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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone

Just purchased a BMW X5 about a few months ago and now the CEL has popped on for several misfires P codes...look like coils. Maybe more...not sure :cry:

P0300
P0305
P0308
P0301
P0304
P0307
28356
24015

Where should I start or what would you all suggest. If spark plugs and coils. What brands should I get?

Thanks,

Regg
 

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How is the X5 running? What scan tool are you using to pull these codes? 4.8i or 3.0?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Its the 4.8 v8. I don't have a scan tool. I just went to Autozone who pulled those codes when they hook the obd scanner up to the truck. I didn't want to take it to BMW for them to charge me 200-300 just to scan it. I figured when I saw the codes they were mainly tune up type codes so I would start there. I do have a pretty good mechanic so I was going to let him do the tune up if that's where I should start.
 

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Its the 4.8 v8. I don't have a scan tool. I just went to Autozone who pulled those codes when they hook the obd scanner up to the truck. I didn't want to take it to BMW for them to charge me 200-300 just to scan it. I figured when I saw the codes they were mainly tune up type codes so I would start there. I do have a pretty good mechanic so I was going to let him do the tune up if that's where I should start.
If you are keeping this X5 for a while a BMW specific scanner is a must. You can get what you need for $50-$100. You can do a lot of guessing but BMW specific codes/live data streams will narrow it down quite a bit
 

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THis is going to be sad and painful.

OP will most likely ignore our first advice (to buy a BMW specific scanner) and will instead jsut buy plugs and coils, figuring "it might do it"

(It won't, coils don't fail 'all at once'- multiple misfire codes in different cylinders is NEVER 'several coils or plugs went bad on the same day'.)

As others have said, the V8 can be a mess.... Are you in Brazil? Australia? UK? SOmwhere else?

"Tune up type codes"?!?!? No such thing.

Gonna be painful.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No

I'm here in the good ol USA....Chicago to be exact so if any of you are in the are feel free to reach out or send a message. Ok so what type of specific BMW scanner should I buy if I go on Amazon right now.

I was hoping that since a lot of you probably are familiar with the Bimmer a lot more than me you could tell me. I guess not??? That's fine. I'll go ahead and buy the scanner.

As far as me buying the truck, I didn't want it because I know and have heard all the horror stories about BMWs...I have a Lincoln actually but the girlfriend admantly wanted one and that was what my budget could afford so here we are? No since crying over spilled milk...now just gotta tackle what I can when I can
 

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I use an Autophix ES910 BMW Scan Tool. I think there are newer models. It works well for me but there are more well known options. I paid $90 for it a couple years ago. Foxwell is one more well known brand but I think it is about the same thing.
 

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No

I'm here in the good ol USA....Chicago to be exact so if any of you are in the are feel free to reach out or send a message. Ok so what type of specific BMW scanner should I buy if I go on Amazon right now.

I was hoping that since a lot of you probably are familiar with the Bimmer a lot more than me you could tell me. I guess not??? That's fine. I'll go ahead and buy the scanner.

As far as me buying the truck, I didn't want it because I know and have heard all the horror stories about BMWs...I have a Lincoln actually but the girlfriend admantly wanted one and that was what my budget could afford so here we are? No since crying over spilled milk...now just gotta tackle what I can when I can
I hear the foxwell 520 w/BMW capability is nice. About 140-150.

The problem is that 'misfires' can be a TON of things. If people were to start listing 'parts to replace that fixed misfires' you'd be chasing your tail.

I know you like to think "with this perfect list of codes, SOMEBODY must have that magic bullet solution that nails them all. Maybe. We'll see.

To be totally honest, I did not look up your P codes and list them out- I will bet big money NOBODY else did either....:angel:

Finally, too bad you only joined/participated in bimmerfest AFTER the purchase. Should have done it before. Many of us do not have BMW horror stories.... many 2,3,4th owners who buy cars that have been ignored seem to get this a few months after a cheap purchase....

:dunno:

get a reader, post the descriptions, go from there. Oh, CLEAR the codes, then drive it. See which codes come back. Your codes from the OBD scanner can be YEARS old!
 

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I realized I should reemphasize that last part....

The standard OBD protocol says it will collect ALL codes and store them. They will all be stored and read at the next read. And forever, UNTIL they are erased.

So you can get codes over the years, keep driving with the CEL on, and they jsut keep adding up. Or you can get a code (and CEL) and after a few drives, it disappears (ie no longer 'active') The CEL ges off, but the code stays in memory.

By recording all codes you see now- but then clearing your codes, driving until they come back, you can see which are immediate.
 

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I still want to know how it drives. Just codes or big symptoms as well?


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest
 

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I realized I should reemphasize that last part....

The standard OBD protocol says it will collect ALL codes and store them. They will all be stored and read at the next read. And forever, UNTIL they are erased.

So you can get codes over the years, keep driving with the CEL on, and they jsut keep adding up. Or you can get a code (and CEL) and after a few drives, it disappears (ie no longer 'active') The CEL ges off, but the code stays in memory.

By recording all codes you see now- but then clearing your codes, driving until they come back, you can see which are immediate.


