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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I've recorded the sound of my engine since to me, a perfect n00b, it does sound a bit ... weird and worrying :eek:. I've recorded it with my iPhone and then had to crank up the volume "artificially" through a piece of software so some noises might be overemphasized compared to what they are in reality (not that iPhone is a HiFi tool for sound recording anyway ...).

So, at the beginning of the recording I hold the iPhone just above the intake manifold where a noise like one made by a circular saw cutting a tree it can be heard. Then I moved the iPhone to the right (as seen from the driver's seat) and stopped somewhere over the engine cover where one can clearly hear a tapping noise (tack-tack-tack ...). Suddenly the engine noise changes and the tapping is now more subdued - that actually happened in reality, it wasn't me moving the iPhone away.

I did check the torque on all spark plugs and they were all OK. No oil in the spark holes as far as I can tell. No CELs on the OBC. I have changed both belts and the AC and idler pulleys. Didn't change the tensioner pulley yet since that one is different from what "real.oem" says it should be (found one eventually that seems to be right, pn 11-28-7-500-560, but that's another story) however the old one was not squeaking at the time (planning to replace it at a later stage).

Any opinions ?

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, it seems I have problems uploading an MP3 file ... I'll see what I can do. Suggestions ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you very much Eight Thirty :thumbup: !!! Yes, the tapping noise is very similar with the rattling vanos. And I have low torque symptoms as well. So now I'm considering getting the vanos solenoid replaced (200 bucks though ... :rolleyes:).

From what I could see on youtube, I am beginning to suspect the circular saw noise as resembling the sound of a failed water pump. Will that do ?

Will try to get a video tomorrow and post it here using youtube, just to be sure.

Thanks again.
 

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Hellawut??
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haha..... im awsome......


And failed water pump will cause your car to overheat.


if the oil temp needle starts to rise over the middle TURN your car off..... FAST. do not drive it.... these cars have aluminum heads that melt with the incresed heat.
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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Maybe these noise videos from the VERY best of E39 Links might help:
- VANOS rattling noise video (1) (2)
- Water pump impeller noise video (1)
- Water pump bearing bearing noise video (1)
- Alternator bearing or pulley cold-idle noise video [went away with a belt-drive system overhaul] (1)
- Alternator clicking noise [went away with a new alternator] (1)
- Unknown noise video (oil pump bolts?) (1)
- DISA (DIfferenzierte SAuganlage - "Differential Air Intake") valve o-ring failure symptoms video (1)
- DISA (DIfferenzierte SAuganlage - "Differential Air Intake") rattles (1)
- Air conditioning compressor knocking sounds (1)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thank you bluebee ! I used exactly those links (found in a different post) before suspecting the vanos and water pump :thumbup:.

Still ... because these parts are not cheap, would you mind listening to this MP3 clip and let me know what you think ? (managed to place it on a web site).

https://sites.google.com/site/ttcar123/engine-sound-1.mp3

It seems that the tapping occurs only after driving the car for a while. The "circular saw in action" noise, however is there right from the beginning. No problems with temperature/cooling thus far.

Thanks a lot.

EDIT:

Have just bought a new VANOS solenoid and the VANOS oil pipe (mine is leaking). I'll replace that first and see if the sound is still there. Wayne @ Pelican Parts says you need to remove the intake manifold to swap the VANOS oil pipe. Is that really necessary ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi folks,

Just came across another post saying that the pulleys should **NOT** spin freely. I have replaced my AC and idler pulleys recently but not the tensioner one which indeed was spinning **very** freely (I thought that was a good thing ... well, apparently not :confused:). New pulley expected to arrive on Friday - I'll see how it goes and if at least part of the sound goes away.

Meanwhile I noticed oil very "low" on the engine - hard to see clear. Was afraid of a blown head gasket but so far the oil looks OK/clear and no whitish tail smoke either. I'll be replacing the Vanos line anyway since it's leaking at the VANOS side but wondering whether it would be a good time to replace the oil house gasket :dunno: ?
 

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I'm doing my vanos soon, its a complex thing since you must lock the engine at TDC with some specialty tools. The seals to rebuild it are only about 60.00, the tools are about 100.00

Check out Besian systems, they are really good, or if you want a rebuilt unit, check out Dr.Vanos
 
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