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Discussion Starter #1
After doing the CCV and hoses this Sunday, the car idles a lil rough (randomly). Changed the air filter and the 2 cabin filters (as recommended by cn90, I went to autozone...got the Fram and cut it down to size). Then my "service engine soon" light came on yesterday. Is that a coincidence or not? Didnt have time to get the codes read yet. Also, feels like my car lost some power...but maybe thats in my head.
 

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Couple of things to look into--make sure all of the hose's that were hooked up are secure--with no air leaks--next--make sure that the air bonnet going over the throttle body and idle control valve is secure and seated==next would be sure that all the electrical hook up are in their right locations and also check and make sure the disa valve is airtight as well---check behind the intake on the drivers side--there are a couple of vacuum lines back there as well---you have an air leak somewhere is what I'm getting at--just need to find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Went to Autozone today and got the following codes:
P0171 & P0174

Did a search on the forum and got this info:

try this it's easy to do only 5 minutes and solved all your rough idle and check engine light problems on your (2000-2009) later or newer yes! all BMW E60, X3, X5, 325i,330i,335i,525i,528i,530i,535i,... check out the manifold adjuster Google this up.

That appears to have been the problem the whole time. This is what caused the check engine light and O2 sensor fault and misfire codes. listed below are the codes that are caused by a broken Intake Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit!!!

Ignore these codes after changing your broken or damage Intake Manifold Runner Valve/adjuster Unit these codes will be gone.

P0171 = Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean

P0174 = Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean

P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

P1083 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1085 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1

P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3

P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4

P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5

P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6

The adjuster's part description on www.ecstuning.com
Air adjustment unit controls the path of the air in the intake manifold, allowing either a shorter or longer runner length. A common source of trouble causing low RPM sluggishness and accompanied by a clicking sound from the engine bay. The exact symptoms.

Location on driver's side. I already removed the two T40 bolts (upper right and lower middle.) Then simply pull the adjuster unit straight back out towards you. ( 5 minutes)
After removing the manifold adjuster you can also clean your idle control valve (ICV). It's easy to remove the ICV 12 minutes job and clean it with the Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner!!!







I can feel the difference in the acceleration and there's no slight hesitation or engine rough idle and after clearing the check engine light it will not come back on!!!
That is only one of the possibilites, right?
 

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It's possible but what you have is system too lean for both banks usually means you have a leak in the air intake, check your rubber boot elbow to the ICV, or better yet replace it if you haven't.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's possible but what you have is system too lean for both banks usually means you have a leak in the air intake, check your rubber boot elbow to the ICV, or better yet replace it if you haven't.
Do you have a part # or a pic because I am not good with identifing parts...
 

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Hi ill_kuma,


That post and the pics were my problem. My symptoms were very rough idle to where I though the engine was going to die at any second.

When I removed the DISA (also referred to as intake adjuster) valve, the flap was broken. You can take yours out to see if the flap is broken or not first.

The new DISA valve removed these codes only:

P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level
P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1
P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3
P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4
P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5
P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6

I still have the other codes, although these:
P1083 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1085 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
went away with new pre-cat o2 sensors.


Good luck.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just installed new pre-cats few weeks ago...so I hope those are not the problem for me.
 

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When I did mine I recieved the second code P0174, found it be the vacuum line that connects to the bank was rip, quick fix no more CEL.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There was a very small crack on this part but it did not crack all the way thru so no leak there. Just put some sealant on it.

My intake manifold adjuster looks really dirty like this but not cracked:

Just sprayed it with carb cleaner and wiped down...looks brand new now. But how do I clean the part where the intake manifold adjuster goes into? Didnt want to spray in there and have all those debris loose.

It finally came down to checking the o-ring on the dipstick guide tube. What a suprise...the new o-ring was ripped and broken.:eek: Also, the old o-ring was still no where to be found...could it already have went into the oil?:yikes: How do I check? After replacing the o-ring again and applied some sealant then cleared the codes. No SES light so far after a day of driving...and car seems to be back to what it was before...however good or bad it was before. Lets hope it will hold up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Damn...it didnt hold up too long. Right after I posted the msg above, I went to start the car to go out to get some lunch...the damn SES light came back on and the car feel sluggish again!:mad: Drove about 10 miles to get lunch and 2hrs later I started the car...drove it (few mins) a lil harder than I normally do and felt like the power came back so I look at my dash and no more SES light. What the heck is going on?!
 

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It finally came down to checking the o-ring on the dipstick guide tube. What a suprise...the new o-ring was ripped and broken.:eek: Also, the old o-ring was still no where to be found...could it already have went into the oil?:yikes: How do I check? After replacing the o-ring again and applied some sealant then cleared the codes. No SES light so far after a day of driving...and car seems to be back to what it was before...however good or bad it was before. Lets hope it will hold up.
Did you check in the receptacle where the dipstick tube plugs into? That is where I found my original o-ring. It was stuck inside the receptacle to the oil pan.

I suspect your other problem is an air leak somewher. Have you checked the condition of your manifold intake boots? Check along the folds. These are prone to tearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I didnt see any other tear besides that small tear on part #7 which did not break thru...

My inside of the intake manifold looks like this guys. I want to know the answers to these questions:
What caused it?
Do I need to clean it?
If so, how do I clean it?
What happens if leave unclean?
Is it possible that my old o-ring (if broken) fell into the oil pain?

