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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I have a 06 330i e90 and the passenger low beam malfunction error is on my iDrive along with the passenger low beam being out. The rest of the headlight works properly. Two months ago I had this issue, I replaced the ballas/control unit, the bulb, and the wire that connects those two. It fixed the issue after install, then next day it went out on startup and then came on in mid drive about 15 seconds later. After that its been good for a couple months until past two weeks. Past two weeks I noticed flickering and then it'd stay on. The last couple days, no flickering and it won't come on. So, I know my ballast is good, the bulb is good, and the headlight does function properly... Any ideas? Looking at the diagram part numb 63127189312 could be a possible issue but that looks like a electric module for the adaptive parts and not the actual low beam. Here's a link to see the diagram, its part numb 3: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=VB33&mospid=48523&btnr=63_0918&hg=63&fg=05&hl=14

Any ideas? Thanks for reading.

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Fixed this issue!

So I checked the Volatge to my headlight harness and it was a constant 12V. So I then narrowed the problem down to the headlight being the issue. I JUST recently replaced the ballast, bulb, and ballast to bulb wire which is a pretty time consuming job since you have to remove the headlight which requires removing the bumper, and is more complex if you have headlight washers. So my first idea was to check the harness that powers the ballast (small plug with a black wire and yellow wire). I made sure it was connected, and I noticed the wires were sitting against the back of one of the components of the headlight (high beam bulb I believe). The back of this component is metal, so I thought maybe the wires sitting against it were shorting the power to the ballast. Moved the wires off of this piece, turned on headlights and BAM, came on and works perfect now.

Conclusion: I wasted 4 hours and $350+ removing the headlight and buying/ installing new ballast and bulb. The single issue causing this problem was the wires supplying power to the ballast were being shorted by resting against another component in my headlight.

I've seen several issues for "front / passenger low beam malfunction" and I've been trying to figure this out for a while so I recommend checking the power to the ballast to make sure its not shorting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Follow-up on above

I got in my car an hour after I thought I solved this issue and the low beam would not turn on... So I checked the yellow and black wires again that power the ballast and they were not grounded against anything. I played with the end part of the harness that plugs in to the ballast and found out that's the issue. When I pushed the wires toward the ballast to make sure they were snug and checked my low beam it came on. I then pulled the harness plug away from the ballast (harness is still plugged in to ballast but just tug to loosen) and it would not come on. So I basically have a faulty harness that powers the ballast. So the wires are loose/unsecure that connect to the end piece that plugs in to the ballast. Somehow I'll have to find a way for the black and yellow wire harness to stay snug against the ballast. I don't think this is the type of thing that can be easily replaced because the yellow and black wires are part of the housing and basically permanent. They originate from the inner part of where the main harness connects and are only removable via the ballast side. They are part of the actual headlight housing.
 

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Fixed this issue!

So I checked the Volatge to my headlight harness and it was a constant 12V. So I then narrowed the problem down to the headlight being the issue. I JUST recently replaced the ballast, bulb, and ballast to bulb wire which is a pretty time consuming job since you have to remove the headlight which requires removing the bumper, and is more complex if you have headlight washers. So my first idea was to check the harness that powers the ballast (small plug with a black wire and yellow wire). I made sure it was connected, and I noticed the wires were sitting against the back of one of the components of the headlight (high beam bulb I believe). The back of this component is metal, so I thought maybe the wires sitting against it were shorting the power to the ballast. Moved the wires off of this piece, turned on headlights and BAM, came on and works perfect now.

Conclusion: I wasted 4 hours and $350+ removing the headlight and buying/ installing new ballast and bulb. The single issue causing this problem was the wires supplying power to the ballast were being shorted by resting against another component in my headlight.

I've seen several issues for "front / passenger low beam malfunction" and I've been trying to figure this out for a while so I recommend checking the power to the ballast to make sure its not shorting.
:thumbup:, nicely done
 

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Great timing

Thanks for your descriptive posts up2parr. I just had the exact same thing happen to me and was expecting to replace ballast, etc. I will check out what you said today after work and post back later today or tomorrow. Did you ever figure out a permanent solution to keep the plug securely latched?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Solution

1)buy a new headlight
2)have someone who is good with wiring (automotive electric or radio install) reinforce the wiring connection.