You are sometimes tough on people here, but this is just 100% on point.

OP - Do you have more facts about your X5? How many owners prior? Local Chicago vehicle or did you get from outside salt road region? Maintenance history?


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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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You are sometimes tough on people here, but this is just 100% on point.
”Better right than nice!” From whom have we heard that before. Bwahaha!
 

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Agree with advice you've gotten so far. If this is a long term keeper:
1. Get a BMW specific code reader (I use Carly but not in love with it, it does the job...)
2. Erase codes, drive, see what comes back.

Hopefully the car came with a stack of receipts and you did a couple of things before you bought it:
1. Checked for any oil leaks.
2. You did the idle for minute and stomp on accelerator pedal to check for exhaust smoke (if smoke then valve stem seals are shot)
Most BMW engine leak oil, but this engine is unique in that the labor to replace those seals is daunting, and on top of that the valve stem seals and coolant transfer pipe seal also fail and are also high labor.
3. At your mileage either a previous owner did all this work at great expense in which case you scored, or nothing was done to it and it needs all of the above. Receipts would help determining what you have.

Regarding maintenance:
1. Google Mike Miller BMW lifetime maintenance, read his white paper, form your own opinion and maintenance schedule.
2. At your mileage and unless the car came with those maintenance records I mentioned, you should assume it has factory fill for differentials, transfer case, and transmission. On a Toyota / Lexus those fluids would have been changed 5 times if observing their maintenance schedule. Ponder what that does for the durability of those components.
3. Do not buy your parts from AutoZone / O'Reilly's. Shop at one of the many advertisers here and buy OE manufacturer / supplier parts. Exception is oil; the best bang for the buck oil for this engine is the Castrol LL-01 available at Walmart for $28 for a 5 quart (or liter, I forget) jug.
 

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Agree with advice you've gotten so far. If this is a long term keeper:
1. Get a BMW specific code reader (I use Carly but not in love with it, it does the job...)
2. Erase codes, drive, see what comes back.

Hopefully the car came with a stack of receipts and you did a couple of things before you bought it:
1. Checked for any oil leaks.
2. You did the idle for minute and stomp on accelerator pedal to check for exhaust smoke (if smoke then valve stem seals are shot)
Most BMW engine leak oil, but this engine is unique in that the labor to replace those seals is daunting, and on top of that the valve stem seals and coolant transfer pipe seal also fail and are also high labor.
3. At your mileage either a previous owner did all this work at great expense in which case you scored, or nothing was done to it and it needs all of the above. Receipts would help determining what you have.

Regarding maintenance:
1. Google Mike Miller BMW lifetime maintenance, read his white paper, form your own opinion and maintenance schedule.
2. At your mileage and unless the car came with those maintenance records I mentioned, you should assume it has factory fill for differentials, transfer case, and transmission. On a Toyota / Lexus those fluids would have been changed 5 times if observing their maintenance schedule. Ponder what that does for the durability of those components.
3. Do not buy your parts from AutoZone / O'Reilly's. Shop at one of the many advertisers here and buy OE manufacturer / supplier parts. Exception is oil; the best bang for the buck oil for this engine is the Castrol LL-01 available at Walmart for $28 for a 5 quart (or liter, I forget) jug.


^This and what ARD said.


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On point forum posts noted above. Set a base line, read codes/decipher needs, and get to work. Working on BMWs can be just as satisfying as driving them. Get to know your ride and enjoy it. No crying over spilled milk - adapt and overcome! Best of luck my 2009 X5 3.0 is a blast to drive and simple to work on if you avoid the guess work.


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Agree with advice you've gotten so far. If this is a long term keeper:
1. Get a BMW specific code reader (I use Carly but not in love with it, it does the job...)
2. Erase codes, drive, see what comes back.

Hopefully the car came with a stack of receipts and you did a couple of things before you bought it:
1. Checked for any oil leaks.
2. You did the idle for minute and stomp on accelerator pedal to check for exhaust smoke (if smoke then valve stem seals are shot)
Most BMW engine leak oil, but this engine is unique in that the labor to replace those seals is daunting, and on top of that the valve stem seals and coolant transfer pipe seal also fail and are also high labor.
3. At your mileage either a previous owner did all this work at great expense in which case you scored, or nothing was done to it and it needs all of the above. Receipts would help determining what you have.

Regarding maintenance:
1. Google Mike Miller BMW lifetime maintenance, read his white paper, form your own opinion and maintenance schedule.
2. At your mileage and unless the car came with those maintenance records I mentioned, you should assume it has factory fill for differentials, transfer case, and transmission. On a Toyota / Lexus those fluids would have been changed 5 times if observing their maintenance schedule. Ponder what that does for the durability of those components.
3. Do not buy your parts from AutoZone / O'Reilly's. Shop at one of the many advertisers here and buy OE manufacturer / supplier parts. Exception is oil; the best bang for the buck oil for this engine is the Castrol LL-01 available at Walmart for $28 for a 5 quart (or liter, I forget) jug.
The Castrol Edge 0w-40 European formula engine oil that I bought from Walmart sometimes costs only $19 per jug (5 qts).
 
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