Plus, when I removed the DISA valve (probably also known as an intake adjuster?) the top hole on the intake manifold, there's a slight film of motor oil on the valve itself and all over what I can see inside the intake manifold. It has a very strong oil odor too. This has got to be a bad thing I'd imagine. Anybody know if this is a symptom of a bad CCV or is this a different problem altogether? :eek:

Thanks a lot,
Steve

Intake manifold
 

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Oil film probably is caused by a bad CCV, I think.

As for cleaning it, it would be fairly easy to clean it with it off the engine, but that's a bit of an undertaking...
 

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Oily too.

Hi.

That's my intake manifold...lol...:(

I sprayed down a paper towel with throttle body cleaner and wiped whatever parts of the intake manifold's insides I could from the hole (which isn't much.) I sprayed down the DISA valve too, so it's all clean now, no more oily film. I replaced my CCV yesterday, and confirmed my old one was bad...a little brownish "mayo" after I cracked my old CCV open. I think a bad CCV allows motor oil to spray into the intake manifold, which forms a film on the surfaces of the manifold, attracting dirt. One of these days, I'll remove the manifold and clean it better. (If there was a way to safely crack it open or on half, that'd be so much easier.)

The CCV isn't all that hard to do. It's 3 hoses and 1 "stub" that attach to the CCV, and most of the old hoses will break off quite easily anyways when you remove them.

My thread isn't a DIY, but observations on what I found. My main culprit (besides the slowly going bad CCV) was the broken hose from the CCV to the dipstick tube.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4726550&posted=1#post4726550
I'd check to see if there are any leaks on any of the CCV hoses.

Good luck.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi.

That's my intake manifold...lol...:(

I sprayed down a paper towel with throttle body cleaner and wiped whatever parts of the intake manifold's insides I could from the hole (which isn't much.) I sprayed down the DISA valve too, so it's all clean now, no more oily film. I replaced my CCV yesterday, and confirmed my old one was bad...a little brownish "mayo" after I cracked my old CCV open. I think a bad CCV allows motor oil to spray into the intake manifold, which forms a film on the surfaces of the manifold, attracting dirt. One of these days, I'll remove the manifold and clean it better. (If there was a way to safely crack it open or on half, that'd be so much easier.)

The CCV isn't all that hard to do. It's 3 hoses and 1 "stub" that attach to the CCV, and most of the old hoses will break off quite easily anyways when you remove them.

My thread isn't a DIY, but observations on what I found. My main culprit (besides the slowly going bad CCV) was the broken hose from the CCV to the dipstick tube.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4726550&posted=1#post4726550
I'd check to see if there are any leaks on any of the CCV hoses.

Good luck.
Steve
Yeah, those are you pics...haha. I didnt take any pics and mines looks exactly like yours. Anyways, I am still getting the SES codes P0171 & P0174 that comes and goes after doing the CCV and hoses...:mad:. I guess I am the only guy that is having this problem AFTER the CCV replacement. A generous fellow memeber already helped look at the hoses and stuff but didnt see any cracks. And we still cant find that old o-ring from the dipstick tube.
 

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Anyways, I am still getting the SES codes P0171 & P0174 that comes and goes after doing the CCV and hoses...:mad:. I guess I am the only guy that is having this problem AFTER the CCV replacement.
You cleared the codes after the CCV and they still popped up!?!

My only guess is that there's a leak somewhere else in the system. Dunno, maybe one of the intake boots?

I did the vacuum method to find my leak. I barely heard anything on the stethoscope until I put it on one of the tubes that run to the CCV. It only took about 30 minutes to get everything set up. Probably less if you actually know what you're doing...lol.:rolleyes:

Here's cn90's writeup on the vacuum method.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398284

And here's my thread when I performed the vacuum method and what I found. So that's what told me it was the CCV, which I replaced yesterday, with all it's affiliated hoses.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=408681&highlight=

It's very obvious when you hear the leak. I bought my stethoscope at Harbor Freight for only $3.99. Very handy tool.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You cleared the codes after the CCV and they still popped up!?!

My only guess is that there's a leak somewhere else in the system. Dunno, maybe one of the intake boots?

I did the vacuum method to find my leak. I barely heard anything on the stethoscope until I put it on one of the tubes that run to the CCV. It only took about 30 minutes to get everything set up. Probably less if you actually know what you're doing...lol.:rolleyes:

Here's cn90's writeup on the vacuum method.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398284

And here's my thread when I performed the vacuum method and what I found. So that's what told me it was the CCV, which I replaced yesterday, with all it's affiliated hoses.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=408681&highlight=

It's very obvious when you hear the leak. I bought my stethoscope at Harbor Freight for only $3.99. Very handy tool.

Good luck!
Thank you very much...very helpful info. Yeah, SES comes and goes after clearing...cleared it twice already. Will definitely try it once I locate a place to buy a stethoscope...
 

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Here's a spot I bet you haven't checked yet for vac leak---take you cabin air filter tubing and all off from the drivers side of the engine bay. Back behind the intake on that side are around 4 different spots that a vac leak can occur---you will need a flashlight and a mirror to hold back behind the intake to get an idea of what is it to work on back there. Might need to try the water droplet trick I came up with on the distribution unit to see if there's a vac leak there as well---check the disa valve connection where it joins the intake--you can use a piece of vacuum hose about 3 or feet long like a stethoscope--works just as good--and it's at hand most likely
You have a vac leak somewhere it's all in finding the bastard.
 
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