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Discussion Starter #1
It's nice to see a great website like this for my E30. I also own an 86 MR2 and have been spoiled by the amount of info and advice available there. I have a couple of questions. I just got my 88 325i convertible a few months ago. It's clean, straight, everything works, just turned 100k miles, black leather Recaros, very clean interior, all stock except for the stereo, runs great, passed DEQ easily (Oregon) but I only seem to get 22 mpg (it is an automatic so I know that will lower the mileage but I thought I'd get more). I paid $2200 for it which I think is a pretty good price. Also--any suggestions/solutions to keep water from creeping in on the sides? The gap between the top cover and the body trim allows water to pool in the well where the top frame folds. I've tried to plug the gap with some neoprene but it doesn't seem to help. This car (I own 5) is my daily driver so will be out in the rain a lot here over the Winter. I also had an 84 318i which I gave recently to my ex-wife (we're still close) and sold her 89 Celica to pay for the 325i. The 84 was great, AT, only 106k miles, it was hard to give up but I was consolidating my collection. Now, if I can just sell my 80 Truimph TR7 convertible...
 

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livin large
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22 mpgs is about normal for these cars (at that altitude). other than doing a tune up and swapping to synthectic fluids, checking your tire pressure, and adding better air flow (intake and exhaust), youll be stuck in that area. also your fuel choice can raise or lower the mpgs. normally i ran 87 octane shell or phillip 66 fuel and got up to 26 mpgs with my eta at 6,000 feet. but i was also very light on the pedal.
 

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I always thought you had to run 93 octane in all BMW's. I had a '97 328 and a 2001 X-5 and each of them reocmmended 93 octane. I just assumed I had to put the same in my 89 vert.
 

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dream chasin'
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First off, you are NOT supposed to run synthetic oil in an M20. Motor is not made for it, and it will kill it slowly, maybe even fast. You are supposed to run 91 or better but you dont HAVE to. I mean you can run it on 89, but 91 helps it a little more. I run 93 Shell V-Power. They don't lie when they say it cleans your valves. When I did my head gasket my valves were spotless and everything internally visible was so clean.
 

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First off, you are NOT supposed to run synthetic oil in an M20. Motor is not made for it, and it will kill it slowly, maybe even fast. You are supposed to run 91 or better but you dont HAVE to. I mean you can run it on 89, but 91 helps it a little more. I run 93 Shell V-Power. They don't lie when they say it cleans your valves. When I did my head gasket my valves were spotless and everything internally visible was so clean.
UUGGGHHH, i've been running 5W-30 in my ETA. Why will it destroy it ?
 

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livin large
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I always thought you had to run 93 octane in all BMW's. I had a '97 328 and a 2001 X-5 and each of them reocmmended 93 octane. I just assumed I had to put the same in my 89 vert.
above i think 3,000 feet elevation, 93 octane doesnt exists. up there its 85, 87, and 91. just because there is less of an air content

you are NOT supposed to run synthetic oil in an M20.
15w-40 amsoil, no issues. there is no scientific studies by a respected company that proved running a synthectic oil in older engines is a bad thing. and to help prove my point, what do you think the high mileage oil is composed of? thats right, a synthectic blend.
 

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In Heaven
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above i think 3,000 feet elevation, 93 octane doesnt exists. up there its 85, 87, and 91. just because there is less of an air content

15w-40 amsoil, no issues. there is no scientific studies by a respected company that proved running a synthectic oil in older engines is a bad thing. and to help prove my point, what do you think the high mileage oil is composed of? thats right, a synthectic blend.
The bigger issue is running a detergeant oil in an engine which never saw any before...:dunno:
 

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livin large
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The bigger issue is running a detergeant oil in an engine which never saw any before...:dunno:
detergeant oil is used during break in on smaller engines and some cars pryor to 1970. but thats what i mainly ran in my lawnmover, generator, and pressure sprayer
 

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an audience of One
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First off, you are NOT supposed to run synthetic oil in an M20. Motor is not made for it, and it will kill it slowly, maybe even fast. You are supposed to run 91 or better but you dont HAVE to. I mean you can run it on 89, but 91 helps it a little more. I run 93 Shell V-Power. They don't lie when they say it cleans your valves. When I did my head gasket my valves were spotless and everything internally visible was so clean.
UUGGGHHH, i've been running 5W-30 in my ETA. Why will it destroy it ?
15w-40 amsoil, no issues. there is no scientific studies by a respected company that proved running a synthectic oil in older engines is a bad thing. and to help prove my point, what do you think the high mileage oil is composed of? thats right, a synthectic blend.
Synthetic in any ICE is a-ok. The only caveat is that synth oil is so much more "slippery" than dino that it will leak through seals/gaskets that mineral oil didn't. So, you may get oil leaks after switching to synthetic.

The bigger issue is running a detergeant oil in an engine which never saw any before...:dunno:
Heavy detergent content will free up sludge, which is good, but you should change the oil and filter soon after to prevent said sludge from ruining the engine. My HS autoshop teacher used to put one quart of *ATF in the engine (along with the engine oil), run it for 50 miles, then drain, change the filter and refill with 100% engine oil. YMMV.

*ATF is detergent heavy
 

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tappa tappa toit
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Synthetic in any ICE is a-ok. The only caveat is that synth oil is so much more "slippery" than dino that it will leak through seals/gaskets that mineral oil didn't. So, you may get oil leaks after switching to synthetic.

Heavy detergent content will free up sludge, which is good, but you should change the oil and filter soon after to prevent said sludge from ruining the engine. My HS autoshop teacher used to put one quart of *ATF in the engine (along with the engine oil), run it for 50 miles, then drain, change the filter and refill with 100% engine oil. YMMV.

*ATF is detergent heavy
Well said
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My thread has been hijacked...

I initially started this thread to ask about mileage and to get some suggestions on the leaks at the sides of my convertible top and it turned into a discussion on oil and gas. Anybody have any solutions (other than not driving in the rain which is not an option) for stopping water from getting in on the sides (especially the passenger side). I have used some neoprene to make a kind of gasket under the top edge at the sides but water pools up in the recess where the top frame rests when down. Any suggestions are welcome.
 
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