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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am really :mad::mad:

Guys,

I had a P1397 for which I did replace the CAM sensor. Now with that gone the SES light came back on me with 4 more codes P1188, *89, P0130 and *50. I am not sure what all is the maintenance history of this car, since I just bought it used with 118K miles. Please advise if these are major's and going to cost me a fortune??

Also I hear some rhythmic sound on my read (probably right) wheel when driving. The mechanic who has done the CAM's had road tested and said that its probably from the rear differential, which can break anytime. Now what's this?? Does this cost more, and what'll happen if it breaks while I'm driving (if it can). Kindly be kind and advise.

Thanks a ton !!! :)
 

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Coyote Racing Team
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628 Posts
OBD II.....BMW-FC............Description
P1188......227..................Fuel Control (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1189......228..................Fuel Control (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0170......202..................Fuel Trim (Bank 1)
P0173......203..................Fuel Trim (Bank 2)
P0150......153, 154, 155....O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0130......150, 151, 152....O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Might want to look into replacing the two pre-cat O2 sensors.

Also, if you're not sure of the maintenance: clean the MAS and replace the fuel filter.
 

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We want the Lion!
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Welcome to the 'fest. These are common codes. A bit of thread searching and you'd have found this:

P0150- OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (BANK 2 SENSOR 1)
P0130- OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (BANK 1 SENSOR 1)

P1189- FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR B CKT INTERMITTENT
P1188- FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR B CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT

Replace your O2 sensors and carefully check your intake boot. You probably have an air leak somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. I had checked the above/small portion of the MAF rubber boot and replaced it since it had a crack. I didn't check the lower/hidden portion. Will that, per you, throw the codes for O2 sensors, or should I just go ahead change the O2 sensors first? That's what my confusion is. Also if you guys can elaborate a bit on my AC problem (though I did put another post), I do get cold air from driver side vents and lukewarm/no-cool air from the passenger side vents. Do I need to see a dealer for that??Advise on this plz.
 

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Coyote Racing Team
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Thanks guys. I had checked the above/small portion of the MAF rubber boot and replaced it since it had a crack. I didn't check the lower/hidden portion. Will that, per you, throw the codes for O2 sensors, or should I just go ahead change the O2 sensors first? That's what my confusion is. Also if you guys can elaborate a bit on my AC problem (though I did put another post), I do get cold air from driver side vents and lukewarm/no-cool air from the passenger side vents. Do I need to see a dealer for that??Advise on this plz.
If you found a tear in the rubber boot and changed it, wait to see if the codes disappear before you start throwing new parts at it. The tear in the MAF boot usually results in a "lean" condition and the subsequent codes. Regardless, even if you replaced the O2 sensors, you would still get a code resulting from the tear in the MAF boot. Wait and see.

For the AC, do a search for "Final Stage Resistor" - that should answer a bunch of questions (pretty common issue).
 

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We want the Lion!
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I live in Allentown. Bring it by and I'll clear your codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had changed the upper rubber boot about 15 days ago, and thenafter also changed the CAM sensor(P1397). That code went away but now in after 30 or so miles, these new one's are my next nightmare :-(
About AC--FSR, from what I read, its related more to the blower/fan not working. My fan works just fine, its only the part vents blow cold and part one's blow lukewarm. Do you guys still advise to have it checked/replaced?? Please confirm.
 

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We want the Lion!
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A bad FSR will cause all sorts of A/C flakiness. Do a forum-wide search on FSR is you still need proof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any thought/advise on this --
"Also I hear some rhythmic sound on my read (probably right) wheel when driving. The mechanic who has done the CAM's had road tested and said that its probably from the rear differential, which can break anytime. Now what's this?? Does this cost more, and what'll happen if it breaks while I'm driving (if it can). Kindly be kind and advise."
 
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