A lot of cars burn oil due to the CCV going bad and they don't replace them. It is a glorified PCV and needs replacement. I hope you also change your oil every 7500k miles and not the 15,000 BMW recommends.I bought "Baby" new. Always changed oil every @ 7500 miles. Always burnt some oil. By 100k it was 1 qt every 3k. By 140k it was every 2-3k. Started noticing some orange foam on the underside of the oil cap. At 147k I started using her as weekends only.
At 148k I started hearing noise that made me think the Vanos was going bad. Checked oil and found it at the bottom of the dip stick. After hitting my head against the wall, I found the oil warning light stopped working. Replaced what was left of the oil and added a Lucas treatment. No noise from the Vanos and its run 2k without loosing oil. No external leaks ever.
Want to keep her going for a good while longer. Planning to put some money into new suspension and some interior work but want to be sure I have the engine taken care of first. Doing a compression check this week. Haven't seen any recommendations for timing chain replacement at set miles. Would appreciate any more thoughts on engine PM.
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As mentioned before, the CCV refurb with the appropriate attention to the dipstick tube, should fix the orange milk. I suspect it may start to pop up again once the temperature starts to dip again. It is a simple step by step process if you follow a DIY, but it is more time consuming that most.
Yes, you can get the top of the line German Auto Solution's rebuild kit for $85. I didn't and now wish I had. Just search DISA rebuild and I'm sure the website will come up, or check the wiki.The kit I got from FCP included the idle control valve grommet, and the gasket for the throttle body I think. But that's a good point to make sure and clean the idle control valve and throttle body while you're at it. Might as well do the DISA at the same time?
My old ZHP was an oil burner too. It burned about 1qt per 400 miles. I ran a couple lubro moly flushes through it and it would only burn a qt every 1500 miles for a short time, then start burning again as the oil control rings got caked up again. I did the catch can (vids on my youtube page) and it helped, but did not eliminate the burning.Advice to self: read the posts completely!!
How much oil does the engine use? Are there any oil leaks? The M45B30 engine (3.0 liter) has low tension oil control rings (LTOCRs). They need a constant crankcase vacuum to work properly. If you are intent on keeping the car long term I suggest you install an oil catch can in the "drug bin." Why? The CCV is poorly designed and a pain to change. I changed the CCV in my 2001 330Ci three times with OEM parts. It still burned a quart of Mobil 1 0W40 every 400-500 miles. I installed an oil catch can and the engine burns zero oil.
There's a mod (by 02pilot) that uses a vacuum line to connect the unused port on the CCV body to an unused vacuum port at the back of the intake manifold. It seems to reduce oil burning by increasing crankcase vacuum. My issue with the mod is that it sends unfiltered (by the CCV) vapors into the intake.