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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

I recently purchased a Philips 35W 6000K HID Kit with built-in cancellers. The lights work fine when the engine is off but start to flicker once engine is on. Tried swapping sides but problems occurs on both sides regardless of which ballast and bulb is connected.

Here is a video I took:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPf0ee4Fezc&list=UU6nyzhOSKqbRMThnsgb91QQ

Any help would be greatly appreciated!_a_
 

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I recommend that you call the vendor from whom you bought the kit. Also, are you having any other electrical/electronic issues such as flickering interior lights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No I have not encountered any other problems. I bought the lights from a local shop (same country) in a different city's online store. They said that they have not encountered this problem before and hence can't give advice on what to do.
 

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Teufel Hunden
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Wiring? Grounds? I would liken this to issues one might have with audio equipment when wiring isn't big enough or grounds are not good.
Ditto! Or maybe EMI/RFI?

When I swapped GM TBI ('92 era) onto my early '70's AMC engine, I mounted the ignition module too close to the TFI coil and fought a bunch of crazy issues ("we've never seen/heard of that before"). On good recommendation from the interweb, I moved them further apart (about +1/2"... as they were separated by feet in the donor) and SHIELDED the trigger wires from the dizzy to the module with aluminum (AL gutter flashing spiral wrapped) and grounded one end of that shielding... purred like a kitten afterwards.
 

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Is your car originally equipped with halogens?

This behavior is common when retrofitting an HID kit on a vehicle originally equipped with halogens.

The reason they turn off when you start the engine is because PWM is used to step voltage down when the alternator kicks in.

You can either code your car for xenons which will remove PWM manipulation. Or power the HID kits with a relay, grabbing 12v+ from the jump terminal and using the existing headlight circuit as a trigger. With the latter method, you will have a bulb out warning. This warning can be coded out. But if you are already getting coding, you might as well just code the car for xenons.

Alternatively, you can use the appropriate sized resistor to trick the LCM into thinking the bulb is working properly. You will need to simulate a 35w load. What you do is measure voltage with the engine on at the headlights, and use the Ohm's Law to calculate resistor size. You will need to get a 50W resistor to dissipate the heat and mount it away from anything that can melt/catch fire. 35w off power dissipated in a resistor will be burning HOT!

I recommend you code it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've heard a couple of people suggesting that I should code it. Is it something I can do myself? I have taken the car to a couple of workshops and auto electricians and they all refuse to help me, stating that the kit is probably faulty. I even asked the dealership and they said they won't do repairs on after market parts so that means I'm left to fix this problem myself...
 

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bmwcoding.com

Or look into the coding section on this website.

It's well documented. You need to change the VO and add the xenon option code. I don't know what it is for E46 chassis but for E9x chassis, it is $522 and $524 for adaptive lighting. People rarely retrofit adaptive though so leave $524 out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks a lot for all the help guys! To code the E46 you need an OBD2 to USB cable right? Does it need to be a specific one? Because there are major price fluctuations between on-line sellers regarding this item...
 

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For E46 chassis, you can use a cheaper one. It's post March '07 builds (and there are no E46 builds past that date), that the more expensive cable is recommended for.
 
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