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Discussion Starter #1
In the last month, I have noticed my radiator fan working a little harder than usual. I have been hearing it kick on more often, and this is before the oil temp gauge gets to it's sweet spot ~230 degrees F.

I have not gotten any check messages, or warnings, and coolant reservoir is at normal levels.

I don't think there is anything different about my driving between November and December to cause the cooling fan to run more often.

Any ideas as to what could cause increased fan use?
 

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Have you checked the coolant level a bad sensor could cause the light not to come on and there’s hidden features in the instrument cluster just google your cars model and hidden obc menu. There’s a button pressing procedure so you can see what your coolant temperature is. It could be going up and oil temp stays the same or could be a failure of something in the system causing the strange behavior. First check the level when the car is cold. Second access the hidden menu and monitor the coolant temperature. Also I would scan the car for trouble codes. There can be faults stored and no warning light or check light on.


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Discussion Starter #3
I will monitor coolant temp on my commute home today, after checking the level once again.

Thank you for the hidden menu suggestion, i forgot all about it.

I can check with my OBD2 reader and ISTA/P when I get home.
 

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In the last month, I have noticed my radiator fan working a little harder than usual. I have been hearing it kick on more often, and this is before the oil temp gauge gets to it's sweet spot ~230 degrees F.

I have not gotten any check messages, or warnings, and coolant reservoir is at normal levels.

I don't think there is anything different about my driving between November and December to cause the cooling fan to run more often.

Any ideas as to what could cause increased fan use?
Your water pump (coolant) is dead. Dying. Been there. common problem. See my signature for a replacement. You may be ok for a few weeks but your engine may overheat and limp mode will commence. then you are playing with fire as the coolant will be too hot . get the pump kit asap . around 250-300 USD if you can do it yourself. video below.
 

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water pump is dying. fan did the same thing for a couple of weeks and then all of sudden car was overheating. $700 from an indie foreign dealer to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
water pump is dying. fan did the same thing for a couple of weeks and then all of sudden car was overheating. $700 from an indie foreign dealer to replace.
Your water pump (coolant) is dead. Dying. Been there. common problem. ... You may be ok for a few weeks but your engine may overheat and limp mode will commence. then you are playing with fire as the coolant will be too hot . get the pump kit asap . around 250-300 USD if you can do it yourself. video below.
Oh fun!

No fault codes stored. Coolant tank was at MIN level when cold. Did ~150 miles today, coolant was bouncing between 80C and 100C. The radiator fan seems to do the constant cycling soon after starting, but not after a long highway run.

I did just cross 73K miles, so I'm not entirely surprised about pump replacement.

I'll get the parts ordered. Thanks for the heads up guys.

edit: Pump+Thermostat+various bolts+coolant==$500.92 on ECS tuning.
 

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Check fcp euro. That's where I got my kit.

BTW mine failed when car turned 7 years old. Similar mileage to yours. Standard lifetime for this pump apparently. I've read many posts on here before doing mine. Very expected around this age. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks. The fan ramping up and down has gotten more and more frequent over the last week. I have parts coming Wed (16-jan-2019). I might start driving my truck until I can get the pump and TSTAT done.

Estimate was ~1500 from the shop I usually get work done. I will be doing the pump myself.
 

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Thanks. The fan ramping up and down has gotten more and more frequent over the last week. I have parts coming Wed (16-jan-2019). I might start driving my truck until I can get the pump and TSTAT done.

Estimate was ~1500 from the shop I usually get work done. I will be doing the pump myself.
Good luck, the video below should help you.

yes, it does get more frequent, i think the pump begins seizing or working hard and the fan thinks it needs to compensate for it...

i drove like that for a month until i got a hot engine message twice , freaked me out and from that point on i never turned the ignition until the pump was changed. overheating can totally destroy the engine unless BMW has some special sensors that shut off your engine in time. but i doubt it since that would likely pose a safety concern and liability issues. you'd probably get a HUGE warning to shut the motor off immediately
 

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Thanks. The fan ramping up and down has gotten more and more frequent over the last week. I have parts coming Wed (16-jan-2019). I might start driving my truck until I can get the pump and TSTAT done.

