Ok, I am a pretty technically inclined person, but before spending money..AGAIN...i need a few BMW experts advice.
Practicing Parrallel Parking with Daughter and all the sudden the PS went out. I got out of car and no signs of leaking from PS System. After some time on the drive home, PS was restored as if there was no issue. It did again come back...of course..when we were practicing parrallel parking about 1 week later. Did not come back online.
This was probably the only time the car has had wheel worked from hard to hard since i purchased it in Feb. Have had no issues previous to this or any secondary indicators that an issue was coming. After second failure, first 10-20 degree of wheel turn is managable, but beyond that, very hard to turn.
Went to Local Euro Shop, after hearing the diagnostics, parts and labor for just a pump would run me $1100...i asked if it was a PS pump..why would it be bad then good then bad again? Said could have just been getting ready to fail. I took their previous BMW expert advice and make the cheapest route and decided DIY approach was best option for my situation.
1. Removed PS Pump, Fluid was not majorly discolored..but seemed thin.
2. Inspected the Fluid for particles contaminates..none found from reclaimed fluid from resevoir and then pressure and suctions lines.
3. Purchased PS Pump for very low cost of $100 from Oreilly's. Exact same part just refurbished.
3. Insalled PS Pump, filled drained resivoir using Royal Purple MaxATF fluid which was recommended.
4. Started car, began to cycle wheel from lock to lock hoping that all my work in the 108 degree Texas heat would have been worth it. No JOY!!!
5. Trying to Isolate problem further,
a. i checked the pressure from pump to Rack by cracking fitting and having buddy start
car..signs of flow...and seemed to have pressure behind it. Tighted back up.
b. Pressure from the output of Rack by cracking fitting and doing same, start car turn wheel
and again, signs of flow and again had same pressure as input side.
c. Pressure check on input side of cooler, same..same as rack checks.
d. Checked the return to resevoir, same...checked ok.
e. Probably a newbie move, but jumpered return line to pump supply line..still no joy, just
different noise....stopped immediately after car was started.
f. Put everything back to working status, decided to drive the car to the High School
Parking lot and do some driving and turning....still no difference..opened the hood and
noticed that the Resevoir lid had leaked as if it was over pressured and signs of fluid
spray on air box and oil lid.
Questions and Advice:
1. What are the signs and troubleshooting steps to verify the rack?
2. Is there a rebuild kit for the rack valving, or do i have to do the entire rack/pinon?
3. What am i missing????????
Heading out of country soon..so if you have any immediate paths to truely troubleshoot with your brain and not my shotgun, you would allow me to give my daughter her 16th birthday present back in good working order prior to my departure. There has to be systematic component isolation steps that are way better than by shotgun and depleting pocket book as i have spent most i have on paying for nanny during my absence. Your help is greatly appreciated in advance!!!