described below]
I have inspected the wires to the sensor and no cut where found. At first when the engine was inserted it crank and started for some seconds then cut off. When I tried it again I noticed there was no spark to coil and no pulse to injector. I found a fuse was bad and replaced it and got back spark and pulse, after that the whole crankshaft sensor problem now started
Running for a few seconds and then cutting off, with NO spark or injector pulse AFTER cutting off, is consistent with a blown fuse. Fuse F03 supplies power to BOTH the DME, AND the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) per the TIS wiring diagram linked previously.
1) WHICH FUSE did you replace?
2) Was it F03?
3) If NOT what was the fuse# and WHERE was it located?
4) You say after replacing the unidentified fuse you got both spark & injector pulse -- did the engine START, or if NOT how did you determine you had both spark & injector pulse?
5) Do you STILL have both spark & injector pulse but it WON'T start? If you don't have both spark & injector pulse, have you checked for another blown fuse in the E-box (one of the 5 fuses located in same Fuse Carrier as F03).

AFAIK, if you have, or HAD, BOTH spark & injector pulse, BOTH Fuse F03 and Fuse F02 were intact, and the DME was receiving signals from BOTH the Crankshaft Sensor and at least ONE of the Camshaft Position Sensors. The DME, besides being powered via fuse F03, NEEDS Camshaft & Crankshaft Sensor signals to TIME the injector & coil pulses. So here is the "Valve Gear" wiring diagram again, showing power supply to the sensors, Crankshaft Sensor via F03, and Camshaft Position Sensors via F02, found next to each other in the Fuse Carrier in the E-box.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-electronics-quality-control-valve-msv/engine-speed-recording/hxCHGvd

If NEITHER F02 or F03 are NOW blown, but you have NO injector/spark pulse, AND you have 12V+ at both F02 & F03 with Ignition ON (DME Relay K6300 active) then the Sensor Signal wires are the next thing to check. I've never done that, but best way I know would be to disconnect Connectors at BOTH ends of wire (at Sensor AND at DME) and (1) test for continuity to ground (SHORT to Ground) at both ends, and then use a patch cord to (2) test continuity between the two ends of the wire. In other words, you want Infinite Resistance in Test 1, and ~ 0 Resistance in Test 2.

ALSO, I'm assuming P0335 (Crankshaft Sensor signal) is ONLY code saved in DME, and that you have cleared that and it returns after cranking without firing? If that is NOT the case, please try clearing the P0335 code, cranking several times, and reading codes again. Then update info here.

Hang in there. If you got it to run for a few seconds, it would appear that you did the job correctly for everything except perhaps a pinched wire.

BTW, do you have any diagnostic software such as INPA? Do you have any Scan Tool that can read Parameters (Live Data) or do Activations? THAT would make diagnosis of the issue simpler than having to use a Multimeter only.

George
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I clear the codes and try starting it again but still the same result.
Earlier when i checked the f3 & f2 they where good. When starting it i also hear hard sound times coming from under the engine
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have a torque pro obd scanner and a little obd scan tool which I used to read the fault codes
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I checked the signal wire for short to positive or ground and it was not.
Can bad plugs trigger that error code.
Can the can the crankshaft signal plate also trigger the code.

Am seriously confuse on where the problem and solution ly
 

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Just had this thought. When you replaced the engine, did you remove the fly wheel at some point? If you did, then it's possible that the flywheel is in the wrong position relative to where it supposed to be causing problems with the timing and firing order.

You will need to split the engine and transmission to check and reposition it......
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I checked the signal wire for short to positive or ground and it was not.
Can bad plugs trigger that error code.
Can the can the crankshaft signal plate also trigger the code.

Am seriously confuse on where the problem and solution ly
 

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Just had this thought. When you replaced the engine, did you remove the fly wheel at some point? If you did, then it's possible that the flywheel is in the wrong position relative to where it supposed to be causing problems with the timing and firing order.

You will need to split the engine and

transmission to check and reposition it......
Yes
I placed the fly wheel as it was removed from the the old engine and it on the correct side
 

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I checked the signal wire for short to positive or ground and it was not.
Can bad plugs trigger that error code.
Can the can the crankshaft signal plate also trigger the code.

Am seriously confuse on where the problem and solution ly
You need to check the wires for connectivity from connector to the computer. Get a wiring diagram for pinouts and check continuity from connector pin to computer pin.
 

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PHP:
Yes
I placed the fly wheel as it was removed from the the old engine and it on the correct side
I don't know if there is a location pin or a key to indicate how the plate is positioned but it's possible that it is rotated on the crankshaft from where it's supposed to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I checked the signal wire for short to positive or ground and it was not.
Can bad plugs trigger that error code.
Can the can the crankshaft signal plate also trigger the code.

Am seriously confuse on where the problem and solution ly
You need to check the wires for connectivity from connector to the computer. Get a wiring diagram for pinouts and check continuity from connector pin to computer pin.
I just went through the wires from socket to dme and i got continuity and also got correct voltage at pin 1 and 3
 

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Discussion Starter #18
PHP:
Yes
I placed the fly wheel as it was removed from the the old engine and it on the correct side
I don't know if there is a location pin or a key to indicate how the plate is positioned but it's possible that it is rotated on the crankshaft from where it's supposed to be.
I video myself removing the fly wheel so to avoid putting it the wrong way.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Pls how can i test oil separator angle connector with multimeter. When i tested it gave me 4 omhs with the continuity sound on
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The angle connector i bought and the old one read the same way. Pls can I get also I guide on how to remove the crankshaft signal plate from my old engine
 
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