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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
I'm new to this form but not to BMW's having owned a E32 730, E38 740 & my current drive is a E64 645ci.
The 645 has been off the road for 6 months with the front end up on axel stands. (Due to a leaking power steering radiator failure & work on my house taking priority)
I have finally fitted a new radiator this weekend & have taken the car off the axel stands.
I am however getting a active steering fault & the power steering is very stiff.
I have tried to bleed the system (by turning the wheels lock to lock)
But no joy.
Any ideas?
(It's a model with dynamic drive)
Thanks Jason 20160229_113220.jpeg

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Have moved your post as this section is only really for DIY's and you won't get too many views there :thumbup:.

As usual, make sure your battery is tip top first, electrical gremlins will cause all sorts of problems with these especially since your car's been off the road for so long.
I take it you’ve got the fluid level right and haven’t drawn any fluid off while the engine was warm in order to reach the max mark, this will give you a low fluid level as just like ATF it expands a lot when warm.
You may need the BMW software to sort this out and you sound like a hands on kind of owner so if you don’t have it then get it, it’s really cheap now and will help you out no end.

I believe the Active Steering uses two sensors and if they return different information then the AS is deactivated, if repeated lock to lock (which as you say, doubles up as the bleeding procedure) attempts don’t work then given the work you’ve had to do it may be you need to run the start up procedure using the software, with DIS I think it’s in “Service Functions – Chassis and Suspension” then I think it’s “Active Steering”, you’d need to have a look through as I’ve not had to do this myself, if you do this I'd clear any existing faults first and then run the procedure.
I’m not certain if it’s the same route path with ISTA though, I have it but tend to use DIS more, HerbP may be able to help further with this.

I’m sure the others will chime in with some better and more accurate solutions as my knowledge is a little limited with the AS since I’ve barely had any issues with it, they are more likely to get you sorted with this.

P.s. Very nice looking 6 :thumbup:
 

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Make sure your battery is up on voltage above 12 volts. The Dynamic Drive warnings are usually caused by a bad voltage regulator, not hard steering. There is a special bleed procedure for the power steering & Dynamic Drive. If you lost a lot of fluid, air could be in the system. I would suggest to replace the steering reservoir since it has a screen filter inside of it, that is not replaceable. The reservoir is around 75.00, & CH11s fluid is a must. It is found in most auto parts stores made by Pentosin, it will be on a green can.

To run diagnostics using ISTA go to the control tree & right click on that module. From there you can run diagnostics using that module on the system. It would be best to clear all codes first, then work with the ones that come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi
Thanks for the replies.
The power steering system was empty of fluid due to the leak in the radiator (now replaced), So the system would have been low on fluid.
I have used CHF11S fluid to top up the system & turned the wheels from lock to lock as I believe this would bleed the system but still have really stiff steering.
Any help on bleeding the system would be appreciated.
Due to the battery being 14 years old a new one was fitted at the weekend, so I don't think voltage is now an issue as the car starts ok but I will put it on charge though to boost it.
Can you recommend what diagnostic tool to use as I have a obd reader which I used to read & clear the codes (picture attached)
Also it looks like I now need to replace the coolant radiator.
Any info on removing this would be helpful.
Are there any Haynes style manuals available for the 6 series?
Thanks Jason
IMG_20190218_172146.jpeg

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its worth getting the bmw tools installed on your computer and buying a proper cable to read the faults. Then you can troubleshoot things much better. Your steering needs initialization.
I think the radiator is not that hard as you can lift it from the top after disconnecting everything.
 

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There's no Haynes that I know of, there is a Bentley Manual for the 5 Series (which is what the 6 is based on) but to be honest if you get one of the BMW software suites, be it the DIS or ISTA sets then all you need will be included with it.

Power Steering Bleed procedure

Dynamic Drive info
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Search ISTA on Ebay, & this will provide everything you need.
Thanks guys.
As an update on the power steering being stiff.
I cleared all the fault codes with my obd reader.
Took her out for a short drive & within about 100 yards the active steering fault cleared from the dashboard & the steering went back to normal.
Just the loss of coolant to sort out now.
Thanks again for your help.

