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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi!

I know that a new thread about ticking noises seems odd due to the high numbers of other threads on bimmerfest that has already been solved, but I HAVE done plenty of research before coming to the conslusion to start a new thread about the matter, trust me. So please hear me out on this one.

I have recently bought a e39 -99 M52TUB25 even though there was a distinct noise resembling the sound of valves ticking. As I thought it through, I recalled the previous owner stating that he'd made an oil change just before selling it and the oil being some kind of truck oil, I believe were his exact words.

The possibillity of the viscosity of the new oil being too thin would explain the rapid ticking noise coming from the header. And correct me if I'm wrong but with no lubricant for the valves and nozzles metallic ticking noises should appear from all of them, meaning 24 x the rpm, per minute. which unfortunately sound to me to be the case... :tsk:

Then my question is: is the statement above correct and, if it is, would too thin engine oil actually result in too bad lubrication of the valves and therefore explain the rapid ticking noise? :dunno: Common sense says it would.

I've been searching on these forums for quite a while now and have found that the majority of the people who are experiencing "ticking noises" are actually having more of a rattling noise, thus the selution being to change the belt tensioner pulleys, timing chain tensioner, the DISA or just tighten up a few sparkplugs.

What I've also discovered is that the sound heard in this video is the infamous lifter (HVAs) tick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjGdBmgVDuE

This however is not the sound my engine is producing. Mine is 10 times faster, but is also rpm dependent from what I've been able to gather and I highly doubt if the noise was coming from a few failing HVAs, that more than one or two would fail at the same time and therefore be making my, the more frequent, sound.

Another question about the HVAs is: is the HVAs ticking noise is both the higher pitch though lower decibel ( harder to hear, lower "sound") that is heard more frequently in the "background" and the lower pitch though higher decibel sound which is much less frequently, in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM8rQhzLWW0

I also appreciate any idea of what the problem otherwise might be, thank you!

Regards, Alexander!
 

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Chances are the truck oil was too thick. Meaning it can't get through the tiny passages in the HVAs. You need a thinner oil that can get into small places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh, so you think it's the viscosity is too thick? You might actually be on to something there, haven't thought of it from that perspective. That would also explain the ticking, with the oil not being able to pass through to the HVAs as you said. But I wish that that isn't the case because of the almost completely lack of lubricant, even though it's highly likely. I was going to change it in the coming days anyway, so lets hope not too much damage has been done.:tsk:

I still ask myself, who puts in some random truck oil in a regular car engine, I even doubt it's cheaper to be honest, but who am I to blow against the wind...:confused:

Thanks for the response Brandon002, it is much appreciated!:)
 

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0w40, 5w30 or 5w40 are the only oils you should be putting in these cars. Unless it's an M5 which takes a much thicker oil. Guarantee that truck oil is 15w50 or something syrup thick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Okey, thanks, I'll keep those numbers in mind when purchasing the new oil and yeah, the truck oils viscosity might not be great if it is that thick, in comparison to the regular you mentioned.:thumbdwn:

I really hope they didn't try to disguise a problem, only because of pure ignorance.:tsk:

Appreciate the tips, thanks! :)
 

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Just use the Mobil 1 oil 0W-40 as it is approved and used by many here on the forums. Experience: 5 BMW models for over 2 years, no issues, no oil consumption challenges. Other manufacturers have oil that meets these specs, but again no one should be running up to the 15K oil change intervals on 10+ year old cars.

IMHO: 5K to 9K or annually depending on your driving habits and peace of mind. Hi summer temps and LOW winter temps are much harder on cyl wear than anything else. (Except maybe -20 cold starts LOL)

More Info: https://mobiloil.com/en/product-selector
 

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ok, what's the special thing about it which they aprove of? That it's not too many small fragments?
It meets the specs BMW requires for their oils. Google search will give you all the info you need. Honestly, Mobil1 or Castrol Edge. Pick one. Personally I prefer the edge. I used to swear by mobil1. Then I gave the edge a try and the engine seemed to run quieter, oil consumption went down to almost nothing and it stayed clean a lot longer than the Mobil1. Matter of preference really though. Most BMW oil caps say BMW Recommends Castrol though and the Castrol Edge is made in Germany to LL01 specifications. Take that for what it's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just use the Mobil One oil 0W-40 as it is approved and used by many here on the forums. Experience: 5 BMW models for over 2 years, no issues, no oil consumption challenges. Other manufacturers have oil that meets these specs, but again no one should be running up to the 15K oil change intervals on 10+ year old cars.

IMHO: 5K to 9K or annually depending on your driving habits and peace of mind. Hi summer temps and LOW winter temps are much harder on cyl wear than anything else. (Except maybe -20 cold starts LOL)

More Info: https://mobiloil.com/en/product-selector
Okey, thanks, I'll look into it and then decide! So is that one the most commonly used by people on this forum? Because that says something itself.

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated! :)
 

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It meets the specs BMW requires for their oils. Google search will give you all the info you need. Honestly, Mobil1 or Castrol Edge. Pick one.
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Don't forget to replace the oil filter also (just choose a brand like Mann, etc)
 

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I agree it sounds like a collapsed hydraulic tappet, but has any other work been done on this car recently, like involving the camshaft or its timing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I agree it sounds like a collapsed hydraulic tappet, but has any other work been done on this car recently, like involving the camshaft or its timing?
If you mean by information given by me, then no, it hasn't been worked much on more than regular maintenance. But if you're reffering to one of the videos, none of the cars in the videos are mine. I only used them as examples to compare with my sound which I described. The videos are of cars that most probably have, as you said, bad hydraulic lifters/tappet because of the distinct slow interval (all the lifters won't go bad at the same time).

So it shouldn't be a problem with the timing since it has probably not been worked on and has only got 210k. And I believe the timing along with the double VANOS is a pain in the -- to change without a timing kit. :tsk:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Don't forget to replace the oil filter also (just choose a brand like Mann, etc)
Then I'll choose the mobil1 or the edge, might even give both a try sometime down the road:thumbup:

The previous owner said he'd changed the oil filter when changing to the truck oil. Is it safe to say thath I HAVE to change the oil filter or does the high viscosity not affect the filter? :confused:
 
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