Polish recomendations
I would order the Zaino kit but i don't think it'll arrive at my house in time before this weekend. I was wondering what would be the BEST polish to buy at a store (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Kragen's, etc)?? My car is black by the way. Any info/help would be great! thnks! 
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The number one selling "wax" in America right now is Meguiars NXT. They also have a line of polishes that should hold you until your Zanio comes in.
alright! thanks for yur help. :thumbup:
Zaino, NXT is not polish, they are sealants.
Polish is an abrasive compound to remove swirls, scratches and small paint imperfections.
Polish is an abrasive compound to remove swirls, scratches and small paint imperfections.
I disagree.
What you described is a cleaner. A polish is a product that will enhance the gloss of the paint.
Some polishes can contain abrasives (cleaner/polish) but for the most part they don't such as a pure polish.
What you described is a cleaner. A polish is a product that will enhance the gloss of the paint.
Some polishes can contain abrasives (cleaner/polish) but for the most part they don't such as a pure polish.
:tsk: :eeps:
You guys are arguing semantics. Generally a polish (which people use as a term that refers to a COMPOUND) means an abrasive product that is used to remove a thin layer of paint blah blah blah. If you want to get technical that is really a compound, and a polish is a gloss enhancer/chemical or paint cleaner that may or may not contain abrasives. I think for the purposes of this conversation we can agree that "polishing" is a preperation step; the OP is talking about sealants, which in this case are, unfortunately, labelled as polishes.
Personally when I say polish I really mean compound. Polishes to me are any product that is applied to paint to remove marring or clean the paint and are not left on the paint. Last step products are sealants or waxes, not polishes. (again, this is how *I* use the terminlogy, and I think it is generally acceptable that way).
Personally when I say polish I really mean compound. Polishes to me are any product that is applied to paint to remove marring or clean the paint and are not left on the paint. Last step products are sealants or waxes, not polishes. (again, this is how *I* use the terminlogy, and I think it is generally acceptable that way).
:thumbup:
Polish, Wax, Glaze and Polymer Differences:
•Machine polish (Compound) are formulated to break down as they are used, gradually reducing in size, usually with levels of abrasives to remove oxidation, swirl marks and minor surface scratches, always finish with the least abrasive machine polish and `back-down' from one grade to the next. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to the more abrasive products.
•Polish (to provide oils and a high gloss)-Usually formulated with ultra-fine abrasives, with varying grades of abrasion, they break down as they are used, gradually reducing in size and burnishing the surface to produce a highly reflective gloss, renewing the necessary oils found in paint (if applying a polymer after polishing you'll need to remove any surface oils with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA).
•Polymer Sealant- (provides durable protection)-A non-organic based wax formulated from polymers used to seal paint with a thin hard barrier. They are very durable and provide a very bright, but flat silvery shine. This type of product is a compromise as it does provide durability but lacks the properties of a Carnauba wax lacking both colour and depth, and because of a polymer's inherent molecular structure it cannot mimic the properties of a Carnauba wax. If not properly designed, polymer sealants may crack, yellow or distort the optics of the paint surface.
•Glaze- (purely an aesthetic product ) that provides gloss but very little protection; it's often referred to as Show Glaze, made from an emulsion formulated from water, polymers and glycerine oil, solvent, abrasives (to remove minor swirls) Kaolin clay fillers (or similar ) that hide small paint surface scratches, abrasions and swirl marks, surfactant, colouring and fragrance. Its filling abilities usually wear off in a matter of days before the surface abrasions become visible again, washing the paint film surface will accelerate this process.
•Carnauba Wax- (provides a sacrificial but renewable protection)-A natural wax repellent, it forms a barrier that is a natural protection from the suns UV radiation, acid rain, airborne pollutants and acidic bird droppings, it provides Colour, Depth and Clarity that is without equal, but lacks durability. An ideal Carnauba wax should wipe on and the residue should be wet when removed to avoid surface marring, it should provide clarity (transparency) should be able to be 'layered' without becoming occluded (clouded) or decoloured and should include additional oils, which 'wet' the paint surface to give the
paint finish depth and a rippled liquidity (this is caused by the wax 'egg crate' shape distorting the reflected light)
•Fracture/evaporation temperatures): Polymers 350oF + dependant upon type of polymer , Silicone oil 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200oF dependant upon ratio's used, Carnauba wax 180oF, and Bee's wax 130oF.
Polish, Wax, Glaze and Polymer Differences:
•Machine polish (Compound) are formulated to break down as they are used, gradually reducing in size, usually with levels of abrasives to remove oxidation, swirl marks and minor surface scratches, always finish with the least abrasive machine polish and `back-down' from one grade to the next. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to the more abrasive products.
•Polish (to provide oils and a high gloss)-Usually formulated with ultra-fine abrasives, with varying grades of abrasion, they break down as they are used, gradually reducing in size and burnishing the surface to produce a highly reflective gloss, renewing the necessary oils found in paint (if applying a polymer after polishing you'll need to remove any surface oils with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA).
•Polymer Sealant- (provides durable protection)-A non-organic based wax formulated from polymers used to seal paint with a thin hard barrier. They are very durable and provide a very bright, but flat silvery shine. This type of product is a compromise as it does provide durability but lacks the properties of a Carnauba wax lacking both colour and depth, and because of a polymer's inherent molecular structure it cannot mimic the properties of a Carnauba wax. If not properly designed, polymer sealants may crack, yellow or distort the optics of the paint surface.
•Glaze- (purely an aesthetic product ) that provides gloss but very little protection; it's often referred to as Show Glaze, made from an emulsion formulated from water, polymers and glycerine oil, solvent, abrasives (to remove minor swirls) Kaolin clay fillers (or similar ) that hide small paint surface scratches, abrasions and swirl marks, surfactant, colouring and fragrance. Its filling abilities usually wear off in a matter of days before the surface abrasions become visible again, washing the paint film surface will accelerate this process.
•Carnauba Wax- (provides a sacrificial but renewable protection)-A natural wax repellent, it forms a barrier that is a natural protection from the suns UV radiation, acid rain, airborne pollutants and acidic bird droppings, it provides Colour, Depth and Clarity that is without equal, but lacks durability. An ideal Carnauba wax should wipe on and the residue should be wet when removed to avoid surface marring, it should provide clarity (transparency) should be able to be 'layered' without becoming occluded (clouded) or decoloured and should include additional oils, which 'wet' the paint surface to give the
paint finish depth and a rippled liquidity (this is caused by the wax 'egg crate' shape distorting the reflected light)
•Fracture/evaporation temperatures): Polymers 350oF + dependant upon type of polymer , Silicone oil 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Synthetic blends (Carnauba wax / polymers) 200oF dependant upon ratio's used, Carnauba wax 180oF, and Bee's wax 130oF.
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