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Discussion Starter #1
I have a rattle in my Z3 coming from the right rear when I encounter bumps and rough roads. I have replaced both RSM's but still hear it. Does anyone have any ideas as to where I should check next? Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
 

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Fuel tank baffle !! Took me forever to diagnose and not somthing I will ever do again . Tank must be replaced .Big job & not cheap. Pray that is not your problem. I lived with it for 2 years .Check my posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Z3 rattle

Thanks for the info, I hope it's not the baffle, will check the brake cable tomorrow.
 

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hardtop potentate
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I've seen posts regarding some sort of pad above the fuel tank that works loose. Apparently, it's easy to reposition it if that's the case.
 

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The knights who say Ni!
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sminsc said:
Thanks for the info, I hope it's not the baffle, will check the brake cable tomorrow.
Yep, just drive over the bumps while gently pulling up on the e-brake. If the rattle goes away, it's a simple 10 minute fix to tighten the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
rattle in Z3

Davez, took your advice about handbrake,drove the car over rough road(we have a number of those here in South Carolina) and the rattle disappeared when I applied the handbrake.Thanks to all for the advice and info. Now, just how do I go about adjusting the brake?
 

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The knights who say Ni!
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sminsc said:
Now, just how do I go about adjusting the brake?
Procedure is well documented in the Bentley manual. Full adjustment is 2 parts, first at the rear wheels, second at the handbrake lever. There's a good writeup on Ron's site: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/brakes/e36_handbrake_adjust.html of the full thing. However, you typically only need to do the second part- the cable adjustment at the lever, which should take all of 10 minutes using 9 and 12mm wrenches I believe. The adjustment of the parking brake pads themselves is really only needed if you have a lot of wear on the shoes. I did this adjustment once and the hardest part was peering through the lug nut hole and fishing with a flashlight and long screwdriver for the splined adjustment gear. Here's a pic off of roadfly that shows the rear hub with the rotor removed so that you can easily see the splined adjustment gear at the top, just above the spring. The pic should help you visualize how you need to poke the screwdriver through the lug nut hole to turn the gear, either to spread the parking shoes outward (tighten) or inward (loosen):

 
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