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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 99 e46 328i with problems that i cant identify. When i'm at idle in neutral and rev it up to about 5,000 rpm the needle on the rpm gauge do not go up smoothly. Also when im accelerating from a stop its not a smooth acceleration :mad: . When i took off my oil cap i hear a weird noise when its running. I put my hand over it and it stops. The oil hole has a large suction when i stuck my hand over it. Could this mean that my Crankcase vent valve is bad? Would this be the reason for poor acceleration? Also i just replaced my MAF and i cleared my MIL and it came on when i accelerated hard again with P 0101. Every time i start it with the new MAF the idle jumps up and down then after a few seconds its normal. I believe it could be a leaking hose but i couldnt find one. Could this mean that my Air Idle Control Valve is bad? Could this be the reason for rough acceleration? I will be replacing my seals for the Vanos so i will see if that may be the problem.

HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED I MISS MY BABY RUNNING WELL
 

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I have a 99 e46 328i with problems that i cant identify. When i'm at idle in neutral and rev it up to about 5,000 rpm the needle on the rpm gauge do not go up smoothly. Also when im accelerating from a stop its not a smooth acceleration :mad: . When i took off my oil cap i hear a weird noise when its running. I put my hand over it and it stops. The oil hole has a large suction when i stuck my hand over it. Could this mean that my Crankcase vent valve is bad? Would this be the reason for poor acceleration? Also i just replaced my MAF and i cleared my MIL and it came on when i accelerated hard again with P 0101. Every time i start it with the new MAF the idle jumps up and down then after a few seconds its normal. I believe it could be a leaking hose but i couldnt find one. Could this mean that my Air Idle Control Valve is bad? Could this be the reason for rough acceleration? I will be replacing my seals for the Vanos so i will see if that may be the problem.

HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED I MISS MY BABY RUNNING WELL
How many miles on your car? Recent tune-up? Air filter, fuel filter? Plugs? Why did you replace the maf?(it's pretty expensive). Replace the cvv and associated hoses, (see Lberts diy).While your at it clean the throttle body and idle control valve. Replace that lower intake boot also , a good source of an air leak, the icv boot branches off of it and they all seem distorted/cracked from heat and vibration. Check out your DISA also- Solidjake did a nice video diy on it. Post progress, good luck PS the vanos upgrade is definetly in order, but the other stuff should be up to par to realize the full effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My car has 188,000 miles on it i have had a recent tune up new coils, new spark plugs, oil change, air filter. I replaced MAF because my p0101 code came on and said it was MAF. I think the Idle Control Valve may be part of the reason for that code according to some online forums. Even after i replaced the MAF sensor the code came back on when i got into the higher RPMs. I did actually look at the boot behind the MAF sensor and saw a crack where another hose attached. I believe that hose may be attached to the ICV (Not Sure though).
 

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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=411362

Some good advice in there for checking for a vacuum leak, which IMO is what you have. Rough running, unstable idle, etc, are usually caused by a vacuum leak when all else is in good working order.

If you have a crack as u say, fix that!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the great advice!! Does any one know where i can get all these parts for good deals. The ccv and the hoses, and the boots behind the MAF.
 

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Thanks for all the great advice!! Does any one know where i can get all these parts for good deals. The ccv and the hoses, and the boots behind the MAF.
AutohausAZ.com has great prices, free shipping on orders of $50 or more, and no sales tax unless you live in Arizona. I just ordered some stuff from them this morning.
 

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try this it's easy to do only 5 minutes and solved all your rough idle and check engine light problems on your (2000-2009) later or newer yes! all BMW E60, X3, X5, 325i,330i,335i,525i,528i,530i,535i,... check out the manifold adjuster Google this up.

That appears to have been the problem the whole time. This is what caused the check engine light and O2 sensor fault and misfire codes. listed below are the codes that are caused by a broken Intake Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit!!!

Ignore these codes after changing your broken or damage Intake Manifold Runner Valve/adjuster Unit these codes will be gone.

P0171 = Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean

P0174 = Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean

P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

P1083 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1085 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1

P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3

P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4

P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5

P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6

The adjuster's part description on www.ecstuning.com
Air adjustment unit controls the path of the air in the intake manifold, allowing either a shorter or longer runner length. A common source of trouble causing low RPM sluggishness and accompanied by a clicking sound from the engine bay. The exact symptoms.

