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Discussion Starter #1
So I changed my BMW X5 E70 35D Diesel oil today. Did everything by the book but found out that the one who did the oil change previously over tightened my drain plug :-( So I installed the old drain plug with a new copper o-ring that came with the oil filter but the plug just kept on turning below 20nm torque It does not want to tighten up, it just keeps on turning. Hence, the plug is currently leaking a few drips every 10mins.

May I get suggestions on how to deal with this temporarily? Don't want to waste good oil so I'll wait for a more permanent solution on my next oil change. I dont want to change the oil pan yet. Too expensive. So temporarily, Do I...

1. Apply gasket on the drain plug? What gasket do I buy? I'm thinking one of those plumbing stop leak fix. Will that do the trick?

2. Buy those oversized oil drain plugs that makes new threads? What kind do I buy for my vehicle? Does this work? Is there one for BMW?

3. Do I re-thread the hole?

Any of you dealt with this problem? Hope you can share your experience and suggestions please. TIA!
 

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Have a look at this post:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12612880&postcount=8

Same thing happened to me. BMW last free oil change the BMW mechanic cross threaded the oil drain bolt. I find that 12 months later.

You need the right size one of these:
https://www.belmetric.com/drain-plug-kits-inserts-c-217_219/?zenid=a683b5h5nqq717toaadgtfefq3

The kit comes with all the parts you need. As I recall it was about $100. You end up drill the hole wider, then tapping it. Then you put some special Loctitie the sell on the thin-wall insert and thread it in. Then you secure the insert in place with another tool. Every time I did something that could have resulted in metal shavings, I had my assistant pouring oil into the engine so it was running out while I slowly did the operation (drilling and tapping).

It's been in for years now and no problems.

They also make things like this for emergency use. I wouldn't use this long term. This is just one I found quickly, there are any number of similar ones.
https://www.coolcatcorp.com/product/Rescueplug.html
 

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Looking at Realoem.com, it looks like the drain bolt on the 35D is the same as the 2009 X5 3.0i.

This is what I ordered:
1 x TS1215C - M12X1.5 DP KIT (TS1215C)
1 x TS6020 - LOCTITE 266 (TS6020)
 

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And, I think I changed the oil after a few days of driving just to be on the safe side.
 

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So now dealers can't even do an oil change right? Was getting my first dealer oil change next week since it was already there for recall work. Dang, something else to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Tnx

@twh Thanks so much for that twh! Will study that option seriously!

@cvgtpcq - its not actually a delarer but a certified BMW service center. I remember seeing some leak on the drain plug after their last oil change and brought it back to them. They fixed it but didn't know they broke it! Leaves me to the saying...if you want something done right...do it yourself!

So here's my super temporary fix. Dont judge me guys! :) i decided to temporarily stop the leak so that I dont waste the oil and also mess up my garage floor so I used an epoxy steel clay putty. Its a moldable clay that hardens after 30 mins and cures 100% after 24 hours. I will have to dremmel this on my next oil change. No problem actually because from now on, I'll DIY my oil change. No leaks after 15 hours sitting in the garage!

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To reiterate guys, this is a temporary solution. Will study the options twh suggested and might execute on my next oil change. Will have to order the parts first and get ready to do the operation. Thanks again!
 

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I would not have gone this route, but I see what you did -- epoxy repair putty around the bolt itself. Just don't let the epoxy putty metal dust get into the oil pan.
 

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On the 35d with dipstick oil changes are easy from above using a pela extractor.
Run the engine warm or hot. Shut down and wait 5 mins then extract.

I get out the same amount of oil from when I used the pan...

And for those who say the pump doesn't get sludge out... In my TDI, which I was using the extractor for 12 years, I had to drop the pan to fix a gasket leak and there was no sludge at all. The key is to run the engine hot, mix up the oil and then extract afterwards.
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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^^^^ +1
 

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why not drain the oil into a clean catch and just get a new drain plug....the plug could be shot and the pan still good. I use an extractor on my e46 m3 and its great.
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Discussion Starter #13
I would not have gone this route, but I see what you did -- epoxy repair putty around the bolt itself. Just don't let the epoxy putty metal dust get into the oil pan.
Thanks TWH. I'm assuming dust wont sip in the oil pan since the force of the oil is outward right? Or does the oil drain hole suck air inward as well?

May I ask more about the fix (link) you posted earlier. What size do I need, there are many choices. It's kinda scary to drill accurately while you're on your back. Also worried with the metal shavings. I'm really contemplating on just changing the entire oil pan, the gaskets, drain plug and all on my next oil change. Can I DIY this? I'm thinking if the shop messed up my drain plug, they might mess up my oil pan as well :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
@robnitro, 1bad540 - thanks guys, where do I stick the pela extractor? I assume on top where you pour your oil in right? Will the hose go through and through straight to the oil pan or do you navigate through gears and stuff? I think extracting oil from the top is really best so that we don't mess up the oil drain plug and we also don't have to raise the vehicle on stands and ramps.

@Doug_Huffman - thanks! What do you mean by "pan threads are pulled"?

