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Discussion Starter #1
So, I thought I would pose this question to the knowledgeable group here. I've purchased a lift for my garage, an Atlas Kwik Bay 7000 (e61 ownership drove me to this):

https://www.atlasautoequipment.com/products/lifts/scissor-lifts/kwik-bay-7000

I've got in installed, and it isn't raising evenly. I believe this is because the hydraulic system needs to be bled. The fluid in the reservoir is filled with bubbles after I run the lift, but after it sits for while all the bubbles work their way out. The manual that came with this thing is *terrible*, and doesn't even tell me where the bleed valves are. I've watched videos of how to bleed similar pieces of equipment, and they open bleed valves at the ends of the cylinders when the lift is extended, but there aren't any valves on the ends of the hydraulic cylinders, just nipples for greasing. I've reached out to the mfgr for support, but haven't heard back. Does anyone here have experience with something like this? The reservoir is the high point in the system, so air should eventually make its way there, but I don't see it all coming out. I have tightened all the hydraulic connections and used thread sealer on them to prevent leakage and air infiltration. Any assistance is welcomed!

Ed
 

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Those bubbles

In the reservoir are the bubbles working themselves out. I believe the procedure is to get some weight on the lift and run it multiple times until there are no more bubbles in the tank and only then adjust the arms height (if there are adjustments on the cables)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In the reservoir are the bubbles working themselves out. I believe the procedure is to get some weight on the lift and run it multiple times until there are no more bubbles in the tank and only then adjust the arms height (if there are adjustments on the cables)
That seems to be the case. After I posted this, I ran it again and checked the reservoir afterwards, and it was pretty clear, so it is moving in the right direction. There don't appear to be any adjustments on the cylinders (there are no cables). When I start the unit, the left side starts rising just a tad before the left, and that carries through operations. At height, the difference isn't more than 1/4-12", and since the unit allows me to drop it down onto the safety latches, as long as those are even, functionally it is fine, I guess
 

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hydraulic systems are self bleeding.. run the equipment thur its full set of travel and all the air will work its self thru the return
 

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Nah, this one doesn't. But, I think we're good.
Yeah looks pretty level to me!

Welcome to the “civilized” world. ;)

It definitely looks like it’ll get you higher than the Quickjack. How much did it run if you don’t mind my asking? I’m assuming anchor bolts set into the concrete with a new footing for them?

Sent from space
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It gets 39" of lift. It is "portable," though a pain to move. All you need is a flat concrete floor of reasonable depth. Mine is 4" thick. $2800, then another $100 parts and fluid to get it all working. I put two bolts in it to keep it from sliding across the floor when I drive onto it, which seems to be an issue cause of the incline into my garage.
 

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Newbeamx3, you were right one. The vendor never got back to me, but it seems to have gotten much better after running it a few more times, and with a load on it.

It's pretty sweet! Can't wait for something to break? Lol.

Glad its sorted. I wish I had a garage to work in let alone car lifting apparatus of that magnitude.

Like my dad used to say, "someday my prince will come" (a Cinderella quote) and I'll have myself a garage and a lift...

enjoy it.
 

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It gets 39" of lift. It is "portable," though a pain to move. All you need is a flat concrete floor of reasonable depth. Mine is 4" thick. $2800, then another $100 parts and fluid to get it all working. I put two bolts in it to keep it from sliding across the floor when I drive onto it, which seems to be an issue cause of the incline into my garage.
Definitely lifts more than mine! Mine goes like 24"... but that's ok because anything more and I wouldn't be able to reach what I was working on when underneath the car. Mine's proved invaluable, so I hope you see the same with yours! Back in the Spring I installed headers and made my own exhaust which I wouldn't have been able to do without the lift, and now with the E21, it's too low to work on other than in the air. The current lift height is perfect for me to be able to reach what I'm working on from underneath.

IMG_7501.JPG

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IMG_6420.jpg

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks good duke. I went back and forth between different models, and yours was one I looked at. I ended up going with the atlas because one, I'd used one before at a friend's place and was smitten, and two, it can stay up at any height, and has safety locks every inch or two, even though yours is much more portable. Regardless of model though, the ease and safety of lifting with a lift is something I wish I'd invested in years ago.
 

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Looks good duke. I went back and forth between different models, and yours was one I looked at. I ended up going with the atlas because one, I'd used one before at a friend's place and was smitten, and two, it can stay up at any height, and has safety locks every inch or two, even though yours is much more portable. Regardless of model though, the ease and safety of lifting with a lift is something I wish I'd invested in years ago.

Thanks man. Yeah mine only locks at two specific places, half way and full so it definitely lacks the specificity that yours does. All good though, both have trade offs, all depends on what you’re looking for. Mine was only a grand, and I’m a cheap f*ck. Totally agree on the ease and safety aspects of these things letting them pay for themselves the first time out; like i said earlier, I couldn’t have done the work I did on the 442 without the lift, just impossible to get that car up high enough, same with the E21. Much like the first time buying an impact or press, “how’d I ever live without this??”


Sent from space
 

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/QUOTE]



seeing that cutty made me miss my 1980 that had a 383 CI with EFI on it. Man the giggles that car gave you when you smashed the throttle....

Ahem, that’s a genuine 442 model with a SBO, not some garden variety Chebby transplant.

Thanks I love the machine, owned it for 21 years and counting. It’ll be the last car I ever own. I was planning on stroking the 350 SBO with an offset crank (374 is common in Olds world) and swapping to the set of higher compression 7A heads on my shelf (currently has 8A heads), but the E21 is currently occupying my time and space. It’s no EFI 383, but with the low end Olds torque it’s still damn fun every time I get into the throttle.


Sent from space
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks man. Yeah mine only locks at two specific places, half way and full so it definitely lacks the specificity that yours does. All good though, both have trade offs, all depends on what you’re looking for. Mine was only a grand, and I’m a cheap f*ck. Totally agree on the ease and safety aspects of these things letting them pay for themselves the first time out; like i said earlier, I couldn’t have done the work I did on the 442 without the lift, just impossible to get that car up high enough, same with the E21. Much like the first time buying an impact or press, “how’d I ever live without this??”


Sent from space
I'm about to embark on my first big job with it. I'm pretty sure the seal between the oil pan and front diff is what is leaking, so it will be quite nice to have the room to maneuver.
 

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I'm about to embark on my first big job with it. I'm pretty sure the seal between the oil pan and front diff is what is leaking, so it will be quite nice to have the room to maneuver.

I humbly suggest you replace the input and both output shaft seals on the diff while it’s off.

And if you subscribe to project creep, may as well change both the wishbones (that you need to disconnect from only the subframe in order to swing the strut assembly to pull the axles), along with tension strut bushings and ball joints. Don’t forget new axle nuts (they are peened over to lock them).


Sent from space
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I humbly suggest you replace the input and both output shaft seals on the diff while it’s off.

And if you subscribe to project creep, may as well change both the wishbones (that you need to disconnect from only the subframe in order to swing the strut assembly to pull the axles), along with tension strut bushings and ball joints. Don’t forget new axle nuts (they are peened over to lock them).


Sent from space
Yeah, I'll replace all those seals when it's off.

I'm still running original suspension components on this vehicle, surprisingly. I'm not averse to scope creep on this, especially since I'm already taking things apart, but the vehicle has 185k on it, and it is a forest and backup vehicle, primarily.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Definitely. I can't believe they haven't yet pissed the purple fluid on the ground yet.
 
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