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King of Rear Clunks
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was under the back of my car earlier trying to see if the clunking was from something obvious like a loose bolt or something. There was nothing down there so maybe its the shock mount. Maybe HACK and I will take a look again last week.

Anyhow, I noticed that both the halfshafts had a clean spot on em, and that it lines up with the swaybar. The paint on the sway itself on the right side is worn away in a small corresponding spot. I've yet to figure out under what condition it rubs (under compression or rebound), but it doesn't seem to be under 'normal' conditions, since I've had it in for 6mos and it looks like its touched very few times.

Now, I have the RDs using the factory endlinks. If the adjustable ones are slightly longer, this might not happen at all...
 

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I've had the clunking too, and when I changed the settings from medium to full stiff and adjusted the endlinks, and I haven't had the problem occur but once since then:eek: . However, the last time I took a look at it while putting on the ssk, I noticed the endlinks were a little out of position, so I adjusted them again and tightened all the screws. I noticed that the rear bar almost touches the halfshafts (about 1mm of space between), so I figured this may have been the case when I first installed it:dunno:
 

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KP said:
I've had the clunking too, and when I changed the settings from medium to full stiff and adjusted the endlinks, and I haven't had the problem occur but once since then:eek: . However, the last time I took a look at it while putting on the ssk, I noticed the endlinks were a little out of position, so I adjusted them again and tightened all the screws. I noticed that the rear bar almost touches the halfshafts (about 1mm of space between), so I figured this may have been the case when I first installed it:dunno:
I just went through a HUGE hassle with the UUC sways and clunks!! My local shop told me the links were bad and when they put the car up on the lift, they could just shake the sways and duplicate the cluck noise. So I called UUC and they sent me a new set of links that I had installed. While the shop was installing the new links, they ALSO noticed that the ends of the bars were rubbing up against the brake cable and making marks in the plastic boot covering the lines. :yikes:

After another call to UUC, it turns out that the bars that I own, were an early design that had three adjustment settings, instead of the new bars that only have two. It became a known problem that on some coupes that if you had you bars on any other setting then the most firm, there was a potential for contact. SO, the shop had to take some extra steps to modify the bars so they would not touch. After all was said and done, I ended up paying $150.00 extra for my TWO trips there and the extra work that they had to do to the bars. :mad:

Well at least now the clunk is gone. :tsk:

Anyone with the old three setting bars should check there brake lines for where. :(
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The RD bars also have 3 positions, and have a similar problem with the brake cable. But I set it to full stiff (from the middle, where I originally installed it) to balance out my handling, and it no longer rubs there. Its possible that the axle rubbing came about after this change.

And since I have the stiff factory links, there's no issue with those loosening. There's definitely clunking, usually when the rear suspension is 'jiggling' more than during big motions, so I don't think the noise is related to the axle contact.
 

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Rest in peace, Coach
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KP said:


Hmmm, this is the first time I have heard this. Two adjustment holes?
All that I've seen have 3 holes front and back...I don't know when they changed to 2 holes.

Regarding the clunk...It's hard to diagnose what is and ISN'T coming from the swaybars. I've had a slight clunk in the rear for months and thought it was the swaybar, but it wasn't...I tightened the right shock mount and it went away. When I installed Raffi's swaybars, it was clunking like crazy the first week, he brought it back and we checked the sways, it turns out the side he tightended wasn't TIGHT enough. Later another clunk developed, he took it to a BMW dealership and they IMMEDIATELY blamed it on the sways. Took it to a reputable mechanic (not me) and they immediately recognized the clunk and knew it wasn't the swaybar but the lower control arm bushing was worn and needed replacing...And they were right.

As far as the bar hitting the driveshaft, mine used to hit the lower-control arm (it's left two small marks on the LCA), I've since adjusted the rear bar to full stiff and the links to show only 3 threads. Kaz, if you want I've got another set of UUC swaybar links you can have, and we'll try and figure out the right length so they don't rub against suspension/driveshaft components.

Remember, the length of the link should corrospond with the holes of the swaybars to make a 97 degree arc from the horizon. If you are using the fixed length stock sway links, that may cause a problem with rubbing if you set yours to full stiff or full soft.
 

