Also, there is a part in the picture keeps very hot even the par has parked in the garage for one month without running, and I am not sure it is supposed to be hot

1 month on a battery tender I assume? That electrical part should not be hot.
The piece it is mounted on is a part of the EXHAUST (recirculation system), so that gets very hot, but only during and after driving obviously.

 

Thanks for the rapid reply.

Do you know the hot part's name? Could the hot part was broken and caused the engine malfunction reduced power issue or the codes?


2010 BMW X5 35D

 

Thanks for the rapid reply.

Do you know the hot part's name? Could the hot part was broken and caused the engine malfunction reduced power issue or the codes?

2010 BMW X5 35D

EGR cooler.
Common-ish failure on these, the electrical part malfunctioning would cause an error as the EGR system is additionally used for rapid heatup, so could be related to your limp mode start. I believe the vacuum operation opens the flap, and the hidden spring underneath closes it. Don't break the spring.

 

the black plastic part you circled is an electronic valve (11747810831). they tend to fail over time and it's super easy to test with a handheld vacuum pump

 

Vacuum control valve is part 11747810831

If it is hot while the car has not run in 30 days, I would be looking further up the line at electrical issue.

 

Yes, the heat part is the black plastic part I circled, not the big silver metal part.

 

Thank you guys!

I AM READY TO CHANGE THE VALVE. The part is about $60. I am not handy, but I am ready to change it by myself. It looks not too hard to do the job. The thing is bugging me is why this broken part can cause so many issue codes0641,p204c(twice),p0299


2010 BMW X5 35D

 

Sorry, the codes are 0641, p204c, P0401(twice),p0299

 

With a 2010 X5D it's time to learn to be handy or find a good Indy shop.

That part is a vacuum solenoid which controls emissions equipment, they can cause all kinds of havoc.

Search around on this forum and you'll find links to some good resources. If you have a laptop get a bimmergeeks cable and ista. Good luck.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

With a 2010 X5D it's time to learn to be handy or find a good Indy shop.

That part is a vacuum solenoid which controls emissions equipment, they can cause all kinds of havoc.

Search around on this forum and you'll find links to some good resources. If you have a laptop get a bimmergeeks cable and ista. Good luck.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

+1
it's really not that hard with all the great DIY's on the forums. Just take it slow and you'll be fine. I changed the vacuum lines last week

 

We have heard about and trouble shot a TON of issues on these diesels... Your codes are common, garden variety issues. We've seen 100, 200 of these.

I have NEVER heard of a hot plastic vavle, heated after a month off, causing these issues.

Oh, do keep in mind that opening the door can 'turn on' parts on the car.

 

I wish everyone enjoyed a great weekend

Question again How to get the two black tubes off from the part? I tried to pull them out, but it didn't work.

 

Question again How to get the two black tubes off from the part? I tried to pull them out, but it didn't work.

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/11634/Vacuum-Valve-11741742712/

Carefully twist and pull. The plastic nozzles may be brittle with heat and age.

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1287780

 

Since you are replacing the solenoid, you are less concerned about breaking the nipples - I would use a small screwdriver or pick to push the lines off.

If you are concerned about breaking the nipple, and you have adequate slack to remake the line, just cut it off. In some cases you slit the line to get it off then cut and remake it.


Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks again for your input.

Does anyone know the location of the oil pressure switch? I searched on the engine, but no luck.


2010 BMW X5 35D

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...-electrical-system/12-61-oil-pressure-oil-temperature-oil-level-display/HLKKq7y

 

Doug, you are my hero!

 

With the attached picture, I was still not able to locate the oil pressure switch's position. It looks a long way to go for me to be handy

 

With the attached picture, I was still not able to locate the oil pressure switch's position. It looks a long way to go for me to be handy

You are saying piece 2 is not the oil pressure switch, or that you can't find it from the picture? The thing under the circled-1 is the alternator with three electrical cables going to it, ground, hot, and BCD.

 

Thanks Dung!

I couldn't find it. Now my understanding is that I should lay on the ground and look upside. It is located under the alternator. I will check as soon as I get home today.