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I don't have the jacks and stuff to attempt this myself. Is this a standard repair any shop can do? Or do I need to have it done at the dealership? thanks!
 

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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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The BMW NewTIS procedure requires lifting the engine and dropping the front suspension.
 

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2006 530xi 6 MT
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I don't have the jacks and stuff to attempt this myself. Is this a standard repair any shop can do? Or do I need to have it done at the dealership? thanks!
What makes you think you need a new one? Unless it is bona-fide leaking and you're adding oil, you may not need to do anything except monitor it. Like, if you have a puddle of oil on the garage floor or the undershield and you are adding oil between oil changes, then, maybe you have a problem. Unless you have that, I'd just monitor it.
 

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What makes you think you need a new one? Unless it is bona-fide leaking and you're adding oil, you may not need to do anything except monitor it. Like, if you have a puddle of oil on the garage floor or the undershield and you are adding oil between oil changes, then, maybe you have a problem. Unless you have that, I'd just monitor it.
Anyone every see someone replace the bolt set and re-torque it to 9NM or even 10 NM from the standard 8 NM (+90 or 180 deg)?

Yeah I know it's aluminum bolts -- but a couple of extra NM shouldn't overtorque, with fresh bolts. Follow the torque pattern to reset the gasket, without actually separating the pan from the engine.

Given the extreme suckage of installing a new gasket, maybe for a $20 bolt set it's worth it to test if it works.

Just curious.
 

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Anyone every see someone replace the bolt set and re-torque it to 9NM or even 10 NM from the standard 8 NM (+90 or 180 deg)?

Yeah I know it's aluminum bolts -- but a couple of extra NM shouldn't overtorque, with fresh bolts. Follow the torque pattern to reset the gasket, without actually separating the pan from the engine.

Given the extreme suckage of installing a new gasket, maybe for a $20 bolt set it's worth it to test if it works.

Just curious.
In theory I like this idea. The real issue becomes access to the bolts. I'm fairly certain that you cannot access the bolts easily to remove them let alone install new ones at any torque setting.

mschumpert,
This is a difficult repair for a DIY project at home. Even if you have a lift, engine bracket and all the other tools needed to do this job.

If you are losing a large volume of oil, then I would consider having this done. Possibly attempt it myself, with the expectation that the repair would take two weekends to finish. I received an estimate for well over $1500 for this job. Since the leak is so small, I could not justify the expense. I just add oil every few thousand miles.

Good luck,
Fred
 

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I'll be in the garage this weekend doing the VCG and Oil filer assy gaskets on my N52 -- I'll check the access to the bolts to see.
 

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If you have an X-Drive, I believe there is a bolt behind the front differential, which would need to be removed for access to the bolt.
 

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Anyone every see someone replace the bolt set and re-torque it to 9NM or even 10 NM from the standard 8 NM (+90 or 180 deg)?

Yeah I know it's aluminum bolts -- but a couple of extra NM shouldn't overtorque, with fresh bolts. Follow the torque pattern to reset the gasket, without actually separating the pan from the engine.

Given the extreme suckage of installing a new gasket, maybe for a $20 bolt set it's worth it to test if it works.

Just curious.
So, I've been reading various items on the bolt torque (on the VCG job).

The VCG advice with the magnesium cover is to torque a Z pattern from the center to 8NM.

Walk away for 1/2 hour, supposedly to let the parts temp match.

Then return and confirm torque to 8 NM, then +90 deg in all, again in Z pattern. This last stretches the bolt to apply a steady force that overcomes loosening from temp variations and vibrations.

Not doing the last may be why you hear about VCG's seeping 10K miles after replacement.

The last +90/180 deg twist might also apply to oil pan torque (assuming they can be reached). :dunno:

Here's the oil sump torques: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...pair-manuals/11-engine/11-13-oil-sump/5YsRxdW '07 N52.
 

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The dealer a few months back quoted me "Replace oil pan gasket (Found engine oil seep) Caution Status $1,385.42 " parts and labor. I found that to be reasonable for the work involved. Since it's seeping i will wait til it gets worse and DIY it. Compare the above with "Replace thrust arm bushing (Found control arm bushing(s) excessively worn/loose) Fail Status $1,063.98" parts and labor. I found this to be NOT reasonable since they would have replaced the bushings only with the thrust arms on the car. I took care of this already with new thrust arms. These are prices here in Dallas, TX. Might vary a bit where you are but any BMW Indy (not just any shop) should be able to do this job.
 

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I have a leak from Oil Pan Gasket. I was told by my indy to just monitor it. He also said that this is one of those ****ty jobs that part is cheap and all the cost comes from labor. In my case, I was quoted around $800. I was told to just monitor it for now and unless I am getting puddles of oil in the floor and I have to constantly add oil, I should be fine.
 

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I have a leak from Oil Pan Gasket. I was told by my indy to just monitor it. He also said that this is one of those ****ty jobs that part is cheap and all the cost comes from labor. In my case, I was quoted around $800. I was told to just monitor it for now and unless I am getting puddles of oil in the floor and I have to constantly add oil, I should be fine.
Honest mechanic.
 

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Oil pan change is PITA scale 100+, I have attempted this twice and chickened out. Last time I went in all the way, but my lifting setup was not adequate to do the job and I do not trust any indy, better take it to $tealer.
 

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Oil pan change is PITA scale 100+, I have attempted this twice and chickened out. Last time I went in all the way, but my lifting setup was not adequate to do the job and I do not trust any indy, better take it to $tealer.
kskane,
I concur, the amount of work is significant. I would only attempt this job now that I have backup vehicles. Not sure that I would take it to the dealer, but I haven't found another mechanic in my town since the last guy lied to me.

This is a job that needs to be planned out in advance as a DIY project. If I did this job, I would consider replacing parts that you have to remove to get to the oil pan. It's too much of a hassle to only replace the oil pan gasket and not take advantage of the time pulling everything apart.
Good luck,
Fred
 
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