Bimmerfest BMW banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 97 2.8L with 111K and it's about time to change the front brakes/rotors/wheel bearings. I know the slotted/drilled rotors look cool but are they worth the extra costs for a daily street driver? Also is there a different type of pad you should used with a slotted/drilled rotor? I've heard they tend to eat up brake pads faster than smooth rotors.

Thanks for the input!
 

·
Investigative Tinkerer
Joined
·
5,011 Posts
Mike in Ohio said:
I have a 97 2.8L with 111K and it's about time to change the front brakes/rotors/wheel bearings. I know the slotted/drilled rotors look cool but are they worth the extra costs for a daily street driver? Also is there a different type of pad you should used with a slotted/drilled rotor? I've heard they tend to eat up brake pads faster than smooth rotors.

Thanks for the input!
When I first got the 99 M Rdstr, I asked Mike Hughes (Team Spartanburg Racing) about brakes. His repeated response was, and I quote, "if you want to stop, use BMW brakes".

My 99 still has the original pads/rotors and 68,000 miles, as does the 01 at 32,000 miles.

Save your money to go towards a TCK suspension setup instead ;)
 

·
A Clean Windshield
Joined
·
2,245 Posts
I agree with Randy. But I have changed my Front rotors to BMW E36 Motorsport rotors and Axxis dustless pads. Very Happy with that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I finally changed my front pads after seven seasons of autocross and about fifteen track days and about 36000 miles overall. I replaced with stock BMW pads. They work fine for what I do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
523 Posts
I went with the Brembo "stock" rotors without any slots or holes and use Axxis pads. No complaints and I drive it somewhat aggressively. Prior to making my purchase decision, I did quite a bit of searching of threads on this forum and came to the conclusion that the drilled/slotted rotors are more "eye candy" than functional. Your mileage may vary.
 

·
M Mad
Joined
·
10,479 Posts
The only trouble I have with BMW pads is the dust. There are pads that work as well but don't require virtually daily wheel cleaning.

ALthough I have gotten stock pads to pad fade pretty heavily in my E46 M3. The same car running Mintex red box pads (I was too lazy to change to my normal Coll Willy track pads) smoked enough to see th trail of somke inteh rear veiw, but never went away. ANd very little dust, and what you get is pretty light colored.
 

·
Officially Weird
Joined
·
1,637 Posts
I think I used PBR deluxe pads on my M3, the reduced dust was GREATLY appreciated.

You might consider going with slotted rotors if it rains a lot there. They aren't supposed to eat pads like drilled rotors do, and none of the cracking issues, but many of the advantages. I find that the coupe's brakes still have good initial bite in the rain, the E36 M3 had NO initial bite in the rain, to the point of being scary.
 

·
M Mad
Joined
·
10,479 Posts
Slotted eats pads faster than drilled. Drilled just crack.

For street, stick with plain rotors. For racing, it depends on the rules and what you actually need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
brake rotors

I put drilled and slotted rotors on my 01 MCoupe. I live just a few miles from the BMW plant and the guy who supposedly made the rotors for Team Spartanburg made mine. He counter sunk the drilled holes to stop the cracking. He would only work on new rotors. Mine were Brembo.
 

·
Ich bin ein Bimmerer
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
I've heard some good reviews about the Euro floating ///M rotors, and was thinking of getting those for the black car. Though it's rarely driven hard enough to warrant them. Eh, maybe after the 3.5 HFM upgrade...
 

·
Investigative Tinkerer
Joined
·
5,011 Posts
MyCoupe said:
I put drilled and slotted rotors on my 01 MCoupe. I live just a few miles from the BMW plant and the guy who supposedly made the rotors for Team Spartanburg made mine. He counter sunk the drilled holes to stop the cracking. He would only work on new rotors. Mine were Brembo.
I've always been led to believe that the machining process needs to be done prior to final heat treating.

Funny, but Mark Hughes emphasized (over and over) to me, that if I wanted to stop, keep the (OEM) BMW brakes. I wanted to go for the bling, but he convinced me not to. Mark was also the first one to tip me off about the differential mount, so I'm betting that BMW was made aware of that issue at least five (5) years ago.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top