even found a BMW spec sheet on where nozzles should aim
I just use a pin to adjust the nozzles. :dunno:
What would be optimal is a long dowel that you can line up with the desired location on the windshield while attached to the nozzle, so you don't need to spray to test where it's going.
To debug the washer pump:Before you go buying a new washer pump, remove the front right wheel and remove a portion of the wheel well covering to expose the tank. The pump is on the lower left side. First remove the fluid level sensor on the right side and drain the fluid into a bucket or something, before removing the pump. Often the pump and the lines near it get clogged with gunk. Remove it and clean it and flush the tank, then check the lines going up to the engine compartment and hood for any clogging. Replace the pump and fill a bit with water and test it. If still no sound, probably need a new pump. Check the fuse first, as you say.
To debug the lines:common problem. Most likely your going to need a new washer pump, just go to the plug and check for voltage while your friend pulls the washer lever. if you get 12V or more change your washer pump.
To test the fuse:Did you check all the lines? You have a crack in the line some where, like you said it could be your pump..........but the lines are a easier fix.
DIY procedure:The fuses for the windshield washer are in the top of the glove box. Open the glove box, remove the flashlight (if yours is still there), find the two white plastic release screws on the top of the glove box, turn each 90 deg, the fuse block will drop down (pretty cool actually). The fuses you want to check are #2 and #4. Both are likely fine and you will be going into the right front wheel well for pump replacement.
I removed the screws, plugs and rivets to allow the passenger side front wheel well shield to be bent back giving access to the washer fluid reservoir and pumps. The picture below shows the reservoir and pumps.
If your E39 has headlight washers, there will be two pumps mounted on the side of the reservoir. The one closest to the middle is the main windshield pump. The one closest to the outside is for the headlights. My main pump was frozen. The second photo (below) shows the replacement pump, the new grommet with filter, and the two types of plugs and rivets needed to restore the wheel well shield.
- When removing the wheel well dirt shield, pry out the plastic plug at the bottom and closest to the center of the car. If it is a modern plug as pictured above, the smaller section of the top will side out when you pry on it. This will release the plug.
- The small plastic rivets on the fender lip have a center post which is pressed in when installed which cause the rivet to expand behind the sheet metal. You may be able to bend the shield out once all the screws are removed and press the "post" out of the rivets from behind allowing reuse. I just broke them off and installed new ones. A pry tool like a carpet tack remover is very helpful in removing the rivets and the plug.
- You need to lift the tab on the electrical connectors to release. They release easily once the tab is gently lifted.
- All pumps and sensors are attached to the reservoir through rubber grommets. They all pull straight out with a little wiggling.
After replacing two bad windshield washer pumps today, I opened the bad ones up to see if they were clogged. As you can see it looks like they both got water in them and rusted out. One was the intensive fluid pump under the hood and the other was the one under the front passenger wheel liner. I did not have to take front wheel off to get to the pump. Turning the wheel to the far left gave me enough room to get to the pump with just taking out the body panel rivets and two bottom wheel liner screws. Now I have working WW pumps. I found direct VDO replacement pumps from Autohauz for 20 bucks each. They did not require any rewiring, electrical connections fit perfect.
My impression is this
The main washer bottle is in the wheel fender. This is filled with blue stuff through (in mine) a white topped bottle neck near the left suspension turret iirc.
This washer bottle (in mine at least) has 2 pumps with their own fluid pipes attached. These pumps push-fit into rubber gromet type things which are mounted on the washer bottle.
The first pump (larger in size) feeds the headlight jets directly (with separate pipes).
The second pump (which is the same size as the pump on the intense washer bottle under the bonnet) feeds the windscreen washer jets directly.
The high intensity pump on the small washer bottle under the bonnet also feeds the windscreen jets directly (with separate pipes, up to a point) and is operated every 5th or 10th press of the stalk (can't remember exactly how many).
Somewhere in this maze there are also heaters for the jets too
Here in New York, it's June!!!
Q1: Where is the headlight-washer "diverter valve" located?
Q2: Do the hood jets have TWO hoses attached to them?
The Realoem diagram confused him also.