@ard - thanks man! Luckily after an hour drive to work...no visible leaks....yet.

BTW, After the 1 hour drive, I checked my iDrive oil level indicator which previously indicated the oil at max level, it now shows a centimeter down from the max line so do I top up to get it back to max level? I put in 7.5 liters already (or 7.92 quarts)? I will check the dipstick later when I get home.
 

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You extract from the dip stick tube. The pela comes with a long tube that fits inside.
You can also suck out some oil from the oil filter housing by sticking it down the holes in there, but it's not much extra.
 

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Thanks TWH. I'm assuming dust wont sip in the oil pan since the force of the oil is outward right? Or does the oil drain hole suck air inward as well?

May I ask more about the fix (link) you posted earlier. What size do I need, there are many choices. It's kinda scary to drill accurately while you're on your back. Also worried with the metal shavings. I'm really contemplating on just changing the entire oil pan, the gaskets, drain plug and all on my next oil change. Can I DIY this? I'm thinking if the shop messed up my drain plug, they might mess up my oil pan as well :mad:
If you just want to forget the repair altogether and extract the oil through the dip stick, then you really have nothing to do.

If you want to fix the drain plug, you can do what I did or replace the oil pan. Replacing the oil pan will be a lot of work and cost a lot of money.

If you go the route I did, you can DIY this if you have the skills. I don't know your skill level, so I can't say, I can only tell you what I did.

The part you need I listed a few posts back:
1 x TS1215C - M12X1.5 DP KIT (TS1215C)
1 x TS6020 - LOCTITE 266 (TS6020)

According to Realoem.com, your oil pan has the same oil drain plug as my wife's 2009 X5 3.0i N52 engine, so those are the parts you need.

More detail on how I went about this...

I used no power tools drilling the hole bigger. I used a tap handle (also called a t-handle) to hold the drill bit and I drilled it slowly and by hand. I had the car up on four jack-stands and laid on my back under the car. I asked my assistant to tell me if I was perpendicular to the oil pan as I was drilling. I put some grease on the drill bit to catch any shavings. My assistant was also slowly pouring oil into the oil fill on top of the engine while I was drilling. The oil was coming out the whole time I was drilling. I had a catch pan underneath and got oil all over my arm. These two things were my protection against aluminum shavings getting into the oil pan. As I turned the tap handle, I would withdraw the bit and clean it off and reinsert it and drill a bit more.

Now the hole is bigger and you need to tap the hole. Same deal. Used the tap handle. Tapped by hand. Had my assistant make sure I started perpendicular. Assistant also slowly pouring in oil. Grease on the tap. A few turns and withdraw and the reinsert and do a few more.

Last step of preparing the hole is to notch the entry of the hole for the shoulder of the Time-Sert. There is a bit in the kit for that also. I didn't notch mine enough and the shoulder stuck out a bit. Make sure you notch the hole deep enough. I filled it down to match the surface of the oil pan. I had something jammed up the oil drain plug hole to keep any metal shavings from entering.

Now you have to get everything dry from oil. Since you've had you assistant pouring oil in, there is oil dripping out. I let the car sit until the next day. Used brake cleaner to clean out the oil from the tapped hole. Use the special Loctite in the parts list on the Time-Sert. Thread the Time-Sert into the hole. Now use the special Time-Sert setting tool to set the last threads of the Time-Sert. The last few threads are not fully formed. When you use the setting tool, it is pushing the last few threads outward and that mechanically sets the Time-Sert insert into place. Now it cannot come out. I probably waited another day so the Loctite was fully cured. Now pour some more oil and have it come out.

Get a new BMW oil drain bolt. It will fit right in there.

Get some inexpensive oil. Fill up the car. Drive it for a couple days. Change the oil and filter and put in the normal stuff. Change the oil and filter in a few months again (just insurance).

One more thing. Before I attempted this Time-Sert repair on my car, I took a scrap piece of aluminum I had laying around and did the entire Time-Sert process on that scrap piece. The kit comes with several inserts, so you can try this. That way, I was familiar with the process and didn't do it the first time on my car and mess something up. I would encourage that to anyone doing this for the first time.

I did this repair in December of 2013.
 

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the tap sounds like a good cheap alternative... how much is a new oil pan?
 

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the tap sounds like a good cheap alternative... how much is a new oil pan?
New oil pan is in the range of $750-$850. You also need various misc parts. Then there is the labor. Pretty sure the subframe has to be dropped. Gonna be very expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
@twh - Thanks so much for that very detailed description of the time insert. Hmmm...my skill level is around 6 or 7 on a scale of 10 and after reading your post I'm kinda skeptic on my abilities and patience as well. Will let this sit for a while and maybe sleep on it before I dive into any of the good solutions posted here. Again thank you this is very much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
New oil pan is in the range of $750-$850. You also need various misc parts. Then there is the labor. Pretty sure the subframe has to be dropped. Gonna be very expensive.
Checked with Pelican and oil pan is around $100-$120. Gasket at $33. I hope the DIY for this matches my skill :) Something to think about.
 
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