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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I have read and searched, that the brake drum can hold the rotor. I am doing rotors and pads, front are done, Rear passenger came off easily, but rear driver is stuck. I have adjusted the hand brake screw in both directions up and down and that does not help. If I pull the hand brake, the rotor will not move. I pull the hand brake down I can move the rotor easily. Tried to hammer the rotor by using a wood on the inner side and hammer the wood a few time. No luck.

Rotor is showing rust all around the wheel hug it sits on.

So, hammering and hand brake adjustment is not helping. Any other suggestion, I am on the last week to get the brakes done and it is just a PITA scale 10 so far.

Any suggestions are welcome.
 

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Hi guys,

I have read and searched, that the brake drum can hold the rotor. I am doing rotors and pads, front are done, Rear passenger came off easily, but rear driver is stuck. I have adjusted the hand brake screw in both directions up and down and that does not help. If I pull the hand brake, the rotor will not move. I pull the hand brake down I can move the rotor easily. Tried to hammer the rotor by using a wood on the inner side and hammer the wood a few time. No luck.

Rotor is showing rust all around the wheel hug it sits on.

So, hammering and hand brake adjustment is not helping. Any other suggestion, I am on the last week to get the brakes done and it is just a PITA scale 10 so far.

Any suggestions are welcome.
If the hand brake is loose then just get an iron hammer and keep hammering around the rotor braking surface in different spots all around until it comes loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Considering the rotor is moving freely with the wheel hub when the hand brake is down, and won't move with hand brake up, does it means hand brake shoe is not an issue and the rotor is just stuck to the wheel hub??? Three wheels are done and this last one is giving me grief. Not sure what to do, take it to a indy??? What will he do that I have not tried, except sledge the rotor that I don't want to....

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Discussion Starter #4
If the hand brake is loose then just get an iron hammer and keep hammering around the rotor braking surface in different spots all around until it comes loose.
You mean from the facing surface hamme it into the wheel hub? From the back I have only one corner where the dust protecting plate is not covering?

The other side came out easily, not sure whats wrong with passenger side....

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2013 535xi
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Drum and rotor do not to together, so I assume you mean caliper and rotor, the caliper won't come off or the hub/rotor won't come off?
If you do mean hub/rotor, take your wood and put it under the rotor and slowly lower the car, the weight will break it free.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Drum and rotor do not to together, so I assume you mean caliper and rotor, the caliper won't come off or the hub/rotor won't come off?
If you do mean hub/rotor, take your wood and put it under the rotor and slowly lower the car, the weight will break it free.
Following is off;
-Caliper
-Brake pads
- brake calliper cradle
- Rotor bolt that screws to the wheel hub

Following will not come off;
-Rotor

Latest observation - I think the handbrake adjust screw is stuck, it will not move upwards or downwards. The rotor moves with ease forward or backward if the hand brake is not pulled. If I pull the hand brake the rotor is stuck. So, I believe the hand brake shoes are gripping and releasing the rotor to move. But, I do not know why the adjust screw will not move.

Now, with all that info and already lost 2 days off work (as first my first brake pads were wrong and now one of the rear rotor is stuck). What are my options here? I am willing to pay for a solution...

With the suggestion above, are you suggesting, that put wood to the height of the rotor that is not coming off and then start lowering the rear and the rotor will pop off? There is enough metal on the rotor to cup the wheel hub, have you ever done this? What if the stuck hand brake screw is the issue here?

Worse case, if I file the lip of the old rotor and stick new pads on it, what is the down side? And next time I can take it to a mechanic and pray they can do something magical.
 

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I've not tried this myself, but I've heard a torch can help. Heat it up, center opening should enlarge slightly. Light taps with wooden block, and some penetrating oil. Liquid wrench penetrating is supposed to be the best, but I've had god luck with PB blaster.

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If your putting new rotors on why are you afraid of hammering the dog snot out of the rotor to get it to break loose from the hub. Typically when they are stuck this good hitting them on the hub face REALLY hard gets them to pop loose.
 

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You said you were replacing the rotor so take an angle grinder and cut a relief slot into the hub face of the rotor, then take a hammer to the rotor surface until it pops free.

Or use a blow torch to expand the hub's mating surface and pound the disk until it's loose.
 

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If your putting new rotors on why are you afraid of hammering the dog snot out of the rotor to get it to break loose from the hub. Typically when they are stuck this good hitting them on the hub face REALLY hard gets them to pop loose.
+1 That was my suggestion as well. Just pound it on the rotor surface from the front in few different spots and it will break loose.
 

