The CV is already damaged. Gaiter replacement requires disassembling the CV joint. Replace the half-shaft.

 

I haven't done one on an E70 yet, but it should be quite similar to this procedure on an E53. As long as you've caught it before losing too much grease or getting dirt ingestion, your joints should be fine. They're quite robust. Clean thoroughly before applying new grease. Note that there is a lot of misinformation out there regarding CV grease. Outer rzeppa joints require a moly-fortified grease, while inner tripod joints generally use a polyurea-based lighter viscosity grease. Many aftermarket inner boots will come with the wrong grease (moly-fortified) which will shorten the life of the joint.

CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES - Xoutpost.com

AM.

 

“Before losing too much.” There’s never time to do it right the first time but always money to do it over. The gaiter has failed, replacing it requires disassembling the joint.

 

I would be inclined to repair.

~$150 buys you genuine BMW boot kits. A messy, knuckleduster job, though.

 

Thank you everyone for the response. Ugh! because this is my project car, I will try and replace myself and document. Need to be careful as I also just paid for an alignment... so everything needs to stay in spec.

I figured if BMW was willing to just change the boot, they would have to warranty the half-shaft. My indy said they no longer warranty CV boot replacements, because they end up paying for a half-shaft later.

It is odd that I called three BMW indy shops and the price to replace the boot (just labor) is almost the same as the half-shaft replacement. All three shops said 3.1 hours is the book rate for an outer CV boot. 3.5 hours for the half-shaft.

 

3.5 hours to replace the half shaft? Seriously? It’s a half hour job. The labor saved far outweighs the cost of the new axle. $62 at Carquest 30k miles ago in my case, no need to touch axle disassembly.


Via the interwebs

 

That makes sense on the labor - still have to pull it whether you are replacing the boot or swapping it out.

I notice an aftermarket CV is $100 vs. an OE at $330 vs. Genuine at $800. I suspect your price would go up significantly if you pressed them to avoid aftermarket parts.

 

I put a $100 AM shaft on my E53 when the original outer boot failed. It worked fine for a couple years, but the outer boot failed on the new AM shaft prematurely due to simply being a cheap/crappy boot. I had saved my OE shaft and cleaned it up and re-booted it with GKN (OE) boots and fresh, clean grease. It's been back in service ever since. Strongly recommend either re-booting (assuming you have an OE shaft) or replacing entire shaft with a GKN OE shaft.

If your grease is not contaminated, you can probably get away with the quick/dirty 30-minute method outlined in the link I referenced above. In essence, after removing the inner bolt to the control arm that goes straight toward the engine, you can swing the entire hub assy along with the axle shaft (once popped out of the differential). From there, you remove the inner CV joint from the shaft allowing you to replace both boots. Add additional grease as needed, then button everything back up and you're on your way.

AM.

 

I put a $100 AM shaft on my E53 when the original outer boot failed. It worked fine for a couple years, but the outer boot failed on the new AM shaft prematurely due to simply being a cheap/crappy boot. I had saved my OE shaft and cleaned it up and re-booted it with GKN (OE) boots and fresh, clean grease. It's been back in service ever since. Strongly recommend either re-booting (assuming you have an OE shaft) or replacing entire shaft with a GKN OE shaft.

If your grease is not contaminated, you can probably get away with the quick/dirty 30-minute method outlined in the link I referenced above. In essence, after moving the inner bolt to the control arm that goes straight toward the engine, you can swing the entire hub assy along with the axle shaft (once popped out of the differential). From there, you remove the inner CV joint from the shaft allowing you to replace both boots. Add additional grease as needed, then button everything back up and you're on your way.

AM.

Appreciate the help. I didn't realize the standard method of replacing an outer boot is to remove the shaft. Might as well replace the shaft then?

The link you posted above is very confusing as its 17 pages of different people rambling. I will have to try my best to diy the boot with the GKN boot kit, using the 30-minute trick. Knowing me it will take a whole day. If all goes bad, I will just replace the shaft.

I have a strong belief my boot was damaged when they removed the shafts for the oil pan job a few months ago.

 

I have no doubt my $62 Carquest, Made in the USA shaft will last at least as long as the “made in who knows” factory piece. OP, it’ll last at least long as your ownership of the car. Might be closer to 40k on mine, I forget exactly when I replaced it.

Or it may not last. With the lifetime warranty and the half hour needed to change it out, it’s worth the gamble IMO. Considering the labor to repack the joint and replace the boot, I’m not interested in spending dollars to save pennies.


Via the interwebs

 

I don't know if the E70 boots are prone to wearing out, but the E53 is a known boot eater. I think Duke is referring to his E83 which is, AFAIK, not really known to be a boot eater. I know my E83 is on its original shafts/boots at about 150K mi. My E53 is on at least its third outer boot at about the same mileage.

AM.

 

I don't know if the E70 boots are prone to wearing out, but the E53 is a known boot eater. I think Duke is referring to his E83 which is, AFAIK, not really known to be a boot eater. I know my E83 is on its original shafts/boots at about 150K mi. My E53 is on at least its third outer boot at about the same mileage.

AM.

