Also, did I get the wrong axle? Looks different. Checking ECS and FCP it’s showing I have the right one. Maybe a new design?

 

Just a smearing of diff lube on the end of the splines is all that is necessary. You just want that circlip to snap in cleanly.

It is my understanding that the OE for BMW's shafts does not sell aftermarket. Unless you purchase Genuine BMW, you will see differences. I would triple-check the part numbers and eyeball the distances to the bends to verify.

 

Well I got it in just now. Trying to everything back. Figuring out torque specs

 

my chickenscratch. if it helps...

plus, somebody else's screen grabs from the service docs.

 

My new issue, the new cv axle is too short. It’s not making it through the hub. I don’t know if I need to yank on it to loosen something, to make it stretch?

It is the right part number, just shorter. I’m done for the day ugh 😩

 

Boots are fully compressed, can you extend it by hand?


Via the interwebs

 

No. But I will try again. Didn’t know if there is a special tool? I had no clue they would come compressed. Would assume it would be the same length.

 

A good tug and it gets longer. ROFL

 

I’m awaiting GKN corporate and ECS tuning to investigate. They are both concerned I received the right part # on the wrong CV Axle.

I pray I didn’t damage my front diff if it’s the wrong part. FML! I cross reference before installing with FCP and ECS before.

Now I got to take it all out again and wait for a different one.

 

here are the part numbers on my '13. They are made by GKN, too! I think they are original parts??

just, wow. crazy.

As if the job weren't unpleasant enough! Hang tough.

 

Thank you @Tomcat05 for sharing. Yeah that’s the right parts. GKN made them for BMW.

At this point I think I should just re-boot my CV boot that’s bad. Already have the part and slap the old one back in and sleep better at night.

 

Ok made up my mind. Heading to get my original rebuilt for $80 in one day. Screw dealing with new ones

 

That sounds like a deal. I know they're pretty tough other than if a torn boot is ignored and water gets in.

Keep us updated!

 

Got my CV Axle rebuilt! Only $85 and looks and feels new. And yes, GKN is the OEM. Too bad the replacement GKN CV Axle I ordered is too short

Question, I lost about 2-3oz of diff fluid when removing the CV Axle. Do I need to worry about refiling? If so, I can't get the BMW brand fluid at the dealership. Doesn't the front diff just take synthetic 75W-90 gear oil? Any brand you recommend from Autozone?

I had the guys empty and fill my front diff a few months ago with the BMW brand gear oil when they did my oil pan (just none left).

Here is my original CV Axle rebuilt. I kind of ruined the fresh paint some by not letting it dry.

 

Got my CV Axle rebuilt! Only $85 and looks and feels new.

Great Call!

It was a local shop, then?

 

Any full synthetic 75w-90 will do, I’ve been using Redline and Mobil 1 back and forth for the last 130k miles, on 20-25k mile changes. Just go to your FLAPS.


Via the interwebs

 

Any full synthetic 75w-90 will do, I’ve been using Redline and Mobil 1 back and forth for the last 130k miles, on 20-25k mile changes. Just go to your FLAPS.


Via the interwebs

Thank you @dukedkt442. I'm assuming it's OK to mix? Or should I just drain and fill with new brand?

 

Front diff: 44ft.lb. 14mm hex fill/drain plugs 600ml 75W85 Redline p/n 50104

drain & fill is quick - you will have it done in an hour including taking the wheel off.

Takes a big hex to get the plug out...

 

Do I need a special tool to remove and replace this seal? I picked up a new one. I don’t think it’s bad, but might as well if not too hard.

 

It's a good idea to replace output shaft seals. There is an o-ring inside the passenger shaft adapter bolted to the oilpan, as well. Four bolts will pull this adapter off.

As to the seals - You will carefully pry out the old seal with a prybar or jumbo screwdriver. Take note of the direction and depth of the old seal before you remove it. Then, clean the seat and gently square-up the new seal into the bore using your hands. Using the old seal as a driving tool, line its edge up with the new seal and tap, tap, tap it home with a hammer- slow & steady...