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I would assume this is like a problem I had on a previous car.. there is a worn lip on the inside of the rotor and it's hanging up on the brake shoe/ebrake. I bought a "claw" and just clamped it to the rotor and the pin goes into the hub. Slowly turn it and it basically yanks it evenly. It tore up the inside brake shoes so I got a new one, but once it was off you could see such a huge lip of metal leftover on the inside. New ebrake shoes were put on and then the new rotor. Cutting and blowtorching might help, but I believe ultimately you might have to pull that sucker out. I bought the puller from harbor freight tools for like $40 I think. I've used it also on a few rotors that were actually stuck on the hub still.. with the puller and some pb blaster it popped off.. much better than whacking it with a sledge!
 

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This post flashed back to the first time I did a BMW brake job R&R - my former cars (Audis, VWs etc( the rotors literally fell off the car once I pulled the pads and caliper hardware. The BMW (an e28 I think) NO WAY - I hammered I pulled I penetrating oil spray I heated I cooled - NUTTIN!! Then I did some reading - to "discover" that BMW brake discs were held on by that little recessed screw that was hidden by thousands of miles or brake dust and rust! OH BOY!! Did I feel like a horse's rear :-( It took a little doing to loosen it up since it was married to lots of rust but once removed the brake disc literally fell off!

BTW - I made it a habit of using an anti-seize when I replaced the screw AND a liberal coating of high-temp brake lube on the mating surfaces of the hub and brake disc! The next 10-20 brake jobs were a whole lot easier !!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If your putting new rotors on why are you afraid of hammering the dog snot out of the rotor to get it to break loose from the hub. Typically when they are stuck this good hitting them on the hub face REALLY hard gets them to pop loose.

+1 That was my suggestion as well. Just pound it on the rotor surface from the front in few different spots and it will break loose.
This is how you do it. No fancy Nancy stuff. No unnecessary expenses on tools. Just beat it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4efGQlDreyQ
UNBELIEVABLE! Thank you very much for solution and the video to support the solution :). I was hammering with a wood from back yesterday without any thing and wasted 4+ researching and then posting here to you guys, to the best experts on BMW. I was afraid to hammer thinking I might damage the wheel hub, but after watching the video and all the suggestion to kill the rotor with hammer, I just went to the garrage, and pulled out a new hammer that had never been used and smacked the sucker 5-7 times, and it is off.

Less than one minute while I spent wrestling with it yesterday for 4+ hours :mad:

But, it is out :rofl: and I would like to say thank to all you guys for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
While the rotor was off, I did try to check the handbrake adjustment screw and it is stuck in the min position and would not turn at all. Does that needs to be fixed before I put the rotor back on? It just will not turn, the other wheel is fine, it turn up and down easily
 

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Handbrake adjustment is possible in several places. The handbrake itself. But, the rear wheels have a self-adjusting bendix type screw in the drum part of the rotor. You need to check the drum shoes and the inner race of the drum. You need to adjust the bendix screw. That, in turn, will affect the handbrake adjustment down the line. Have a look in newtis for rear parking brake adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Handbrake adjustment is possible in several places. The handbrake itself. But, the rear wheels have a self-adjusting bendix type screw in the drum part of the rotor. You need to check the drum shoes and the inner race of the drum. You need to adjust the bendix screw. That, in turn, will affect the handbrake adjustment down the line. Have a look in newtis for rear parking brake adjustment.
In my post above, I meant to say the bendix screw is stuck, will not turn up or down on driver rear. Passenger rear is fine.
 

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The bendix screw can be removed. Take it out...you may have to disassemble the drum springs, which is a minor pain. Once out, you can unseize it and clean it up.
 

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Smear antisieze on the mating surface of the hub to make life easier next time.
 

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One of my 545i rear rotors was rusted fast to the spindle and after hammering with a sledge I almost threw in the towel and took it to a mechanic.

I just wasn't comfortable on my knees hammering with the car on jack stands, and really wasn't comfortable adding a torch to the mix.

Then I remembered the gear puller I purchased from HFT for another project.

Locked this baby onto the rotor with a big washer used to rest the center tip of the puller on and started cranking with a breaker bar.

Comes off with a bang like butter with no pounding. Easy Peasy. Have used it a number of times and always takes the angst out of removing rotors.
 

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