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M3rKn
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1986 325ES

The service light on the cluster comes on, but does not stay on all the time.

It will usually come on after the engine is warmed up it seems, because it does not illuminate when it is cold.

Also when it begins to light up it stutters at first. Kind of how the battery light comes on when the rpms are low (my car is stick shift). If you drive a standard you know what Im talking about.

Once it has been driven for a while the light illuminates as you would expect it to, but only under 800 or 900 rpm. Once I throttle or bring the rpms above the 900 mark the light goes out, and stays out until it drops below again.

After it is warmed up the service light will stay lit when its is idling smoothly (at 600 rpm).

This started the day after I performed a routine oil change so I am a bit confused as to what is going on.

If anyone has had a similar experience please lend your knowledge.
 

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Registered
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109 Posts
I have a 1986 325ES

The service light on the cluster comes on, but does not stay on all the time.

It will usually come on after the engine is warmed up it seems, because it does not illuminate when it is cold.

Also when it begins to light up it stutters at first. Kind of how the battery light comes on when the rpms are low (my car is stick shift). If you drive a standard you know what Im talking about.

Once it has been driven for a while the light illuminates as you would expect it to, but only under 800 or 900 rpm. Once I throttle or bring the rpms above the 900 mark the light goes out, and stays out until it drops below again.

After it is warmed up the service light will stay lit when its is idling smoothly (at 600 rpm).

This started the day after I performed a routine oil change so I am a bit confused as to what is going on.

If anyone has had a similar experience please lend your knowledge.
What oil did you use? And you might just have to reset the thing, as it dosent manually reset itself.
 

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E30's,Work,Eat,Sleep
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159 Posts
Google e30 oil light reset. All you have to do is stick a piece if wire into to points in the diagnoses port in your engine bay. Turn the ignition on 3 times or so and it will go out.
 

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Registered
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106 Posts
Nvm try this one



Like I said take a wire put the wire into the two red holes on ur reset plug make sure it's connected turn the key to acc and watch the oil service light turn green and rest and viola reset and now more stupid oil service light
 

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M3rKn
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, when I got the timing belt replaced I took it to the shop. They did the oil change since it was due for one. I noticed afterward on the invoice they used 20w50. I didn't notice any difference in performance. I know there is a small leak so maybe using a heavier weight can be beneficial. Now that I think of it Im not even sure if I am doing any harm by switching oil grades or not, but I doubt it. Its not like Im mixing different wights together at the same time.
 

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livin large
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7,557 Posts
Yeah, when I got the timing belt replaced I took it to the shop. They did the oil change since it was due for one. I noticed afterward on the invoice they used 20w50. I didn't notice any difference in performance. I know there is a small leak so maybe using a heavier weight can be beneficial. Now that I think of it Im not even sure if I am doing any harm by switching oil grades or not, but I doubt it. Its not like Im mixing different wights together at the same time.
the only real thing you might notice is a bit more noise from the rockers. and ive been mixing weights for a few months now on my car. only cause i have a whole bunch of half quarts of 10w40 and 20w50 for my subby. as long as you use the same type of oil (patrol base, blend, synthetic) youre fine.
 
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