Make sure they replace both differential orings as there is no additional labor in doing so.
Now would be a good time to consider thrust rod bushings which does carry some labor but you should be able to negotiate a discount on it since your doing the oil pan. You’ve already moistened the SAs mouth so he’s primed to take another sip even at a “close to cost” price.
I would buy fresh oil as well if it’s not included as it has to be drained anyways. There should be no additional labor involved and again ask for a better “part price” on the 7Q of oil. It’s better for you and them as they don’t have to try and catch it and pour it back in.

 

Make sure they replace both differential orings as there is no additional labor in doing so.
Now would be a good time to consider thrust rod bushings which does carry some labor but you should be able to negotiate a discount on it since your doing the oil pan. You’ve already moistened the SAs mouth so he’s primed to take another sip even at a “close to cost” price.
I would buy fresh oil as well if it’s not included as it has to be drained anyways. There should be no additional labor involved and again ask for a better “part price” on the 7Q of oil. It’s better for you and them as they don’t have to try and catch it and pour it back in.

Thanks! by o-rings, do you mean the Axle seals (#6) in diagram (part#31-50-8-743-675)?

 

You could snug up the pan bolts in the factory pattern and see if that does anything for you.

 

Technically by BMW repair instructions any time an axle is removed ( which is necessary for oil pan ) those differential axle seals do need replaced. Some people chance it and skip them.
The orings are tiny black orings. One goes where the diff hangs on the oil pan and the other goes on the passenger side where the axle support bolts to the oil pan.

 

How about just clean things up FIRST and confirm where the leak is coming from after driving 100 miles or so rather than throw $2700 at something that may not be the problem?

 

Agree with this. No sense consenting to a repair unless the cause is confirmed.


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AVOID this dealer. $tealer will ALWAYS quote for a rear main gasket for labor $$$, even if they are unsure of actual leak..why? Because they are TOO lazy to diagnose properly, (dye)...FIND A INDY TO DIAG THE LEAKS....

 

AVOID this dealer. $tealer will ALWAYS quote for a rear main gasket for labor $$$

Most oil pan quotes DO NOT include a rear main. ALWAYS is a pretty specific word and I disagree fully with this statement. I do agree to find another dealer though if they are too lazy to properly diag.

 

Rear main seal is basically a completely different job. For the oil pan gasket, you must remove the axles and lower the front subframe. For the rear main seal, you must remove the transmission. There is virtually no overlap in the two jobs.

AM.

 

Consider doing independent BMW shop for opinion. Can search
https://www.bimrs.org/find-a-shop.html for BMW independent shop.
Found Jack’s Auto and Aero in Bainbridge, PA near me. They have been a Godsend. Also love the idea of crawling under the vehicle with 2-3 cans of brake clean, cleaning up all the oil, drive for a few days then recheck. Messy and a pain in the butt, however should be able to get a good idea where leak is coming from. Good luck.

 

If you end up doing pan, replace every single suspension part including sway bar links and sway bar bushings. Personally I would do struts and mounts too.


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