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Back in July I had the PCV heater replaced at the BMW dealer due to the recall . The SIB is # 11 16 17. Receipt sez "replace blow by heater (PCV heater elbow) 55215 WFGR". Now I have
code problems popping up on the dash , P0050 (replaced 02 sensor) but code P2298 now appears. Local INDY sez code might be related to excess vacuum after he removed the oil cap with engine running. He also sez it points to the need to replace the valve cover due to the failure of the PCV..

QUESTION...while performing the PCV recall, did the tech remove the valve cover? If yes, could I claim PCV troubles are related to their work? Far fetched?

Pls advise.
Mikey
 

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[1] Back in July I had the PCV heater replaced at the BMW dealer due to the recall...[2] Now I have code problems popping up on the dash, [a] P050 (replaced 02 sensor) [when did any warning light or performance issue arise -- at what mileage was that P050 code saved in DME memory?] but code P2298 now appears [same questions -- lights, mileage/km?]. What, if any, performance issues did you have after either warning light or code appeared? Do you have ANY scan tool to read/clear codes (you may have heard me suggest to invest $30-$35 to get one ;-)

Local INDY sez code might be related to excess vacuum after he removed the oil cap with engine running. [either you misunderstood him, or you need to get him to explain his logic in that statement :) ] He also sez it points to the need to replace the valve cover due to the failure of the PCV. [If there was a hiss or whistle from the oil filler cap and the cap was hard to open during engine operation (it should NOT be) THAT would indicate failure of the PCV valve which is integral to the plastic Valve Cover, requiring replacement of the entire cover].

QUESTION...while performing the PCV recall, did the tech remove the valve cover? If yes, could I claim PCV troubles are related to their work? Far fetched?


Hi Mikey,

The Valve Cover was NOT removed in the recall procedure to replace the Breather Heater. Attached is RCRIT-17V683-0566 which describes what was done in the recall (basically remove the alternator, reach in under intake manifold, and replace the heater element or "Angle Connector." That part is located under the #3 cylinder Intake Manifold port, and you can see it with a bright light looking between the ports.

The only possible relation of the breather heater to the O2 sensors is that all 4 O2 sensor heaters are on the same Fuse (F38 on 2008+ models) as the Breather Heater. Here is the TIS circuit diagram for F38:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...onnectors/components/f-fuses/f38-fuse/vFbq6N3

Here is the circuit diagram for the Remainder of the O2 sensor circuit, including DME signals (WITHOUT showing Heater Wires):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...-units-modules/a6000-dme-control-unit/hqIOB9Z

I would encourage you to get a cheap P-code reader so you can:
1) read & clear your own codes (along with Freeze Frame Data);
2) be able to better understand and question statements made by shop techs/salesmen :)

The reality of the situation is that even reputable techs or SA's (salesmen ;-) will NOT take the time to explain the situation in any more detail than you appear to understand, and if you don't ask the right questions, even the good ones don't want to waste your/their time. In addition, there are some who will take advantage of a customer who does NOT know enough to cross-examine them. So EVERYONE does a better job if the Customer is knowledgeable (NOT snarky, just knowledgeable). :rofl:

Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays,
George
 

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I recently got the recall letter stating the parts are in for my car. I'm a retired tech and physically checked both the pcv heater and the blower motor and wiring and all looks ok.
I'm reluctant to take car to local dealer for fear they'll screw up something or damage the car.
I have had professional interaction with the dealer service dept when I was an insurance adjuster and was not impressed.
I'm putting off this until after Christmas and New Year. I'm thinking I'll make an unannounced visit to the dealer service dept and get a feel for how they'll treat me and how much time they'll offer to spend with me before I decide whether to use them or another dealership.
 

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I found this very interesting. ***8220;Important! Installation risk of damage. Use only distilled water for lubrication when installing the new crankcase ventilation heater. No grease or lubricating oils should be used.***8221;
 

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I recently got the recall letter stating the parts are in for my car. I'm a retired tech and physically checked both the pcv heater and the blower motor and wiring and all looks ok. I'm reluctant to take car to local dealer for fear they'll screw up something or damage the car.
I'm a DIY "lifer" in same situation. Reason I DIY is that I have seen enough "Sub-Optimal Outcomes" (SOO - pronounced SUE!) when somebody had the local guy on the corner do something. Here's my plan.

1) Call to confirm that BOTH recalls can/will be done in ONE visit (parts are in the building ;-)
2) Review the RCRIT for each of the two procedures, list what they will remove & where they will work in the procedures; SEE ATTACHED RCRITS; another reason to review the RCRITS is so you have a correct understanding of the details involved in the procedure, a healthy appreciation for what the techs are having to do, and don't get disrespected by the Dealer's personnel for making false accusations;
3) Take e-photos of the work area (passenger footwell, area around alternator and wiring/hoses to Breather Heater, etc.);
4) Remove the trim cover over passenger footwell (2 T20 screws & footwell light wiring connector) -- photos of the blower, Connector & Final Stage Resistor;
5) Do Functional Jobs Fault Codes Scan in INPA, save a ScreenPrint of that printout, print a copy of same, and hand it to the SA when handing over key, advising that you intend to scan again before leaving lot, and will advise if any new codes, so before they procede, if they do NOT trust your scan, they should do their own. I don't intend to be snarky about that, but I just want them to know that I can diagnose faults myself, and want to avoid any disputes regarding any fault that "Just Happens" to occur on their watch. RECORD MILEAGE as parked on their lot and turned over to them, and add that to printout. Freeze Frame Data in module memory includes mileage/km when fault saved. Take laptop with you to Dealer to scan again when done.
6) Ask SA or desk to CONFIRM that ALL parts/supplies to perform recall are on hand before you leave, or go to waiting room. May sound stupid, but I once waited for over an hour at a Ford dealer for a recall (appointment made) to be performed, that only required removing a pressure switch (like an old brake light screw-in switch) from the master cylinder (related to speed control). I could have done procedure myself in less than 5 minutes: open hood, disconnect electrical connector (which I had already disconnected to prevent overheating possibility/fire hazard), unscrew switch, screw in new switch, reconnect electrical connector, close hood. After waiting > one hour, someone came to inform me that the parts were NOT available. Murphy's Law is ubiquitous. :)
7) When the valet brings car around if delivered to you running, BEFORE getting in, open hood & inspect serpentine belt for any "walking" on tensioner or idler. If simply given the key, inspect belt BEFORE starting. That may sound absurd, but more than one complaint has been made in the past year on BMW forums of a shredded serpentine belt immediately following recall performance.

