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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am planning to brush the surface rust off as much as possible. I thought about underseal waxes like CRC Heavy duty corrosion inhibitor or oils but I already bought POR15. I like it because it is black and will look better black than with oil. Thoughts?
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i am planning to brush the surface rust off as much as possible. I thought about underseal waxes like CRC Heavy duty corrosion inhibitor or oils but I already bought POR15. I like it because it is black and will look better black than with oil. Thoughts?
If you're looking for a really great rust inhibitor, check out:
TC-11 13 Oz Aerosol Penetrating Corrosion Inhibitor and Lubricant - - Amazon.com

They use this to stop rust on heavy equipment during open-ocean transport to Hawaii. Little pricing but will save you time and effort down the road.
 

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Wire brush the rust and then use POR-15.
 

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Let's hope it's only "surface" rust.
 

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Over the yrs, I have found that at this stage it is a true waste of time to remove rust.

What I do: as JimLev said, spray something then brush some oil on the rust spots and move on.
 

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Cn90, I said to use POR-15.
 

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cn90, that works for a little while but never long enough.
If you want to stop the rust you need POR-15 or some other similar product.
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 105K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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POR active ingredient is phosphoric acid that converts rust to black iron phosphate. Naval jelly plus paint.
 

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It is not that, the rust is behind and everywhere like cancer.
The POR-15 at best is buying some time.
The oil-grease mixture can provide a layer of protection, it is not the prettiest, but it works for me over the yrs...
 

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Pretty sure every ‘60’s and ‘70’s era VW bugs and ghia’s are held together by POR15. Not a bad strategy.
 

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The real killer is rust around the jacking points and inside the rocker panels. That's what eventually killed my e39.

Check this video from Samcrac:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The real killer is rust around the jacking points and inside the rocker panels. That's what eventually killed my e39.

Check this video from Samcrac:
I am picking up my car after the rockers/jacks points have been restored by my body shop. will post some pics shortly. I will deal with the final "surface" treatment as best as I can myself described above.
The car is not going to a museum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am picking up my car after the rockers/jacks points have been restored by my body shop. will post some pics shortly. I will deal with the final "surface" treatment as best as I can myself described above.
The car is not going to a museum.
I picked up my car and was suggested to use 3M Cavity Wax Plus 08852 to coat the inside of the rockers and other inside areas of the car. Here is the link for a demonstration of how the wand coats the inside. Will post my new rocker panel work shortly.
3M Cavity Wax Plus demo
 

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The body is steel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
this is the completed work. I am not a fan of the plastic fender liners attaching on top of the beginning of the rocker. Many cars have the fender liner tucked behind the rocker. Easier for cleaning I think.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I was told the rust will return in 3-4 years. Im glad he was honest. It's not a full replacement. the sections of metal replaced were from another car that had interior metal rust proofing coating on it. I hired this body shop due to honesty and I was on a budget as well. I want the car to look more presentable than it was. The one previous owner made an attempt to repair the rockers/jack point some years ago. The next step is to apply 3M cavity wax. And insert the plastic plugs with grease on them where the under carriage shield go. I will prob. not replace the under carriage shields except for the ones around the engine and fuel filter. I live in the rust belt and that is the main cause of this damage, salt. Keeping the shield off will always let me wash and dry the area. And inspect it regularly although this is prob the last fix for this. Thoughts?
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