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No Crank, No Start N55

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7.4K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  Navidre91  
#1 ·
Hi,
I would appreciate it if someone could help me with the issue. (E92 N55)

Day1:
Tried starting the car, no crank. The second time cranked and stared. (I thought I didn't push the button all the way)

Day5:
Got the car out of the airport parking lot, no start at all!

When I start the car, I hear a click but no crank. I hear something running too, I'm not sure if that's the started motor or fuel pump.

The thing that I've done so far:

1- The battery was half dead, so I took it to Autozone, charged for 2 hours, tested the battery --> Battery dead, Replaced the battery.

2- Disconnected IBS sensor --> No crank

3- Check the voltage at jump-start point <12V --> The positive battery is connected, no fuse blown at the battery

4- Connected jump-start negative to the engine block --> No crank --> Ground strap is fine

5- Check the Relays in Junction box(glove box) and E-box(under the hood) --> Works fine --> No failed relay

6- Check the fused in Junction box and E-box --> No blown fuse

7- Check the power cable at the starter --> The prob lights up --> Power at the starter

8- Checked the power at shiny copper terminal going from the solenoid to the started when trying to crank the engine ---> Prob doesn't light up --> (a)No commands to solenoid (b)Faulty started solenoid

So, My question is that how I can check to see if the command gets to the starter or not, before taking off the intake manifold to change the started. If I can check a positive signal to the starter while trying to start the car I can rule out CAS and DME faults. (I'm not sure which wire in E-box I should back prob to check it.)
 
#4 ·
Hi,
I would appreciate it if someone could help me with the issue. (E92 N55)

Day1:
Tried starting the car, no crank. The second time cranked and stared. (I thought I didn't push the button all the way)

Day5:
Got the car out of the airport parking lot, no start at all!

When I start the car, I hear a click but no crank. I hear something running too, I'm not sure if that's the started motor or fuel pump.

The thing that I've done so far:

1- The battery was half dead, so I took it to Autozone, charged for 2 hours, tested the battery --> Battery dead, Replaced the battery.

2- Disconnected IBS sensor --> No crank

3- Check the voltage at jump-start point <12V --> The positive battery is connected, no fuse blown at the battery

4- Connected jump-start negative to the engine block --> No crank --> Ground strap is fine

5- Check the Relays in Junction box(glove box) and E-box(under the hood) --> Works fine --> No failed relay

6- Check the fused in Junction box and E-box --> No blown fuse

7- Check the power cable at the starter --> The prob lights up --> Power at the starter

8- Checked the power at shiny copper terminal going from the solenoid to the started when trying to crank the engine ---> Prob doesn't light up --> (a)No commands to solenoid (b)Faulty started solenoid

So, My question is that how I can check to see if the command gets to the starter or not, before taking off the intake manifold to change the started. If I can check a positive signal to the starter while trying to start the car I can rule out CAS and DME faults. (I'm not sure which wire in E-box I should back prob to check it.)
What I did was backtrack the white wire going to the starter in the E-box(the color changes to black after the junction) and reading the voltage when trying to start the car. It goes from 0 to ~10v. Does it mean the starter is shot?
I'm getting a k+dcan and an endoscopy camera to investigate it further more. I can check to see if the starter motor rotates but the solenoid doesn't push the fork to engage it with the gear.
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#5 ·
Sounds like you've already tested for 12V+ KL50 Signal (when START Button Pressed) from the CAS to Starter Solenoid (10V with Voltage Drop), and if it's there, but there is NO Crank (or even Click), pretty clear indication the CAS is sending signal, but Starter has failed.

I would tap on Starter Solenoid with broom handle or such, and even try "Hot-wiring" by applying 12V+ to Starter side of X6011/1, with Black wire to CAS disconnected so as NOT to damage CAS. Make SURE Shift is in P or N, Handbrake Set, as you are defeating Safety Switches. I see a new Starter in your future.
George
 
#6 ·
Hi George,
I actually have this page on and I'm reading it over and over again. Really helpful!
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1674682
I appreciate your dedication to being thorough!

So, on the X6011/1, the relatively thicker white wire is the one that goes to the solenoid, and I have to hotwire it to the jumper B+ terminal to check if the starter is dead. Correct?