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Look closely at the expansion tank as it will crack after the engine has overheated, & if the cap is hard to install, it is damaged. Also look at the front of the intake area for white residues, at the y-pipe.
 

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Have moved your post as this section is only really for DIY's and you won't get too many views there :thumbup:.

As usual, make sure your battery is tip top first, electrical gremlins will cause all sorts of problems with these especially since your car's been off the road for so long.
I take it you’ve got the fluid level right and haven’t drawn any fluid off while the engine was warm in order to reach the max mark, this will give you a low fluid level as just like ATF it expands a lot when warm.
You may need the BMW software to sort this out and you sound like a hands on kind of owner so if you don’t have it then get it, it’s really cheap now and will help you out no end.

I believe the Active Steering uses two sensors and if they return different information then the AS is deactivated, if repeated lock to lock (which as you say, doubles up as the bleeding procedure) attempts don’t work then given the work you’ve had to do it may be you need to run the start up procedure using the software, with DIS I think it’s in “Service Functions – Chassis and Suspension” then I think it’s “Active Steering”, you’d need to have a look through as I’ve not had to do this myself, if you do this I'd clear any existing faults first and then run the procedure.
I’m not certain if it’s the same route path with ISTA though, I have it but tend to use DIS more, HerbP may be able to help further with this.

I’m sure the others will chime in with some better and more accurate solutions as my knowledge is a little limited with the AS since I’ve barely had any issues with it, they are more likely to get you sorted with this.

P.s. Very nice looking 6 :thumbup:

Looking at buying the less expensive Carly readers/software. Need to register the battery
and would like to DIY it myself. Which model Carly may be a good match for my car?

Do any of the OBD readers have the ability to read the fault history from the car?
Maybe I should spend more money.

Thx
 

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Which Ista model do you recommend?

Would it also work well with other brands, Toyota, Honda, Ford etc?

Thx
 

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ISTA/D, ISTA/P are made for BMW, Mini, Rolls, & Land Rover only. The package comes with all software & cables that you will need.
 

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I use both but here's the way I look at it, Carly is quite a powerful app for these cars and is very quick and easy to use, it's great for quick diagnosis, cbs resets, battery registrations and even monitoring parameter details such as engines temps and voltages on the fly. I usually use this after I've carried out various servicing jobs for the resets, as I say it's very very quick and easy to use.

For anything more than this then the BMW software will win hands down as it does everything Carly does and a whole lot more, it will give in depth fault diagnosis and can produce test plans for you to run based on the faults found and provide TIS information on how to replace any parts, you can even code new parts to your car (if they need it), with some faults you may need to drill down into an individual module in order to clear it (something Carly can't do).

Something else to think about is the price, on the face of it Carly can appear cheaper (at least when I got mine, not sure on the prices these days) and when I bought mine everything was included, but, as I understand it you now have "in app" purchases so for instance if you want to register your battery then you go out, buy the app in the app store then get the obd adaptor (at an extra cost) and then find there's an in app purchase to be able to register the battery, it can all get very expensive very quickly but once paid for you have it for life and for any future BMW's you may get.
With the software though, once bought you have it all in one package, you'll need to weigh up exactly what costs are involved with the app as I wouldn't be too surprised to find that it may work out more expensive than the software in the long run especially if you find you want all the in app purchases.

Bottom line:

Carly = Very quick to use, quick to learn, quite powerful for what is and quick to setup but can get very expensive.
Software = Not very quick to use, has quite a learning curve to start with, easily the most powerful and comprehensive diagnostic/programming system for our cars, not so quick to setup for small tasks such as resets and registrations.

And bare in mind that quite often with faults on these cars you may need to dig into the system much deeper than Carly is capable of.
If your a hands on kind of person then the software is by far the way to go but if your car goes to the garage for all it's servicing and repairs then the app will be fine and just pick the in app services you need in order to keep it as cheap as possible.
 
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