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Why put this after market stuff on your cars? I have read numerous posts about probelms caused by the aftermarket stuff from cold air intakes to computer chips to suspension mods. Why pay thousands more for a BMW to begin with, supposedly for the superior engineering that goes into the cars, then go out a put the aftermarket junk on?
 

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2001 M3:Stick, what else?
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Gs330Ci said:
Why put this after market stuff on your cars? I have read numerous posts about probelms caused by the aftermarket stuff from cold air intakes to computer chips to suspension mods. Why pay thousands more for a BMW to begin with, supposedly for the superior engineering that goes into the cars, then go out a put the aftermarket junk on?
Why, indeed! I agree, you should not attempt to modify your car in any manner.
 

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King of Rear Clunks
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
VinceTopasBlau3 said:
Hey Kaz, when did this happen?
I'm not sure. Like I said, I speculate that it happened when I moved the link to the stiffest setting (which also makes the vertical link sit at the 97degree angle that Dan mentioned). Dan, as much as I like the fact that I'm using the stock 1-piece link, a even slightly longer link will solve this clearance problem, so your extra set may be what I'm looking for.

As for putting the sways on to begin with, well, the stock ones SUCK. When even someone like TD agrees that the car needs aftermarket sways, that's saying something about the inadequacies of the stock part. As for a fully factory solution, maybe M3 sways will work... Hmm, has anyone looked into this?
 

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Rest in peace, Coach
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Kaz said:


I'm not sure. Like I said, I speculate that it happened when I moved the link to the stiffest setting (which also makes the vertical link sit at the 97degree angle that Dan mentioned). Dan, as much as I like the fact that I'm using the stock 1-piece link, a even slightly longer link will solve this clearance problem, so your extra set may be what I'm looking for.

As for putting the sways on to begin with, well, the stock ones SUCK. When even someone like TD agrees that the car needs aftermarket sways, that's saying something about the inadequacies of the stock part. As for a fully factory solution, maybe M3 sways will work... Hmm, has anyone looked into this?
M3 sways DEFINATELY will not fit. The M3 muffler design is drastically different and the swaybars are routed differently I believe.
 

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Rest in peace, Coach
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Gs330Ci said:
Why put this after market stuff on your cars? I have read numerous posts about probelms caused by the aftermarket stuff from cold air intakes to computer chips to suspension mods. Why pay thousands more for a BMW to begin with, supposedly for the superior engineering that goes into the cars, then go out a put the aftermarket junk on?
The ONLY way a car is built specifically to the way I want it is if

a) I own a car manu. company or
b) I own a multi-billion dollar F1 race team.

These BMWs are built so that they can be sold to millions of customers, thus some of the choices (such as sways and brakes) aren't always to my liking. the sways are way too thin and allow too much bodyroll, the brakes are too mushy, the clutch is too long...etc.
 

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The HACK said:


The ONLY way a car is built specifically to the way I want it is if

a) I own a car manu. company or
b) I own a multi-billion dollar F1 race team.

These BMWs are built so that they can be sold to millions of customers, thus some of the choices (such as sways and brakes) aren't always to my liking. the sways are way too thin and allow too much bodyroll, the brakes are too mushy, the clutch is too long...etc.
:lmao: . Someone may question your decision as to why you bought your car. No more clunks for me:D .
 

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KP, you are exactly right. If one thinks the brakes, suspension, clutch and engine on a $40,000 car are junk, then why buy it in the first place? Just buy a used Honda Civic and mod the hell out of it.
 

