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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed my oil yesterday and the oil drain plug was not coming out. After some effort, I was able to remove it but the oil pan was stripped. :banghead:

Does anyone know how difficult it is to remove the oil pan?
I want to tap it and possibly use an ez-drain to prevent this from happening.

2001 M5

Any advice is appreciated!
 

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Freude am Fahren
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That's unusual. The plug was made of a softer material, so that it should strip instead of the pan, allowing you to just clean out the treads and put in a new plug. If that won't work you can get a "universal replacement" plug, that will work fine, if you are planning on using an oil extractor from now on.
 

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I changed my oil yesterday and the oil drain plug was not coming out. After some effort, I was able to remove it but the oil pan was stripped. :banghead:

Does anyone know how difficult it is to remove the oil pan?
I want to tap it and possibly use an ez-drain to prevent this from happening.

2001 M5

Any advice is appreciated!
Also happened to me on my 540 2 months ago. I wound up buying a new pan, gasket, plug and washer because I wanted to keep things as original. You can also Helicoil the pan (google search oh Helicoil).
 

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Same thing happend to me. We have an European autoshop that repaired my oil pan with what is known as a Heli-Coil Tap. Basically, they lock tight a piece in the hole and the piece has it's own drain plug. (This means the bolt is threaded in it's own shell and will never be touching your soft aluminum oil pan again. Which means your oil pan will not be stripping again)

If you use an oversized drain plug, eventually the aluminum will strip again and you'll be faced with a bigger problem.

The Heli-Coil Tap is the way to go.
 

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yorkie power
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This is a good time to replace that oil drain bolt with a Fumoto drain valve, no more worries about stripping the threads.:thumbup:
 

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I have in the past when needing to tap a hole in a sensitive area coated the tap with a heavy goop of vasoline. When the tap is going into the metal-the shavings are suspended in the vasoline and you can retreive them when the taps threaded out. You would do this a small bit at a time-clean the tap and reapply vasoline and go again. You would probally do this as many as 5 times before you got through to the other side of the oil pan with the tap-but you wouldn't have to take the pan off this way-just gotta be real carefull. You could then jack up the opposite side of the car the pan drains on and pour cheaper oil through the crank case to wash any residue that may be there out-in the old V8 blocks we did this on we used #2 desiel fuel or kerosene to do this. Then cheap oil and with the plug in the pan refilled with the cheap oil and when the plug was removed the draining would take care of any residue. You may find this useful or not--just noodleing.
 

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This is a good time to replace that oil drain bolt with a Fumoto drain valve, no more worries about stripping the threads.:thumbup:
The Fumoto drain valve sounds like an interested idea. Where can one buy it locally? I did a google search and didn't find a Fumoto drain valve for E39.
 

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yorkie power
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I have been using a fumoto oil drain valve in my '98 volvo for the past 5 years, and I am telling it's the way to go for easy oil changes. I bought the one with nipple and with a small piece of hose, old oil is collected directly into an empty milk container. You never have to worry about stripped threads.

I'll probably get one for the bimmer and put it on at the next oil change, which is still 3K miles away.
 

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Freude am Fahren
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If you use an oil extractor like the MityVac, you don't even have to get under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the advice. Gotta look into fumoto and mityvac.

If using an oil extractor...aren't you concerned you might not be getting the sludge in the bottom of the pan?
 

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+1 mityvac
 

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Freude am Fahren
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I tried it on both my car and my wife's. After sucking as much oil as I could get w/ the MityVac, I pulled the drain plug, and couldn't get even one more drop of oil out of the car. It seemed to get oil that was below the bottom edge of the drain plug. The secret to getting everthing is to do it after the engine has been run a bit, so that the oil is warm.
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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I did a google search and didn't find a Fumoto drain valve for E39.
The Fumoto drain valve seems like a good idea if it fits the E39.

Here, for the record, are other solutions to a stripped oil pan or broken drain bolt.

Here is the search result for broken oil pan drain bolts:
- How not to change your oil in your E39 (stripped drain plug)
- Broke the plug....
- Oil Plug Stripped! Now What ??
- URGENT: engine oil drain plug broke
- Broken oil plug & Broken oil plug!:banghead:
- I Literally Want to Cry....
- Broken Oil Plug 0n E39 1998
- Magnetic oil drain bolt broke in half

Here is the search result for stripped oil pan threads:
- Drain plug / oil pan stripped on 2.8 Z3
- oil plug bad
- '92 325i-- oil drail plug stripped HEEEELP!
- Oil pan stripped (use level sensor as a drain plug)
- Oil pan stripped (weld plate over hole)

Here is a good cn90 DIY on changing your oil the gravity feed way:
- DIY: E39 Changing engine oil made simple

And, read this BEFORE you select a vacuum extractor:
- DIY - BMW E39 Oil & Filter Change (vacuum extraction method)
- Why I don't recommend the Motive Vacuum Oil Extractor ...

Note the bevy of potential solutions:
- Use a 6mm wide screwdriver to spin the broken half out
- Use an EX-4 screw extractor (aka easy out) to spin the broken half out <-- recommended
- Reverse drill the steel broken half out of the aluminum oil pan
- Retap the stripped threads in the aluminum oil pan (but generally the bolt breaks before the threads strip)
- Wrap teflon tape on the threads of a new bolt and screw it in abutting the broken bolt half
- Heli-coil the stripped threads in the aluminum oil pan
- Drop the E39 V8 il pan to access the bolt if it fell through (dropping the E39 I6 oil pan is a nightmare)
- Weld over the hole and use the MightyVac oil extractor from the dipstick forever more
- Weld over the hole and use the oil level sensor as the drain plug instead
- Access the broken bolt inside the oil pan through the leveling sensor opening
- Buy an aftermarket oil drain bolt (e.g., EAS Tuning magnetic bolt, or Fumoto drain valve)
- Some people even bought a new oil pan!

 
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