Yes, for sure. A concerted effort to intimidate owners into 'dealer only maintenance'.As far as BMW is concerned, you're not suppose to change the oil yourself... only the dealer.
Well, I don't wish to star yet another oil/break-in debate (although this probably will), so I'll just say that my personal opinion is that the first oil change should be 1,500 miles or thereabouts.Yes, for sure. A concerted effort to intimidate owners into 'dealer only maintenance'.
Any thoughts on the first oil change interval? 1500? 2500?
PS Only oil Approved is the CASTROL SLX Low Ash from the BMW dealer... there are other threads on this...
We're on the same page.Well, I don't wish to star yet another oil/break-in debate (although this probably will), so I'll just say that my personal opinion is that the first oil change should be 1,500 miles or thereabouts.
If others personal opinion is that 15,000 miles is great for the first change, then that's fine for them.
Oh boy, here we go. :thumbup:why do it yourself... oil change is free at the dealer for 4 years, right?
^^^ I agree, Im the same way.... as for shutting idiot lights off. Are there aftermarket alternatives (obd2 scanners, pc software etc.) or we have to use the $100K interfaces the dealer has.Oh boy, here we go. :thumbup:
1. The maintenance BMW 'recommends' is woefully inadequate. Oil cannot go 15k miles and still give the same protection. It is laughable that they claim the ATF can go 'forever'...when pressed, they might say 100k- or just after any possible free maintenance or extended warranty would end.
2. I can change my oil faster- MUCH faster- than going to the dealer. I can take 2-3 hours and piss it away in the waiting room, or shuttling to and fro- or getting a loaner car and driving...or I can change oil myself in 15 minutes.
3. I'll let them do their free ones- don't want to risk the warranty- but I'll do the in between ones, and the transmission fluid myself.
http://peakeresearch.com/fcx3.htm^^^ I agree, Im the same way.... as for shutting idiot lights off. Are there aftermarket alternatives (obd2 scanners, pc software etc.) or we have to use the $100K interfaces the dealer has.
Was there a reason you didn't change the filter? I would think if you were trying to eliminate particulate matter ie metal shavings created by break-in you would do the filter as well.Well I changed the oil (no filter) and it appears to be right at 7 quarts. I cant believe they dont put this kind of info in the manual.
What does the oil on your dipstick look like? Not that it is the final word on oil quality but it will give an idea as to the soot levels in the oil.We ticked over 3,000 miles on our 35d recently. The dip stick says the engine is 1/2 Qt low. Of course, the iDrive says the oil is "OK" and BTW I may need to do something about the oil in 8,000 more miles - DUH.
So taking all that expert electronic advise into account, I'll be changing the oil and filter as soon as I can get to the dealer to buy both
Unlike Ard, I'm not a true connoisseur of oil. But I know what I like when I see itIs it a very opaque black or clearish?