Are these any better than stock? Anyone has any experience with similar or same product? Comments? Waste of $$ or money well spent?
I should hope so; but quantify "better." According to ECS, they "reduce deflection," which is always a good thing. Reduced deflection (movement of the braking components) should improve initial bite and "pedal feel" (firmer, more distinct engagement point). But at what cost? It seems like a potential squeak spot to me, especially in the braking system.Are these any better than stock?
I installed the standard guide bushings about 10k miles ago, and I have no complaints. Of course, I'm not tracking or autocrossing my car, so I'm not super sensitive to changes in my brakes. I also went with cheaper Meyle rotors and Akebono Euro ceramic pads (ZERO DUST!!!!!), which did reduce the initial brake bite somewhat.Anyone has any experience with similar or same product? Comments?
It really depends on what you want from your braking system. I think you might be wiser to save up for a system like the ECS big brake kit for our e39s, as it will have been designed for high performance out of the box. Our e39s, like it or not, are primarily designed for comfort and daily drivability. However, if you want a firmer pedal and more consistent brake wear, with some extra stability and aren't afraid to do it yourself, this seems like a reasonably priced upgrade for the standard braking system. I, however, will be saving up for the big brake kit.Waste of $$ or money well spent?
This is what I was looking for.They may be okay, but they do need periodic cleaning and relubing.
A solution looking for a problem.
+1, the idea looks great and at a couple points over the years (when I was due for pad changes) I was going to order these (or one of the competing, but similar products) and did not, due to a few negative posts from folks that used them. I forget off hand what the issues where, but I think it did have to do with actually more frequent service or they had issues. One guy posted he even went back to the stock guide pins/bushings. I asked a couple BMW techs about it...they shrugged their shoulders, basically had no opinion...saying there were some advantages, but also some negatives...again, don't recall the specifics. Sorry if this post is not more helpful....my opinion is to leave this stock...They may be okay, but they do need periodic cleaning and relubing.
A solution looking for a problem.
Caliper deflection can cause uneven pad wear and less than amazing pedal feel.
When I hear adverbs being applied to brake feel, I have trouble identifying with those feelings.I have thought about getting those brass caliper pins...
To help against any slushy pedal feel.
When I hear adverbs being applied to brake feel, I have trouble identifying with those feelings.
But, while my hearing may be bad, I can see caliper pins, and uneven pad wear on my own vehicle.
- One user's example of a complete brake job with all torque figures, specs, measurements, fluids, decisions, tools, tricks, mistakes, suppliers, costs, etc., that it entails (1)
Here are my last-replaced rears, for example, which show uneven wear:
I just removed the wheels from my fronts, which desperately need new pads.
So, since I'm just about to start a front brake job ... how would I know whether my stock original bushings are in good shape or not?
Do you mean Centric is producing brand new calipers, or remanufacturing? If new, where are they available? I've haven't ever noticed listings for new, Centric calipers....
Another culprit for uneven wear could be a busted piston. This is the reason I rebuild the calipers every now and then - they are main safety component. If the piston starts to rust ever so slightly, or due to that getting pitted, the best bet is to trash it and buy a brand new brake caliper. Centric is manufacturing some decent calipers that don't break the bank.
I don't agree with "doesn't contact the walls of the caliper." The seal doesn't have the rigidity or span to hold the piston axis true to the cylinder axis.well actually the piston doesn't contact the walls of the caliper bore but rides on a square cut o ring , all the coating does is protect the inside of the caliper from corrosion for those that don't flush there system as most people don't, but a coating on the piston will protect it from wear that could lead to uneven movement of the piston
DoruRDL, so far I did rebuild all my calipers - the pistons were in great shape. If for a reason I will ever find a pitted or scratched piston, I will replace that caliper. A new OE (ATE) caliper is anywhere from 275$/side to 330$/side. Remanufactured are around 130$ or so. These are for the fronts.
Below is the Centric table with the equivalent:
If buying a centric remanufactured caliper, they cost around 75$ - 80$/side. Centric claims they replace the piston with new ones