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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so here we go again... this car is trying to kill me. 2001 325i, Auto, ~115k.

Replaced expansion tank, pressure tested by a bmw tech, and 2 weeks later my radiator light comes back on and I am about 1/2 qt low. Filled, no new light. BUT why would it come on?

That's not all though...

SES came on and coded P1347 (cyl 3 misfire). Cold starts = rough idle. Code went away one day only to come back and stay the next. Some light smoke on cold start-up.

- Changed coils around and reset, same code came up later.
- New tank of fuel (Super @ Chevron like usual)
- Seafoamed for a whole tank
- VCG has been changed including spark plug gaskets
- New plugs that worked fine for 2k and look clean
- P0155 O2 Sensor already changed
- MAF cleaned
- Camshaft Positioning Sensor changed
- New Fuel filter
- No mayo/ snot in the oil
- Oil changed 2k ago, synthetic
- Oil came up about 1/2 qt low signaled by yellow light a few days ago, filled now

Car has not been sitting.

I am thinking the CCV (oil separator) but it was quoted at dealership $ 520... I simply cannot do this one myself. Have not found any indie garages near Orlando (South).

Does the CCV seem like the next logical step?

Are there any other cheaper options?

Thanks...
 

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I had a similar problem with the radiator and bought new radiator cap for $13 and that solved the problem. The BMW radiator tank needs a consistant pressure and over time as the radiator cap get old it allows that pressure to be lost which results in leaks and other problems.

Try it. If it doesn't solve your problems no harm no foul coz' you probable need a new cap anyway.
 

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Ah you have another problem. Misfiring. This is most likely an air intake issue which is a common problem in the BMW. Judging from the year of car I'm guesing there are alot of miles on the car, well the rubber air intake hose wear down over time and get tiny or big cracks. Check out your air intake upper and lower boots and if they are worn replace them, the crack are sometime very hard to see so better to replace.

Replacing these boots are a good DIY. The lower one is a bear to change out. While you in the area there are a few other parts you would want to clean out but I forgot their names. But if you press me I can look them up.

Another thing you'll probable need to change is your fuel filter - though this is not causing the misfire - a leak in the air intake is causing that. As far as changing the CCV wait until you replace your upper and lower air intake boots (hoses) and clean out the other 2 parts that I cannot remember the names of as I write this. This may have your car purring again and you can change your CCV later. It doesn't do you any good to change your CCV if you have not replaced your air intake boots.

Also there is a plactic tube type hose that connected to valve cover and the other end connects CCV, This tube may have been disturbed during maintenance and may be cracked is so it will most definately cause rought idling. You will probable need some links with pictures which I can send you later if you'd like.
 

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I get the low coolant light periodically and have had it pressure tested at BMW. I still get the light periodically. Car never overheats or anything though. I just keep some BMW coolant mix in my trunk and add periodically. I have no idea why or how it happens. As far as the SES lights and your rough cold starts, I had that problem for a long time and after checking my intake hoses for cracks, getting a new oil separator, changing plugs and air filter.....what finally fixed it, WAS CLEANING THE IDLE CONTROL VALVE. I have not had a rough idle or SES light since. And yes, it would give me the same codes..misfires on different cylinders.
 

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The low coolant probably means you just need to bleed the system again (if your sure it's not leaking). Raise the front end, ignition to position 2, engine not running, heat to highest setting, fan on lowest setting, open bleeder screw and add coolant mixture until no air comes out of screw. Close everything up, drive for an hour or so, let it totally cool, then top off if necessary.

As was stated above, clean the ICV and check the intake boots carefully for cracks before deciding on CCV.
 

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Oh yes, those are the parts to inspect and clean DISA and ICV. There are good DIY instructions on line for cleaning these. Handle DISA very carefully it is an expensive part to replace. When you take off the air intake boots the DISA and ICV will be accessable so it's a good time to check them out and clean them out.

The boots should cost you less then $100 for both and there is also a re-enforcement ring that you will need as well - this connects the upper and lower boots together.

Brake or carb cleaner for ICV, seaform will work well on DISA. cheapest way to go is to do this work yourself.

When I replaced my air intake boots I had to cut off the lower boot with a steak knife in order to access the clamp holder screws. If you do this just be very careful not to disturb the smaller hoses underneath.

Since you are only getting one misfire code this leads me to believe that is maybe a return valve or hose (tube) connected to the valve cover. That hose is so fragile when it becomes old. So simply taking it off the valve cover to access the spark plugs may have cracked the hose (tube).

And of course clean your air intake sensor with a spray cleaner made for that purpose. Be careful with this part too it could set you back $200 for the part if you damage it.
 

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Oh other cheap areas to fix - there is a little rubber tube connected to the upper air intake boot that rubber tube and a rubber adapter on it that gets cracked It pennies to replace this - replace this while you under the hood a crack in that rubber piece can cause idling problems too.

You basically want to seal up all air leaks starting with the cheapest and moving up the list from there.

These days when I have to go into the engine for do any maintenance I'm super careful not to disturb hoses, electrical connections and other parts not directly related to the maintenance job I'm doing. I in the past have created more problems then I fixed when I wasn't aware of how fragile some of the rubber and plastic was.

Also look up how to test for air leaks. If you are on a tight budget (who isn't these days) then you don't want to spend money on parts that are not causing the problem. The air leak test is easy to do your self.
 

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I am thinking the CCV (oil separator)
Why not just test the CCV?
- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1)


Does the CCV seem like the next logical step?
Why not just follow the standard misfire diagnostic tree?
- How to diagnose a BMW engine misfire (1)

Check out your air intake upper and lower boots
For a list of all hoses, endcaps, tubes, pipes, o-rings, and gaskets which 'can' cause a vacuum leak, see these threads:

- How to locate all problematic (between 1/8" & 9/32" ID) 3.5x1.8mm, 3.3x1.8mm & (between 17/64" & 9/32" ID) 7mm ID vacuum tubing (single material), vacuum hoses (multiple material), 3.3mm OD curved vacuum pipes (rigid tubes), 3.5mm & 7mm ID vacuum endcaps (closed end) & 7x3mm manifold o-rings (1) & 7.52X3.52mm and 9.2X2.8mm fuel injection o-rings (1) & gaskets (1) on the M54 engine & where in the USA to get new vacuum tubing & vacuum caps (1) & what SAE sizes to get for all the metric M54 engine vacuum tubes, hoses, pipes, and caps (1) & correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1) & finding the ends of hard-to-locate vacuum tubes (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to build a $30 smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks (1)

While you in the area there are a few other parts you would want to clean out but I forgot their names.
Here is a list sufficient for the M54:
- Maintenance checklist of filters and components to be periodically checked & cleaned (1)

you'll probable need to change is your fuel filter
Autozone will lend you for 90 days a fuel system tester, for free:
- Where is the fuel system pressure test Schrader valve for the I6 (1)

You will probable need some links with pictures
Every link I proposed above is chock full of pictures.

look up how to test for air leaks.
This thread may be useful:
- How to make/borrow/buy lean-condition-misfire test tools (smoke, vacuum, & pressure)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay, two days and about 10 starts later, no SES, no smoke, no roughness... all after replacing the monstrous CCV. And I'm waiting on a new temp sensor as I can see it leaking coolant. Is it possible there is light at the tunnel?
 
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