[trafficinfo33]

Hello,

New user, but I didn't see a thread with this specific problem.

My OEM Battery had originally had 720 CCA but I noticed it was cranking slower, got the battery checked and only had 590 CCA. Figured I needed a new battery especially since winter is upon us.

Bought a Durolast Battery, same specs as OEM (except for CCA which is 790). Went to Local BMW Specialist shop who installed the battery, used a trickle charger, and registered the new battery.

I left and I noticed my turn signal wouldn't turn off when I make a turn automatically. I have to manually tap the turn signal up/down in order for it to turn off.

Is this a possible issue due to the new battery? Was it not registered correctly? Any ideas?

I would normally say the turn signal switch went bad but literally immediately after the battery replacement makes me skeptical.

Thanks!

 

[ctuna]

Its not a good idea to use battery back up on these cars.

Its not a good idea to use battery back up on these cars.
When changing the battery it usually blows fuses.
You should show it to the guy that changed the battery.

 

[trafficinfo33]

Thanks for the reply. Just checked fuse 25,29,62 but they all seem fine. Showing 0.00 on the multimeter. Will be giving the shop that installed a call in the morning.

 

[stevenh44]

Ya, let us know what you find out.

 

[yca]

Hi Guys,

I'm driving a 2010 3 series (facelift), and lately the rear right turn signal won't work properly, when I turn it on, it blinks rapidly, and when I checked the light itself, I noticed that a whole line of the LED is not turning on. Any ideas? How to fix? Cost? Cheap solution?

 

[fdriller9]

Its not a good idea to use battery back up on these cars.
When changing the battery it usually blows fuses.
You should show it to the guy that changed the battery.

He didn't use a battery back up, he used a power supply on the jump terminals.

I do this all the time, never blows the fuses.

The fuses only blow if you use a power supply on the OBDII port.

Turn signals turn off when it detects the steering angle sensor has completed a turn.

There is no switch. The SAS is an optical disc and a laser eye that picks up the position of the wheel.

Do you have ABS, DTC, or brake lights on the dash?

Is your car xDrive?

When you remove power from the car, the SAS needs to be initialized by turning your wheel lock to lock. This process is NOT the same as calibration which must be done with a diagnostic tool. But putting a power supply on the car before removing the battery saves you from having to do the initialization procedure.

Have the shop recalibrate the SAS if you don't have lights on.

 

[fdriller9]

Hi Guys,

I'm driving a 2010 3 series (facelift), and lately the rear right turn signal won't work properly, when I turn it on, it blinks rapidly, and when I checked the light itself, I noticed that a whole line of the LED is not turning on. Any ideas? How to fix? Cost? Cheap solution?

Replace the housing. There LED taillights are not serviceable.

You can easily find a used unit on eBay for under $125.

 

[trafficinfo33]

Fdriller9

Ya just used power supply on the jump terminals.

Don't have any abs, dtc, or brake lights on.

The car is xdrive.

I will try to initialize the SAS and let you know result!

Thanks for the reply
-Daniel

 

[fdriller9]

Fdriller9

Ya just used power supply on the jump terminals.

Don't have any abs, dtc, or brake lights on.

The car is xdrive.

I will try to initialize the SAS and let you know result!

Thanks for the reply
-Daniel

If you want to try the initialization procedure.

Remove the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes. Then reconnect.

When you start the car, you will have 4x4, ABS, DTC, etc errors.

Turn your steering wheel lock to lock and the errors should go away. If they don't, drive in circles at full lock, changing direction after completed 360 degrees, until the error goes away.

 

[trafficinfo33]

Okay so I called the shop, they wanted me to come in to recalibrate the sensor. I went in and now its better but not perfect.

When I make a traditional full turn, the signal turns off when I am straight again, but only when I am fully straight. Different but okay.

But when I change lanes it doesn't automatically turn off, but not sure if it ever did. One of those things I never noticed.

fdriller9 - You think I should still try to reinitialize still? or not?

Thanks again,
-Daniel

 

[ptrcd003]

Okay so I called the shop, they wanted me to come in to recalibrate the sensor. I went in and now its better but not perfect.

When I make a traditional full turn, the signal turns off when I am straight again, but only when I am fully straight. Different but okay.

But when I change lanes it doesn't automatically turn off, but not sure if it ever did. One of those things I never noticed.

fdriller9 - You think I should still try to reinitialize still? or not?

Thanks again,
-Daniel

Is this your first car ever? When have turn signals ever turned off after you've made a lane change...how would the car know the difference between a lane change and a traditional full turn? Basic logic tells you that is impossible. Besides, that's what the triple turn signal is for.

 

[trafficinfo33]

Ha. Sorry. Ya its not my first car. I was being paranoid but now after driving the car for a couple days, the turn signal is fine.

But it developed a new slight issue. Maybe every 10th right turn, the signal flashes twice as fast. I know that generally means a bulb is out, but if a bulb was out, wouldn't if flash like that every time? Also this just started when they fixed the calibration so not sure what is causing it.