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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Someone else posted this on bimmerforums:

http://www.voltphreaks.com/home.html

I ordered the 6.5 lb version. Expensive, but less than half the weight of an Odyssey PC680 or PC625. Now I can finally use the copper pieces Randy milled for me years ago for power distribution, and reclaim some precious cargo space.
 

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hardtop potentate
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any reason the 6.5lb instead of the 4.5lb? They even offer a 3lb version, though it's listed as car/motorcycle, which makes me wonder if it's got enough juice.
 

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Ok if it's a daily driver. I remember reading it needs to be charged (car driven) every 1-2 weeks or will loose the charge (or add trickle charger?)
Their 8 lb. battery will hold a charge for 1 month....better choice for me.

Definitely a benefit to the hybrid/electric car tech. advances......:thumbup:
 

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Ad Grunt
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any reason the 6.5lb instead of the 4.5lb? They even offer a 3lb version, though it's listed as car/motorcycle, which makes me wonder if it's got enough juice.
6.5 lb
-- 650 cold cranking amps
-- 44 min. reserve power

4.5 lb
-- 450 CCA
-- 29 min. reserve

3 lb
-- 250 CCA
-- 17 min. reserve

Compare to Interstate's replacements:
MTP-91 -- 700 CCA
MTP-H6 -- 640 CCA
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok if it's a daily driver. I remember reading it needs to be charged (car driven) every 1-2 weeks or will loose the charge (or add trickle charger?)
Their 8 lb. battery will hold a charge for 1 month....better choice for me.

Definitely a benefit to the hybrid/electric car tech. advances......:thumbup:
They're not making the 8 lb one anymore... the 6.5 lb one replaced it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
And for what it's worth, I use my CTEK 3300 charger on a regular basis now (at least once a week, usually more). I put a powerlet outlet in the e-box lid for this purpose, so it's very easy to plug the car in.
 

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A Clean Windshield
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be good if I could get two of them in the well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow, $675 for a battery! Too rich for my blood!
How much does the OEM battery weigh?
43 lbs from an old post from Ron. Of course I'll never buy an OEM battery again. The Interstate MTP-91 I have right now is a little lighter, but not much (I think Interstate claims it's 36.5 lbs, but I seem to recall seeing it weighed at something like 41 lbs... there may have been some variances year-to-year). The current recommended Interstate for our cars is the MTP-H6, 46 lbs.

Optima yellow D34/78 is 43.5 lbs but doesn't fit. The Optima D75/25 can be made to fit with parts I'm working on. The plan is to be able to swap between the lightweight and the Optima yellow D75/25. I also gain power distribution for my amplifier, which I can't accomodate with a stock-size battery. If I have no issues with the lighweight, someone else winds up with my parts for the Optima D75/25.
 

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I was looking at the 6.5lb the other day.
It sure is tempting for the M to reclaim that trunk space AND drop some weight.
The cost is hard to swallow though, on a new car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
These accomodate an Optima (including the D34/78), but will also be used with the 6.5 lb lightweight from voltphreaks. 1.5" x .375" copper (110) bars adhered to 1.5" fiberglass angle with Loctite 325 (7075 activator). The relief notches are to let the Optima handle slide down in its tracks without binding. Holes are 3/8"-16 for whatever kinds of posts or bolts you need. Need one normal positve battery post and one normal negative battery post for the car's cables. The others depend on what you use to go from the battery to the bus bars, connect accessories, etc.

If I had a mill, I'd have made the notches prettier. But all that really matters here is that they work.





Some example posts when I was doing test fitment. The discoloring on the copper is leftover primer I sprayed on to keep the copper from soaking up thread-cutting oil when I was tapping the holes.



Making sure the Optima fits, before I had made the reliefs and the second bar. This is in a spare battery box I used as a plug for a mold way back when. The Optima has 4 copper washers under the brass bolts in the side posts. Looks like plenty of room for the right ring terminal. Cut the top posts off, and everything will fit. The Optima is snug as a bug with this setup.

 

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Which battery are you fitting for HC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Which battery are you fitting for HC?
I haven't decided yet. The Voltphreaks battery will be here this week, when it arrives I need to figure out fitment and what other parts to order. I'm trying to avoid buying the expensive crimper we talked about. I could presumably fit the Optima very soon. But... I only have 2 weeks to test the Voltphreaks battery once it arrives, to see if I want to keep it or return it. The plan was to use the Voltphreaks battery for Homecoming, so I have a tiny bit more storage space. On the other hand, the Optima would be the 'safe' choice, especially if we're using our hood lighting at night for the parking lot gatherings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
There's no good way to make the safety battery terminal (SBK) work with my plan. It basically insists on being in the battery box, and there isn't room to accomodate it.

It looks like I have two options. One is to eliminate the SBK; it didn't exist on earlier models. Another is to try one of the repair kits. The one shown in the TIS for the E46 looks like it might fit, and the SBK matches a diagram Ron posted way back when. But they're presumably expensive for experimenting (and I haven't found a part number yet).

I think I prefer ditching the SBK. Looking at the pictures Randy sent me of their '99, I'm jealous. Clean, simple, and easily accomodates my plan. And no issues with the pyro going off in a light accident and immobilizing the car until I break tabs on the SBK and shove the cable back together.

Ron, I can't find the part number for the repair kit mentioned in the TIS. Ever seen it?

EDIT: nevermind, found it under the E46 330 touring. 61.12.8.387.512. trademotion.com is down, but realoem says $433. Yikes, that's almost $100 more expensive than a new started cable with SBK included.
 

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There's no good way to make the safety battery terminal (SBK) work with my plan. It basically insists on being in the battery box, and there isn't room to accomodate it.

It looks like I have two options. One is to eliminate the SBK; it didn't exist on earlier models. Another is to try one of the repair kits. The one shown in the TIS for the E46 looks like it might fit, and the SBK matches a diagram Ron posted way back when. But they're presumably expensive for experimenting (and I haven't found a part number yet).

I think I prefer ditching the SBK. Looking at the pictures Randy sent me of their '99, I'm jealous. Clean, simple, and easily accomodates my plan. And no issues with the pyro going off in a light accident and immobilizing the car until I break tabs on the SBK and shove the cable back together.

Ron, I can't find the part number for the repair kit mentioned in the TIS. Ever seen it?

EDIT: nevermind, found it under the E46 330 touring. 61.12.8.387.512. trademotion.com is down, but realoem says $433. Yikes, that's almost $100 more expensive than a new started cable with SBK included.
Might set a fault and light removing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Might set a fault and light removing it.
Disconnected the BST firing wires tonight, rolled some chicken bones, then measured the resistance across pins 1 and 2. .2 ohms on the el-cheapo DMM. So I assume it's just a typical igniter wire. If I get an SRS light or code, I'll put a .1A fast-blow fuse across when I delete the safety terminal. Wish I knew what was on the output stage of SRS for that circuit, but I'm assuming it's gotta be more than 100mA.
 
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