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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I'm trying to help out my mother in law. She's got a 2007 530xi wagon.

Apparently recently some unpleasant AAA people did something bad, I'm only hearing the story afterwards so I don't have all the details.

Car wouldn't start, AAA tried to use a portable starter gizmo to start the engine. Didn't work, so they used two. Yea. Two.

So the car started, brought to shop, got new battery, a few things weren't working, had to replace a few fuses, I have no details.

So everything's working except the remote key fob won't lock or unlock the car.

I read the forums, I google, I'm looking for some way to reprogram the key, can't find anything.

Eventually I get the idea that "well, if a few fuses blew, maybe a few more did."

So I find that fuse 11 and 27 have to do with the central locking mechanism. So I pull 11, light in the glove box goes out. Okay, I guess that one's working. I put it back.
I pull 27, light in the glove box goes out. oookkkkaaayyyy... I'm not an electrician, but things are wired in series? What do I know.

I put 27 back.

And then as last ditch effort, I try the key fob again, and like magic, the car unlocks. Yay fixed. Okay, it was a computer and it needed to be turned off and on again.

I tell my mother in law to let me know if it goes weird again.

At some point it occurred to me that we never actually tried to start the car after I pulled the fuses (one never knows with all of these computers) so I left her a message to try and start the car.

I get a message a few minutes later: good news the car starts, bad news, the lock / unlock stopped working again.

I have absolutely no idea where to begin looking for this.

I'm not there so I can't test it, but it seems like either waiting, or starting the car caused it to fail again.

Any ideas at all?

Thanks.
 

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Sounds almost magical but wagons are notorious for having issues with the tailgate wiring which is where the module for the remote unlock function is located. Not saying that is the issue but it seems to be the problem 90% of the time.....Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I read a posting somewhere, I forget the details about a guy who had a current drain caused by the gas door lock solenoid and that was somehow causing the central locking fuse to blow.

That's not my problem because there are no fuses blown, but can one imagine how this might be related?

I guess my next step is to look at the tailgate wiring, and the little black box I keep reading about in the hatch spoiler.

Any other suggestions of what to look for are appreciated.
 

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I read a posting somewhere, I forget the details about a guy who had a current drain caused by the gas door lock solenoid and that was somehow causing the central locking fuse to blow.

That's not my problem because there are no fuses blown, but can one imagine how this might be related?

I guess my next step is to look at the tailgate wiring, and the little black box I keep reading about in the hatch spoiler.

Any other suggestions of what to look for are appreciated.
Probably not related. The fueling hatch lock wiring doesn't go up into the rear hatch.

The box in the spoiler has two functions. Radio tuning and remote entry.

The harness on the left has the RF cable for the radio, tailgate washer fluid hose and defog ground. On the right there are around 15 small wires that carry data to and from the remote unlock module, glass unlock, wiper motor, rear hatch unlock, power for the module and defog power, interior and exterior lighting, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info. Apparently the remote unlock started working again today by itself.
Of notable interest is that it hasn't rained in a few days here so it's sounding more and more like that box in the spoiler. I'll have to take a look at that next.

Thanks for the help.
 
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