Estimate was ~1500 from the shop I usually get work done. I will be doing the pump myself.
Good luck, the video below should help you.

yes, it does get more frequent, i think the pump begins seizing or working hard and the fan thinks it needs to compensate for it...

i drove like that for a month until i got a hot engine message twice , freaked me out and from that point on i never turned the ignition until the pump was changed. overheating can totally destroy the engine unless BMW has some special sensors that shut off your engine in time. but i doubt it since that would likely pose a safety concern and liability issues. you'd probably get a HUGE warning to shut the motor off immediately

It somewhat does and no it wouldn't be a safety concern as it would prevent an engine fire. The engine or rather the dme will cripple the output of the engine to the point 15 mph is top speed and then all other functions get severely limited. I had the red message appear a couple of times with those being the results.

Also fun fact, I operate buses for a living and the new models are equipped with similar engine messages relating to temperature. Yellow warns and red cuts the engine off completely... I've had a few do that some year ago lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've decided to park the car until I can get the pump swapped. I had the fan ramping up and down within 3 miles of leaving the train station the other day. I have multiple cars to drive, so not a big deal to park the 535 until that pump can come out. I'll see if I can **** with it after it's out to see if it was truly bad or not.
 

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I had the exact same symptoms about a month ago. It was <30-degrees outside and I was driving on the highway, but the fan was ramping up/down incessantly. My car is at 75K miles. Luckily, I have a friend who is a retired mechanic, so I ordered the water pump/thermostat replacement kit from FCP Europarts for $400 and he only charged me a couple hundred bucks for the labor.


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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you guys for the tribal knowledge. I replaced the water pump and thermostat tonight and took a test drive. No ramping up/down fan anymore. Got up to full temp with no issues.

I was able to muck around with the thermostat and get it replaced without needing to remove the fan. I probably wasted the time it would have taken to remove the fan just fiddling with hose clamps and that damn thermostat bolt.

Upon removal of the water pump, it felt like it spun freely (minus the motor fields), but I did notice a shiny metal bit in one of the impellers. No idea what it was, looked wire shaped, maybe a piece of a small spring? Don't know.

Again, thank you guys for helping identify water pump issues early. :thumbup:
 

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I have the same issue where i’m getting engine overheated. fans coming on and off and on etc etc...

The problem i’m seeing so far is the heater only works on the passengers side while the drivers side blasts out cold air, and the temp data is not even near boiling point not even close!!!

Lucky we are in summer in Australia as the car only overheats when the heater is on, when the aircon is on the fans don’t even come on I was idling in my driveway for 20 minutes and the temp stayed on 102 degrees C. But as soon as I turn the heater dials to 28 degrees C the thermo fans go on and off etc... and the coolant temp drops from 102 to 93 and keeps dropping but flick over to 16 degrees C on the air con and the thermo fan come good. Any idea?

IMG_3727.jpg


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Discussion Starter #16
I didn't notice any HVAC issues, i only noticed the radiator fan spinning up when I was only 1 mile down the road. I didn't let the problem get bad enough to get any over-temp issues
though.

I mean, the cabin temps could be bad blend doors? Maybe it's worth while to try a coolant prime / bleed for ****s and giggles.

Check you reservoir when cold, make sure coolant is at MAX line, go in car, turn on (do not start), set fan speed to low (not auto), temps to high, then hold gas pedal down for 10 seconds.

You may want to connect to a hefty battery charger for this, as the self-bleed takes ~10 mins.

otherwise, what is your odometer reading / when was the last time the pump and TSTAT have been changed?
 

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Daniel T
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I didn't notice any HVAC issues, i only noticed the radiator fan spinning up when I was only 1 mile down the road. I didn't let the problem get bad enough to get any over-temp issues
though.

I mean, the cabin temps could be bad blend doors? Maybe it's worth while to try a coolant prime / bleed for ****s and giggles.

Check you reservoir when cold, make sure coolant is at MAX line, go in car, turn on (do not start), set fan speed to low (not auto), temps to high, then hold gas pedal down for 10 seconds.

You may want to connect to a hefty battery charger for this, as the self-bleed takes ~10 mins.

otherwise, what is your odometer reading / when was the last time the pump and TSTAT have been changed?
Thanks Kajer,

The coolant tank reads max.

Did the bleed test and let the water pump cycle for about 10 minutes which was fine. the cars ODO reading is 200,000km / 124,000 miles.
 
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