If you jank it up in any way such as bending it or damaging the rubber seal, pull it out and buy another.

Coat the o-ring & lips of the seals with lube or silicone paste before pushing the shafts through. If you damage them, you get to do the job again - which sucks.

 

This job sucks! I’m doing a number to the old seal. It’s almost like the shop that did this before used glue (which I doubt). I think I’m going to need to remove the four bolts to the shaft adapter. Those seals were just changed also.

 

This job sucks! I’m doing a number to the old seal. It’s almost like the shop that did this before used glue (which I doubt). I think I’m going to need to remove the four bolts to the shaft adapter. Those seals were just changed also.

Whoa hold on.

Use a seal puller not some janky screw driver.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/seal-puller/p/oemtools-seal-puller/48199_0_0

It also doesn’t matter what you do to the old seals as long as you don’t mar the bores in which they sit. A light smear of RTV made for GEAR OIL on the inside will both add lubricity and sealing.

Use a socket of the same OD as a drift to drive the seals into place. I usually use two sockets: one of the seal’s OD sitting as a cup, and another smaller socket sitting inside the larger as a driver for the hammer. You DID measure how deep they sit from the face of the diff, right??? [emoji6] It doesn’t matter if you didn’t, they sit hard on a shoulder inside the bore. Drive them in until they sit flush, but don’t over-drive or you’ll deform the seal and have leak issues. Listen to the change in sound as you’re tapping, the rise in octave is pretty apparent.


Via the interwebs

 

It's just a prying action through the center hole of the seal. the longer the pry tool the better. They will usually deform in some way upon removal.

 

I got the old one out and the new one in. It’s a horrible job.

Now trying to get the outer CV axle into the hub. Damn this sucks!

If I ever get this job done I will have some good footage.

 

I feel like a high school student in their 1st day of shop class. I swear I have worked on cars religiously the past 8 years. Ugh!

Now I’m dealing with the axle trying to get back through the hub. I greased the damn thing.

 

You need to jiggle the axle as you’re stabbing it in; the slightest angle binds it. I clean the hub bores with a pipe cleaner before inserting the axles, and also quickly bevel their splined ends slightly with a file before inserting.

If you think those seals are bad (they should take less than 3 minutes to extract and install), just wait until you have to do the front crank seal. If you’re close, I’m willing to lend or rent the tool.


Via the interwebs

 

You need to jiggle the axle as you’re stabbing it in; the slightest angle binds it. I clean the hub bores with a pipe cleaner before inserting the axles, and also quickly bevel their splined ends slightly with a file before inserting.

If you think those seals are bad (they should take less than 3 minutes to extract and install), just wait until you have to do the front crank seal. If you’re close, I’m willing to lend or rent the tool.


Via the interwebs

Yeah the front crank seal.... Kicked my ass trying to get it out... Finally got mad and cranked the tool till I had nothing left in me. And that's what got it out lol!!🤣🤣

 

Thank you @dukedkt442 for the feedback. I will try again tomorrow. I think it’s binding. Shouldn’t be this hard. Is their a tool to make this job easier?

as far as front crank seal. Do you mean the front crankshaft seal? If so, I would do 5 of those jobs vs.changing a CV axle and outer seal. The front seal to me was so much easier. Accept I had to get the removal tool modified.

 

I was, simply because of the need for the extraction and pressing tool. The diff seals are the same process of my 50s and 60s tractors, so I’ve done a few of those.

If you have a hard flange, you can try using a round stock drift to tap around the axle from the engine side to drive it into place enough to get some threads emerged. Once that occurs, use the old axle nut to pull the axle through the hub.


Via the interwebs

 

This in an axle pull-in tool...

Also, you must use new axle nuts. You put a dab of motor oil where the flat of the nut meets the hub, wedge a screwdriver into the rotor vanes and against the caliper, and then torque to 420Nm (308Ft-Lb.)

That means either a big torque wrench...

or, a digital adapter if you already own a massive breaker bar...

 

Any documentation on how to access the front diff fill plug? There is an AC line in front. I took off the small screw that holds the AC lines. This sucks