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Gs330Ci said:
KP, you are exactly right. If one thinks the brakes, suspension, clutch and engine on a $40,000 car are junk, then why buy it in the first place? Just buy a used Honda Civic and mod the hell out of it.
Actually I was joking with Dan:confused: . I agree with you up to a point. I wasn't into modding cars myself (didn't actually want to mod my previous car anyway:D ), but I agree with Dan saying that the 3-series is geared towards the masses (ala steering, going soft, etc.). Some of us want to improve things we feel are lacking, which is why I dipped for the retrofit, sways, ssk, and a few other things. No regrets, I feel more connected to the car now, and it's not as soft as it used to be (I felt the sport suspension was too soft, and the gearshift was a bit long). It's really a matter of personal preference. If I had an M3, that would be a case in your point where I would probably leave the car alone, because it pretty much has everything you need "optimized" (but I would probably change my mind if I had one:lmao: ). The cars are nice, and it makes some of us happy to make it better. Some feel it's fine the way it is. Conclusion? To each his own.:thumb:
 

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KP, I certainly agree with your conclusion of "To each his own." To me, the 300Ci is very good as stock for a daily driver, street car that mine is used for.

If I wanted to take the car to the track, then yes, I would probably make some changes also. But that probably would not be a factor for me. I really do not see the BMW 3 series as a track car or drag racer. Personally, if I wanted a track car that I could also use daily, I probably would get a Z06 Corvette. Before you start the flames, I know the Z06 doesn't have the snob appeal that many BMW owners are looking for. But, you will never mod a 3 series to compete with the Z06.

As you said, To each his own.
 

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Rest in peace, Coach
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Gs330Ci said:
KP, I certainly agree with your conclusion of "To each his own." To me, the 300Ci is very good as stock for a daily driver, street car that mine is used for.

If I wanted to take the car to the track, then yes, I would probably make some changes also. But that probably would not be a factor for me. I really do not see the BMW 3 series as a track car or drag racer. Personally, if I wanted a track car that I could also use daily, I probably would get a Z06 Corvette. Before you start the flames, I know the Z06 doesn't have the snob appeal that many BMW owners are looking for. But, you will never mod a 3 series to compete with the Z06.

As you said, To each his own.
300Ci? :)

First of all, I do plan on taking my car to the track. Second, the BMW 3 series is the PERFECT car to take to the track...It's got these rigid chasis and rev-happy engine and 50/50 weight distribution, yet it's perfectly civil on a daily commute. For those of us who can not afford a seperate track car (Z06, 911, whatever), this is it. The only reason SOME of us buy BMWs is NOT for the brand or the luxury or the image that it portrays, but the fact that this car is as comfortable on the track as it is on the road.

Frankly, I think you're missing out if you NEVER take your BMW to a track or autocross. You're only using 10% of what the car is designed to do. But you are right, to each his own.

Lastly, call me a freak, call me a weirdo, call me a car-junkie...Whatever. I enjoy working on these cars almost as much as I enjoy driving them and owning them. It's like a hobby to me, I always LOVED putting model cars together when I was a kid and now I get to work on it at a 1:1 scale. :D That's why I always extend a helping hand to fellow enthusiast in So. Cal to work on their cars for peanuts (okay, beer and chips). Hey, don't knock it till you've tried it.
 

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The HACK said:
Lastly, call me a freak, call me a weirdo, call me a car-junkie...Whatever. I enjoy working on these cars almost as much as I enjoy driving them and owning them. It's like a hobby to me, I always LOVED putting model cars together when I was a kid and now I get to work on it at a 1:1 scale. :D That's why I always extend a helping hand to fellow enthusiast in So. Cal to work on their cars for peanuts (okay, beer and chips). Hey, don't knock it till you've tried it.
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb: . Started with building Gundam robots and couldn't stop messing with things since that day:D . I used to have a nice micro machine collection but some kid stole it:( . Ah, and the Tamiya collection...:bigpimp:
 

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Actually, Axl (guy who got the first paddle-shift retro) here in Singapore has fitted E46 M3 sways on his Oct 2000 E46 328i. Yup. And they work just fine. No problems at all. :)

The HACK said:


M3 sways DEFINATELY will not fit. The M3 muffler design is drastically different and the swaybars are routed differently I believe.
 

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Blah blah bleh bleh. Newbie talks WAY too much.:lmao:

Gs330Ci said:
Why put this after market stuff on your cars? I have read numerous posts about probelms caused by the aftermarket stuff from cold air intakes to computer chips to suspension mods. Why pay thousands more for a BMW to begin with, supposedly for the superior engineering that goes into the cars, then go out a put the aftermarket junk on?
 
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