I'm not sure if I answered your question on the other board ,or not (it looks familiar...)
If you want to stay in the stock class, you are limited to R-Compound tires; different brand of shocks; alternate front (only) sway bar/bushings/links. There may be more, but not much that you can do.
I have put double adjustable Koni shocks (4) and Hoosier tires on my 01 M Rdstr.
Setting the front toe to about 1/4" toe out helps reduce some understeer and improves the turn in. You won't want to leave it that way on the street though, it's rough on the tires.
My recommendation to you, would be to spend the rest of this season running the car unmodified and on the original tires. Once you are good with that setup is the time to develop the car and yourself together.
Another reason is that race tires will mask bad driving habits. Become smooth and proficient on the street tires and you'll really be fast when you step up to the race rubber.
I've got to get a hold of the local LA BMWCCA rules. I was looking at Nate's post on the Houston CCA rules and on their points system, the S54 w/ no mods is already in the highest bracket. In other words, may as well mod the heck out of it - they can't move you up any more. I'm waiting on some LA rules, but your advice makes sense to me.
Edit: Got the rules -
San Diego and L.A. Chapters BMW CCA car classificatons
4 cylinder - stock A
4 cylinder - modified B
6/8/12 cylinder - stock C
6/8/12 cylinder - modified D
All /// M-cars - stock MS
All /// M-cars - modified MM
Novice (1st or 2nd event only) N
All Non-BMW's X
Stock classes may run any size wheel, any brand of shock absorber, any air filter, and any cat-back exhaust system. No other mods are allowed in the Stock classes.
Any other modification including but not limited to springs, R-Compound tires, and engine management systems (chips, non-original air intake setup, etc) will put you into a Modifed class. Please class your car accordingly.
Stock classes may run any size wheel, any brand of shock absorber, any air filter, and any cat-back exhaust system. No other
mods are allowed in the Stock classes.
Even though strut bars are not called out specifically, talking to a roadster guy at this past Sundays AutoX, they won't bump you to modified if you have one.
Randy's advice is very sound. In fact, I plan to spend some Driver $ before I go to the car $, but it never hurts to plan ahead.
So, having said all that, what are the best:
1) Wheels - Randy appears to have SSRs (that go nicely with Steel Gray)
2) Shocks - Randy has already recommend Koni
3) Air filter
5) Strut brace
Or to save even more weight, get a tunable SuperTrapp system and save about 50lbs over stock M Coupe/Roadsters boat anchor
OE exhaust setup. Save at least 30lbs over other aftermarket exhausts
They sound amazing and look like nothing else on the road, but do require some custom exhaust work. Need to find a quality shop.
Will have pics of mine next week. Requires custom work on the exhaust, but it will be way cool and save a ton of weight.
Until then, go here to see pics and install. His are 4" ending diameter whereas mine will be 5". Pipe inlet is 2.5" They look really
different but are the most functional setup available out of all the aftermarket exhausts. They will cost the same as a Supersprint
setup, yet they will weight about 20lbs less and be tunable for sound as well as torque/HP by a spacer system that acts on
backpressure to the engine. They sound amazing. Plus you get the added benefit of 3-4% hp gain.
from the same thread - another exhaust recommendation
From Steve Borsse -
The "castrated" exhaust is helped by installing a race
performance Eisenmann. The difference is noticeable. As well as a fifteen pound weight savings, the Eisenmann on the
M///Roadster comes with full diameter SS pipes that removes those stupid "crimps" that the stock exhaust had.
Steve is also using a Thunderbolt Drilled Strong Strut
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