Location on driver's side. I already removed the two T40 bolts (upper right and lower middle.) Then simply pull the adjuster unit straight back out towards you. ( 5 minutes)
After removing the manifold adjuster you can also clean your idle control valve (ICV). It's easy to remove the ICV 12 minutes job and clean it with the Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner!!!







I can feel the difference in the acceleration and there's no slight hesitation or engine rough idle and after clearing the check engine light it will not come back on!!!
 

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big thanks

Its deja vu all over again.
I swear I've the post above in four different threads.
Yahh thanks for your post I just wanted to past the info down to help others who are experiencing the same problem on the newer BMW like the E60 n E90. This was simple and help solved the rough engine idle!!! Works. Credit to the guy that post this before me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I took off the Idle control valve and cleaned it with brake cleaner. The piece inside the (ICV) was stuck with gunk. Then i told a shop what i had done and they said i should have use electrical spay cleaner because brake cleaner will destroy some parts in the (ICV). I also cleaned my K&N air filter and the throttle body while i everything was apart. I also know for a fact that my Crankcase vent valve is shot. I tried seafoam in the crankcase, and sprayed carb cleaner down the CCV line above the vanos as the directions had said. NO LUCK. The parts are $270 from BMW and that includes the hoses as well... I am going to try and get this project started soon.. I also am going to do my vanos at the same time if there is enough.
 

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The 99-00 M52TU engine DISA doesn't fail. It's a different design than the 01+ DISA units that are known for the flap failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I researched bad Crankcase vent Valve symptoms and found what i was looking for. During Wide Open Throttle in any gear the car vibrates as if it where cutting in and out extremely fast. The solution Is A bad Crankcase Vent Valve or hoses. This Has been driving me F&*&ing crazy.. I know that my Crankcase Vent Valve is bad from several test.. 1) opening up the oil fill cap when running and it begins to make a duck sound. 2) When i put the cap back on it stops. 3) When i take out the oil dipstick the noise is back. 4) when i place my hand over the removed oil fill cap a large suction is created meaning the (CCV) is stuck open. I will Post when i finish the project if there are any helpful tips on replacing the hoses and the (CCV) please let me know...
 

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I researched bad Crankcase vent Valve symptoms and found what i was looking for. During Wide Open Throttle in any gear the car vibrates as if it where cutting in and out extremely fast. The solution Is A bad Crankcase Vent Valve or hoses. This Has been driving me F&*&ing crazy.. I know that my Crankcase Vent Valve is bad from several test.. 1) opening up the oil fill cap when running and it begins to make a duck sound. 2) When i put the cap back on it stops. 3) When i take out the oil dipstick the noise is back. 4) when i place my hand over the removed oil fill cap a large suction is created meaning the (CCV) is stuck open. I will Post when i finish the project if there are any helpful tips on replacing the hoses and the (CCV) please let me know...
Here's some info I've saved on doing the CCV/oil separator.....

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=339972

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=9035721#post9035721
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I replace my crankcase vent valve yesterday along with cleaning the electrical connectors and my throttle body. It took me a little longer than I had expected do to a careless mistake. I didnt plug the most important wire in well enough, that attaches to the throttle body. My car wouldnt idle smooth, check engine light, asc light, i couldnt push the throttle or it would die ahahahah frusterating. I had to take off most of the parts again and find my problem. It was not a extremely difficult job just time consuming. Definitely study how the hoses go on to the oil seperator, also you should probably most likely get all new hoses for sure. I did not have to take of my intake manifold. Also a magnet is a life saver i dropped so many tools over and over spent most of my time looking for them. I cleaned the ICV again with electrical Cleaner. I cleaned my air filter but my car still is having problems with smooth acceleration. My MAF sensor light went off again. I have cleaned it several times still not fixed. Where is a good place to buy one for a good price? There is a little crack behind the MAF sensor where it look like the hose goes to the brake res. I am going to replace it but does anyone think it will effect the MAF sensor. (Very small hole)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I finally changed the VANOS seals WOW!!! Incredible difference..... Not to hard of a job just a little time consuming luckly nothing went wrong (Thats a first) ... I can tell a HUGE difference in low end torque i can drive in higher gears than usual with out shuttering. My car is running good again thanks for the help...
 

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hey so how much did all this cost for you, i just got 1999 bmw 328i, and it has the same probs. Do you have a step by step, or can you make me one?
 
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