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PSA on Tension Strut Ball Joint Removal Tool

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11K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  Ralph III  
#1 ·
This job pretty much took me to the woodshed trying to get these out. I didn't want to pull the axle to get access from above, and PB Blaster, light heat, and a shitload of pounding would not budge the ball joint. A friend pointed me to (BMW Front Ball Joint / Swivel joint removal tool for E60, E61, E90, E91, E92, E93, X1-E84, X3-E83, X5-E53, X-drive vehicles there is an option for e83), and $130 later, I got each side out in 10 minutes. I don't regret it one bit, but I was thinking if there was any interest in others renting it (pay for the item up front, then get most of it refunded upon return), shoot me a PM.

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#3 ·
I can vouch for this tool. I actually pointed this tool out in dukedkt442's DIY. I used mine last month for this first time. Was procrastinating about doing this bc I don't have access to air tools (hammer) and was worried that I'd be stuck trying to use hand tools to beat the ball joint from above. This tool took all the stress out of removing that ball joint.

Agree! A rental thread for tools would be nice. Personally wouldn't mind a "For Sale/ Wanted" section just for E83 X3 specific stuff either.
 
#4 ·
Similar issue with 2001-2007 Volvo S60, BV70, XC90 etc.
The way to solve this issue w/o buying that tool is using a 1.5" PVC Coupler (Plumbing Pipe PVC Coupler),
about $2-$3 at hardware stores. Home Depot has it...

I wrote a DIY suspension for my 2005 XC90, and the detail is here...

DIY: Front Suspension Rebuild (2005 XC90 2.5T AWD with 120K)
 
#5 ·
CN90- was looking at your DIY. I skimmed it but it looks like you use the PVC for installation. This tool is used to REMOVE the seized ball joint in the knuckle. When they are seized, no amount of prying on the wings work and the only way to remove is to remove the axle and hit the ball joint from above. Chisel and hammer or air hammer. Some have even removed the whole knuckle and try to remove off the car.
 
#16 ·
That video is a tease. Any corrosion and that joint is locked in there. For most of us replacing original parts, if you can even get the screwdriver to bite, all it will do is bend the flange. Now, if you've had them out recently and used anti sieze, this mashes sense.
 
#22 ·
I applaud the guy for making his own tool but the time and effort it must have taken.... Squashing the 2" pipe to make it fit the diameter perfect. Going to his friends to weld the steel cap. The test fitting/ measuring. If you mess up something along the way, you need to go back and redo.
The tool listed by the OP (which I also purchased is beefy and strong). It's milled out of a piece of aluminum. It fits well and probably save at least 30 min as opposed to taking out the axle and hammering out from above. (I also didn't have access to air tools). No it's not cheap- but you can always throw it back on ebay and get at least 80% of what you paid. The last used one I saw sold for $105. I'm holding on to mine for now since this can be used for other vehicles.
 
#31 ·
I can't see it tearing the ball joint apart, as it works by pushing on the knuckle and pulling on the threaded rod that is integral to the ball joint. I guess anything could happen if the ball joint were severely compromised, but it'd be surprising.
 
#29 ·
I bought mine years ago and can absolutely vouch for the tool. I guess depending on how bad your ball joint is...anything can happen but I didn't encounter any issues. Just make sure you use hand tools and not impacts. Makes a tough job very manageable.

 
#33 ·
I bought the tool for $129 and paid another $45 for shipping. The tool worked for the first joint but ripped the second out of the socket… I ended up calling a mobile mechanic after the second broke because I was pressed for time and didn't have a good hammer to pound the joint out. It took the mechanic 5 minutes hammer it out… :/
 
#34 · (Edited)
Hello Everyone,
I purchased the tool and wanted to give an opinion/update on it's usage.

The tool works great and it's worth it. It's most effective if you use it as part of a process though. Spray PB Blaster on the ball joint and let it set for a day or so. Then apply a lot of pressure to the ball joint with the ball joint removal tool, while also firmly tapping it from above with a punch and hammer (outer edges). Having the ball joint under significant pressure while also tapping it from above will quickly shock/jar the ball joint free. You can then just tap it out from above or finish pulling it from below. Once you get it to break that bond, it will come out easily.

Our 530xi is a 2007 model with 260k miles on it and it had never had the control arms replaced. Each ball joint broke free within 5 minutes following the method above. I would have probably had to resort to heating the ball joints because simply banging them from above wasn't working. The tool and a little patience made the ball joint removal fairly easy.

Good luck,
Ralph