I am. I noticed my boot was torn around 155k miles (that’s what I get for letting my Bette half assume the car for 9 months); it was the quality of the Carquest axle I was illustrating though. I’d have no problem buying another (in fact I did for the Jetta).

On the E83, the other three boots are still fine at 189k+ miles.

Going through the effort of pulling the axle to R&R the boot, I’d still vote to save the labor and just stab a new axle in, especially with lifetime warranty. I factor in the cost of my time on jobs.


Via the interwebs

 

Rebooting is definitely a PITA job!

AM.

 

On e53 I've done about six half shaft r&r and one outer joint r&r.

If nothing is rust welded it's not too bad a job, 6/10 difficulty.

If the hub spline is frozen, it can take upwards of 20T to push it out so ask for help. I built a special press out of an old rotor and you could copy me.

The biggest usual problem is the c clips. They regularly jam and you won't be able to install the part. Have spares or reuse an old one.

Test fit without the c clip first!

I was amazed to find an OEM outer joint at FCP for the price of chinesium Amazon so I bought that and I didn't have to replace my inner joint.

 

I appreciate everyones help. I wish I would have posted this question before buying the boot.

I decided to not replace the boot (too much work) and instead replace the half-shaft. I came across a GKN (OE) brand new shaft for under $280. Should I buy the OE or get a reman Cardone ($150-$200) or knockoff brand? I don't want to do the job again in a year or have inferior fitment issues.

I'm going to save $400-$450 in labor with DIY.

Also, I just had an alignment. Shop said, if they did the repair, no alignment needed. I'm thinking If I DIY, will I need an alignment after CV axle half-shaft?

 

Finally getting around to replacing passenger CV Axle and at a road block.

can’t get the axle out between the shock.

Any ideals? Can anyone PM me if you can talk it through?

do I need to remove the strut bolts from the top? To loosen the strut to move out of the way? Seems like I’m causing damage to the strut mount bushing by moving it around.

 

 

Thank you @Tomcat05. Doesn’t look like the instructions came through on your post. Unless your telling me I just need to remove the strut from the top? Which is going to be a pain in the butt.

 

You extract the axle in the direction of its orientation (straight out the side) not downward. Use a wedge against the diff and a hammer to pop it free of its c clip.


Via the interwebs

 

Thank you @dukedkt442 for the response. I was able to pop the axle out of the front diff (not fun getting it out).

My issue, the passenger side CV Axle is so long and is getting caught up in the strut fork. I guess I’m supposed to move the strut out of the way, but not working, as it’s not moving enough. No one has crated a video on YouTube on how to do this for the E70. One video I did find, skips a lot of the steps. And yes, I’m filming to add to YouTube and our forum.

This stupid 3 hr flag rate job took me all day and still not done.

 

If the knuckle is already separated from the axle, just loosen or remove the 3 nuts holding it to the tower and maybe you’ll easily get more room. Just be careful to not let it hang on the brake lines. While your E70 is larger than my E83, the knuckle is of a slightly different design.


Via the interwebs

 

I am doing this same job this week because my Oil Pan Gasket needs replacement.

I am leaning on removing the spring strut holder to get the RH CV Shaft out...

What do you think?

 

Makes sense to remove that “fork” looking portion of the strut. Just don’t know how well I can get it off and put it back correctly. Only the E70 is this horrible.

looking at the footage from the guys doing my oil pan, doesn’t look like the removed the fork portion.

 

Aha! We have a theory, Watson!

I'd say that is the likely reason why your outer cv boot is torn. Shop mechanics are gonna pry & pull to shave actual hours from the job.

This Aussie pulled it out by prying on the spring strut holder...

BMTroubleU Passenger-side CV Axle Removal link

 

Yeah that’s the only video I could find was the Aussie dudes video. He skipped a lot of the process, especially the removal portion.

yeah I’m pretty sure the shop that did my affordable oil pan job damaged my boot. Savages!

My loss is everyone’s gain as I’m documenting the process. Sounds like I need to remove the fork from the strut, but mark it first. I wish I didn’t take so many parts off before learning the correct process. At least I didn’t take off the caliper or rotor off.

Also, huge thanks to @Dekero for connecting with me to walk me through his process.

 

My loss is everyone’s gain as I’m documenting the process.

Ha! Let's race. I'm doing the same wretched job this week.

 

You will likely beat me… it’s too hot to work here.

does anyone have the torque specs for control arms and the other suspension parts that are connected to the front hub?

 

Gutenteight. They’re not high stress like a rod bolt or main bearing cap, a large range is fine. Usually ~60 ft lbs for the control arm-chassis bolts, stiffener plate, and subframe bolts. Axle nuts are 310 Ft lbs, with weight on the wheel. Just make sure to torque all hinge bolts with the weight on the tires.

Torque specs are determined my the bolt size and thread pitch, not the vehicle brand. Just Google a torque spec chart for metric fasteners.


Via the interwebs

 

Mother Trucker!!! It’s out. Have to take the strut fork out on the passenger side. Thank GOD for this forum. My cheap butt was just going to replace the CV boot. I broke the back seal of the old axle trying to get it out.

question. Do I need to lube the new axle that goes in the diff? I heard something about Vaseline?