I used the 2nd option and it was done by removing the wheel and front fender liner. Headlight removal was unnecessary.
 

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history:

I have a 06 330i e90 and the passenger low beam malfunction error is on my idrive along with the passenger low beam being out. The rest of the headlight works properly. Two months ago i had this issue, i replaced the ballas/control unit, the bulb, and the wire that connects those two. It fixed the issue after install, then next day it went out on startup and then came on in mid drive about 15 seconds later. After that its been good for a couple months until past two weeks. Past two weeks i noticed flickering and then it'd stay on. The last couple days, no flickering and it won't come on. So, i know my ballast is good, the bulb is good, and the headlight does function properly... Any ideas? Looking at the diagram part numb 63127189312 could be a possible issue but that looks like a electric module for the adaptive parts and not the actual low beam. Here's a link to see the diagram, its part numb 3: http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=vb33&mospid=48523&btnr=63_0918&hg=63&fg=05&hl=14

any ideas? Thanks for reading.

James
normally if purchase ballas you can buy them as a pair. Did you change both sides. Secondly is bulb and ballas same watts. Your ballas maybe 35w and bulb is 55w, if so this maybe the issue or yet . Did you mistakenly touch the bulb with your hands. Always wear cloves. When handling bulbs light.
 

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This thread is from a year ago...
 

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Follow-up on above

I got in my car an hour after I thought I solved this issue and the low beam would not turn on... So I checked the yellow and black wires again that power the ballast and they were not grounded against anything. I played with the end part of the harness that plugs in to the ballast and found out that's the issue. When I pushed the wires toward the ballast to make sure they were snug and checked my low beam it came on. I then pulled the harness plug away from the ballast (harness is still plugged in to ballast but just tug to loosen) and it would not come on. So I basically have a faulty harness that powers the ballast. So the wires are loose/unsecure that connect to the end piece that plugs in to the ballast. Somehow I'll have to find a way for the black and yellow wire harness to stay snug against the ballast. I don't think this is the type of thing that can be easily replaced because the yellow and black wires are part of the housing and basically permanent. They originate from the inner part of where the main harness connects and are only removable via the ballast side. They are part of the actual headlight housing.
Ok, this is EXACTLY my issue. 2006 330i, passenger side low beam and for certain the issue is that black and yellow wire connector. BMW wants $2k for a new headlight, even though I told them exactly what the problem is (black and yellow wire connector into the ballast). If I mess with it the low beam headlight will come back on and work for about a week, but then like it fails again. I cannot find a part number for black/yellow wire connector. Anyone??
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Take the headlight to someone who is good with wiring, I.e., car audio guy. The black and yellow wires need to be reinforced. There is no part for this. It's either a new headlight or you get the wiring re-secured by someone. That is what I did. No problems since.
 

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Ok, this is EXACTLY my issue. 2006 330i, passenger side low beam and for certain the issue is that black and yellow wire connector. BMW wants $2k for a new headlight, even though I told them exactly what the problem is (black and yellow wire connector into the ballast). If I mess with it the low beam headlight will come back on and work for about a week, but then like it fails again. I cannot find a part number for black/yellow wire connector. Anyone??
Remove the connector and gently pry the interior pins inward. This will put more tension on the pins when installed and should solve your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I will repeat. Your only options:

***8226;Get a new headlight

***8226;Find car audio or indy mechanic who is good with electrical. Have them reinforce the wires into the connector/plug so both wires make a secure and consistent connection with the plug/connector -- the wires are loose within the plug. (This option is best done by lifting the car, removing the wheel and front wheel well. It's a lot less envasive than removing the headlight.

From experience, option two is the best and most cost effective.
 

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thanks for the replies. i really do not want to have to take the headlight out, but i guess it may come to that. for the time being i was able to wedge a piece of a rubber sink stopper that i cut to size, in between the yellow/black wire connector and the flat part of ballast housing. this effectively puts a little tension on the connection. I would have rather tried the fix of bending the pins a little, but I can't seem to get that connector to disconnect.
 
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