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Ok, I've been through the manual forwards and backwards and I can't find the oil capacity. Anyone know how much oil is required for a change? I don't want to go 8000 miles for it's first oil change.
 

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Well I changed the oil (no filter) and it appears to be right at 7 quarts. I cant believe they dont put this kind of info in the manual.
 

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As far as BMW is concerned, you're not suppose to change the oil yourself... only the dealer.
Yes, for sure. A concerted effort to intimidate owners into 'dealer only maintenance'.

Any thoughts on the first oil change interval? 1500? 2500?

A

PS Only oil Approved is the CASTROL SLX Low Ash from the BMW dealer... there are other threads on this...
 

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Yes, for sure. A concerted effort to intimidate owners into 'dealer only maintenance'.

Any thoughts on the first oil change interval? 1500? 2500?

A

PS Only oil Approved is the CASTROL SLX Low Ash from the BMW dealer... there are other threads on this...
Well, I don't wish to star yet another oil/break-in debate (although this probably will), so I'll just say that my personal opinion is that the first oil change should be 1,500 miles or thereabouts.

If others personal opinion is that 15,000 miles is great for the first change, then that's fine for them.
 

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Well, I don't wish to star yet another oil/break-in debate (although this probably will), so I'll just say that my personal opinion is that the first oil change should be 1,500 miles or thereabouts.

If others personal opinion is that 15,000 miles is great for the first change, then that's fine for them.
We're on the same page.

(For some reason I don't see you as the "BMW says the ATF can go 100,000 miles so I'm doing that because they know best" type.)

A
 

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why do it yourself... oil change is free at the dealer for 4 years, right?
Oh boy, here we go. :thumbup:

1. The maintenance BMW 'recommends' is woefully inadequate. Oil cannot go 15k miles and still give the same protection. It is laughable that they claim the ATF can go 'forever'...when pressed, they might say 100k- or just after any possible free maintenance or extended warranty would end.

2. I can change my oil faster- MUCH faster- than going to the dealer. I can take 2-3 hours and piss it away in the waiting room, or shuttling to and fro- or getting a loaner car and driving...or I can change oil myself in 15 minutes.

3. I'll let them do their free ones- don't want to risk the warranty- but I'll do the in between ones, and the transmission fluid myself.
 

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Oh boy, here we go. :thumbup:

1. The maintenance BMW 'recommends' is woefully inadequate. Oil cannot go 15k miles and still give the same protection. It is laughable that they claim the ATF can go 'forever'...when pressed, they might say 100k- or just after any possible free maintenance or extended warranty would end.

2. I can change my oil faster- MUCH faster- than going to the dealer. I can take 2-3 hours and piss it away in the waiting room, or shuttling to and fro- or getting a loaner car and driving...or I can change oil myself in 15 minutes.

3. I'll let them do their free ones- don't want to risk the warranty- but I'll do the in between ones, and the transmission fluid myself.
^^^ I agree, Im the same way.... as for shutting idiot lights off. Are there aftermarket alternatives (obd2 scanners, pc software etc.) or we have to use the $100K interfaces the dealer has.
 

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^^^ I agree, Im the same way.... as for shutting idiot lights off. Are there aftermarket alternatives (obd2 scanners, pc software etc.) or we have to use the $100K interfaces the dealer has.
http://peakeresearch.com/fcx3.htm

I use the Peake fcxII for the M5... it is the best tool, other than the GT1-type system.

Although the one they offer is for the older diesel, I am pretty sure they will have one for the 2007+ in the next year or so.

Personally, I don't need to reset anything until after the warranty- although I really would like to know an codes BEFORE I take it to the dealer...

A
 

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Five is Right Out!
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I personally don't see a problem with waiting till the reminder tells to change it for the first one. We waited till 7k miles with our civic with no problems.

As Penguin pointed out in another thread--production tolerances are closer now than they have ever been.

But just to be on the safe side I will run a used oil analysis at 1300miles or so and see what it looks like. If it's ok then I will run more periodically.

Also, doing it yourself could be risky as far as the warranty goes. Not that you would do anything wrong but if they wanted to they could use it against you if something happened to you such as Jerry's case.:eek:

Doesn't Moss-Magnussen support this? If they require you to use X product or Y service and no other, they have to provide it free of charge--which they do. Some will argue the oil interval is too long, maybe so. I'm betting a UOA will carry the burden of truth.:D
 

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Five is Right Out!
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Well I changed the oil (no filter) and it appears to be right at 7 quarts. I cant believe they dont put this kind of info in the manual.
Was there a reason you didn't change the filter? I would think if you were trying to eliminate particulate matter ie metal shavings created by break-in you would do the filter as well.
 

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We ticked over 3,000 miles on our 35d recently. The dip stick says the engine is 1/2 Qt low. Of course, the iDrive says the oil is "OK" and BTW I may need to do something about the oil in 8,000 more miles - DUH.

So taking all that expert electronic advise into account, I'll be changing the oil and filter as soon as I can get to the dealer to buy both :)

Funf Dreisig
 

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Five is Right Out!
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We ticked over 3,000 miles on our 35d recently. The dip stick says the engine is 1/2 Qt low. Of course, the iDrive says the oil is "OK" and BTW I may need to do something about the oil in 8,000 more miles - DUH.

So taking all that expert electronic advise into account, I'll be changing the oil and filter as soon as I can get to the dealer to buy both :)

Funf Dreisig
What does the oil on your dipstick look like? Not that it is the final word on oil quality but it will give an idea as to the soot levels in the oil.
 

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Is it a very opaque black or clearish?
Kind of a medium to dark but somewhat clearish black.

Maybe more of a very deep greyish black, with dark highlights of black...but clearing too.

:)

I'll run a UOA on my change. Should tell about all you can short of taste!

A
 

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Is it a very opaque black or clearish?
Unlike Ard, I'm not a true connoisseur of oil. But I know what I like when I see it :)

Seriously, The dip stick doesn't hold enough oil to make a detailed call. But I'd say it was not very opaque even though the white Bounty paper towel gets pretty black when wiping off the dip stick.

I'll post back after I change the oil and cut open the filter.

FWIW my original plan was to change the oil & filter at a dealer sponsored tech session that was to be held next week. Unfortunately, that session has now been canceled. So I'm on my own to figure out just how much oil is required when the filter is changed. I'm guessing about 8 quarts; so I'll just go slow and top it up using that wonderfully low tech device -- the dip stick :)

Funf Dreisig
 
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