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Discussion Starter #3
Fitment

That's it Ryan. Need 2 know more.?
 

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Those are the kevlar tweeters? How do those sound? Are they as smooth as silk tweeters? Great idea moving the tweeter down closer to the midrange. They look a little off-angle though. How is the imaging?

How were you able to mount the midranges without making holes through to the front of the panel? Did you have any problem in creating necessary distance between the speaker and backside of the grill to prevent contact with the speaker excursion?

I have an e60 with standard hifi. This is going to be such an expensive pain in the ass to do. Even if I put all the time and money into it I'm worried after it's all done the result will still suck because the speakers are only 4" sourced with the stock head unit.

I'm sure you probably already seen these custom panels made in Europe they look interesting so I will link you just in case you have not.
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product_list/c_path/60_436_439/spd/bmw/pg/2.html
Everything looks great. I wish I could hear it.

Awesome photos. Very nice job.

Thanks a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
continued

Hi again. The tweeter is perhaps not as soft sounding as silk dome buy very dynamics.
They sound great..!http://www.focal-fr.com/catalogue-docs/EN/14/files/1759.pdf
About the rear door speaker placement, it´s like that from the factory.
Adout the image, well there is not that much to say about it,because the sound is behind you. I only replaced thouse speakers to get 4xFocal.They just add more "sound"
I mounted the speaker with different very small screws, measuring before screwing them in .!! About the speaker excursion, again no problem .! plenty of space.:p
Is 4" to small.? no not at all..!! the focal 4" have a frequency response down to 120Hz
If you want bass from the doors you must have a real enclosure build into the doors .
In my setup the 2x8" subs reinforced with three layers of sound deadening do the job great.!!
Was it worth it.? hell yes.!!! but i have to say that the Bit one 7x31 band equalizer
plus the time delay can be overwhelming . But if you have the ears, the sound will reach a new level. :supdude::supdude:
 

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Thank´s for the link. Haven´t seen that before lol.
Yeah, this Jehnert company make some cool looking stuff. Unfortunately I can not find product reviews anywhere. The speaker placement on some of the custom panels looks to be a little less then ideal. I would certainly consider going this route but shipping to USA from Deutschland would be pricey especially if there are any problems and I need to return or replace. I'm also not too crazy about having to drill holes into my existing panel.
 

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Are your 2 x 8" woofers the SWS model from earthquake? How much power are you pushing to your speakers?

I definitely need an EQ. I am not a big fan of line out converters. CDT Audio told me that they used the 5volt signal from the head unit straight into the aftermarket amp and totally bypassed the stock amp with great results on a recent BMW install they did.

Here is my constantly changing product list as of now:

-Focal components [FRONT]
-Focal coaxials [REAR]
-Earthquake SWS 2ohm [under seat]
-JL g6600 amplifier
-Audio Control LC6i line converter

What type of music do you listen to? A lot of the music I listen to comes from Sweden.

Thank you very much for all the information.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Ryan. First let me say that i love powerfull deep bas.!!
Before i began this project i had already added 3 layers of sound deadening material to the oem subs.! After installing the gear im not goner change the oem subs, why..? because they pump deep, low, and loud .!!!! but keep in mind that thers three different oem subs from BMW.Power to the sub=1x400 real watt in 2 ohm (Focal Fp 1.800) and 4x75 watt to the doors( Focal Fp 4.75) About equalizer, yes !!! you must use equalizer.!!!
In my case, like you know . I use the Audioson bit one, and after many hours"days" of adjusting, i can tell you, it´s worth every penny.!
ps: the front crossover is set to -3db for the tweeters.
Music: Funk ,hard pumping gangsta rap,heavy rock, well all kinds of music.
Mobridge 1000 . was it worth it ????? I think like you. it´is to expensive.!!!
But that´s the only way to get a "clean" signal from the headunit. Otherwise you will be feading your new sound with the crap sound coming from the L7 amp=Bad dynamic + noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ryan.About the Audio Control LC6i line converter .I really dont think that a line converter is the ideal choice.! Remember that you have a fiber optic signal that you don´t use in a line converter.! Yeah i know that you have to get the Bit one and the
Mobridge 1000 .!!! if not ,why not install a sub amp..?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
system hifi

Ok i see.!! can´t you get a line signal from the headunit insted of using the speaker output
from the amp .?
 

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Ok i see.!! can´t you get a line signal from the headunit insted of using the speaker output
from the amp .?
I suppose I could do that. I have never had much success in the past with standard LOC's. I am seeking a good solution to convert the headunit signal to the amplifiers rca inputs.

I have another question about your install.
Where did you tap your remote wires? I have read some people tapped the remote into weird places like the cigarette lighter. This sounded really stupid to me. Shouldn't the stock amplifier already have a remote turn on lead? If not, I think using a signal sensing turn-on product would be a better idea then tapping something like the cigarette lighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi again. You can use pin 13 ( back of headunit) thats what the bmw technician says . I use the Bit one control unit to turn on Bit one+ all the gear.
I presume that the pin 13 is to find in the other end to the amp.
The reason why i dont use the remote turn on is ,because of some reason my gear can be activated after the car have been locked by pulling the handels( key is not near the door)
It turns itself off again after a couple of minutes . I guess the stock amp does exactly the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
standard HIFI

Yo Ryan. About pin 13. Not sure it´s the same on your car model.
About the rca connection check this wiring diagram out.! I think u can use the front left and right +- to get your rca connection. There is no sub output from the headunit so the left and right must carry a full bandwidth signal.! You might wanna change your oem subs after all.! On paper they dont look to strong.!:p
 

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Sorry for taking so long to reply. I was on holiday vacation. Thank you for those pictures. Those charts will be helpful.

I am leaning towards using CDT-6iM's for under the seats. link here ->http://cdtaudio.com/pdf/es-6im_tech_spec_paramater.pdf

They are a much better speaker then the earthquakes sws8's and I am looking for midrange more then deep bass.

That audison bit1 unit you have is awesome. I totally want one but don't really know if I want to spend the money on it.

Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it.
 

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I think it should be fine using a 6.5" instead of 8"

I think the underseat hifi woofer is 6.5" mounted in the 8" box using a factory adaptor. (i could be wrong about this)

These CDT woofers are the same price as the earthquakes. I personally need more midrange then just the a 4" door speakers. I'm not an SPL guy as much as SQ. I don't need a full spectrum for the type of music I like.

Those x--ion speakers look interesting but I can't find it on their website. I can't read german anyway : )
 
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