In one reported case, a valet drove up to a relatively unaware owner, and the owner asked what the "slapping" noise was coming from the engine compartment. The valet said he didn't know and would go ask a tech (leaving the motor running ;-) About ten minutes later someone else comes out and suggests that maybe the car ought to be returned to the service bay (motor STILL running, slapping noise now fainter ;-) It is easy, if in a hurry, to NOT get the serpentine belt properly routed and in EACH groove of the various pulleys.

8) When you get the car delivered/finished, scan codes again & report any that weren't there BEFORE you leave Dealer LOT. Save ScreenPrint of Codes, Code Details & Freeze Frame Data. When you get home, check the new Blower Motor harness install points, and reinstall trim panel over the passenger footwell, and do closer inspection of Breather heater hoses & connectors with bright light & mirror. Check fuse that supplies O2 Sensor heaters & Breather Heater (F38 on 2008+ models).

That's probably too much detail & effort for most people, who will elect to just take their chances. My view: It's amazing how much better you get along with people when you actually know what you are doing. CF :bigpimp: :rofl:

Well-documented facts are the best tool in dispute resolution, or avoidance of a dispute in the first place. So am I being too particular about things??? My view is that most people will do a good job for someone who knows and appreciates good work, and who knows enough NOT to make false or erroneous accusations. I have also seen enough of basic human nature to have observed SOME trying to cover up a bungled procedure if they can get away with BS. So my plan could be abbreviated BSD. That's NOT Bit-Serial Data like the BUS, but rather "BS-Dissuader." :)

Please let us know your strategy & outcome. If you don't have a strategy, you WILL have an "Outcome" and it MAY be "Sub-Optimal." :tsk:

George
 

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Excellent post! I didn't mention aside from being a retired tech, I was also a service manager for a GM dealer, owned my own repair shops (mechanical and body shops) and in later years an auto damage adjuster for a major insurance company.
I like the thoroughness of your plan and had thought of some of those same ideas as well. However kudos to you for your advice!
I will address the issue after the New Year and keep this post updated.
:thumbup:
PS: I dug out my Sony laptop which is running windows 10. I haven't used it since I switched to Chromebooks. I'm going to reformat it and was wondering if INPA will work with windows 10? If not, I'll wipe it and load windows 7 and INPA.
Any advice on which cable to get would be appreciated.
 

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...was wondering if INPA will work with windows 10?
It runs fine on mine: 7 year-old Lenovo, originally Windows 7, upgraded from original OS to Windows 10 several years ago when MS had free upgrade. INPA and the rest of Standard Tools takes somewhere in the 10 GB to 20 GB range of space on your HD (that's without trying to delete files NOT needed for your particular vehicle from E89 Daten). Most anyone who follows the instructions in the "Installation Instructions" text file seems to have few/ no issues.

If you speak German, that's a plus. Otherwise Google Translate is your friend. See attached pdf of E9x references for what appears to be preferred site to download INPA or ISTA from (BimmerGeeks), along with their K+DCAN cable to connect OBD II Socket to USB port on laptop ($45). If NOT familiar with Bentley manual or TIS Online Manual (Great for Circuit Diagrams), check out those items as best references.

Just curious, what is available for the Benz or 'Vette?

Merry Christmas,
George
 

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Merry Christmas George!
I appreciate all the good info. I'm going to tackle the INPA load after Christmas when I have some quite time for myself.
My benz is an old guy 2000 E320 4matic wagon that I've owned for 7+ years. I've maintained it pretty well and just recently changed oil to Moly lube after watching Kent on Youtube who is a great guy and I always enjoy his videos. The benz is in the neighborhood of 190k miles and thankfully still dependable and running strong. I alternate between it and the E90 depending on the weather and the need. I don't have a MB specific scan tool and have been able to get by with universal obdII. My Corvette is an 89 coupe L98, dark red metallic/black interior with 15k original miles. I'm third owner and have history from new. Car was local to my area and is the classic "garage queen" in condition.
It runs like new. Even the Automatic AC with R12 still works perfect (I went through fluids and tune up when I bought it 4 years ago) New tires this past summer. I don't have a scan tool that works with it, but thankfully have not needed one. Only mods are Kenwood HU and new speakers. Ditched the Bose as amps were fried. Kenwood is a great upgrade having BT and phone. Recently added a coolant filter as I had a persistent rust particle issue even with a couple of flushes. I tucked the filter near blower motor housing, down in right fender well. Looks really good and cleaned up the rust particles within an hour of driving. Hoping to get it out soon with weather permitting. NY winters suck!
 

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