BimmerFest BMW Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2003 745li for the last few days has been running bad and idling rough ,so i did a check with OBD and it said misfire cylinder 1,2,3,4 ,6 and 8 , so I replaced all coil packs and plugs ...... But still idling rough with my check engine light on please help thank you in advance all .


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok this is what I have it seems to be all on one side , what I need to know is I've changed all my plugs and coils ..... Could my fuel injector be the problem please help .


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
You have a code for the cam shaft sensor on bank 1. I would start their. You have 2 sensors on each side inlet and exhaust. Have you checked for any air leaks yet.


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
You need to go to stickies and get the codes the 27bb is exhaust sensor on bank 1. The code 2732 is a camshaft sensor inlet on bank 2. You should buy 4 and replace them. I only have 1 code so I'm replacing both inlets. I found them on ebay


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Understood but first things first I've got to get this rough idle taken care of then the rest Sir , I'm not sure if the other code have anything to do with the bad idle .


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
The camshaft sensors, especially 2 will cause a rough idle and since you replaced the plugs and coil packs it would start there. I'll let you know after I change my cam sensors. Also, did you try cleaning the MAF sensor and check for air leaks?


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes i did the only reason the airflow code came up was i unpugged it to clean it , i have checked for leaks but found none whats your thoughs on the fuel injectors , i just find it strange that only on one side Cylders 1234 are misfiring whats your thoughs ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
I spoke to my son who is a master mechanic and he said to check for a vacuum leak either the air tubes or the intake manifold. My 750 has been idling high and he's going to look at it soon. Do some research on the cam sensors though. I'm dropping my wife's car off tomorrow and I'll ask him about the misfires on bank 1 but he did tell me that the cam sensor could be a source of rough idling. Also, Check the crankcase vacuum at the oil filler hole. Place you palm on it with the engine idling. You should feel a very slight vacuum. If there is substantial vacuum, the crankcase vent valve is bad. Bluebee in this forum has a great write up on diagnosing a misfire. One of the items is cam sensor since this is a code with your misfire.

here you go:0. When you notice a BMW cold-start stumble ...
1. Shut the ignition off & wait 30 seconds before restarting
2. The stumble may go away but look for the SES light on the cluster which should remain
3. If you see an SES, check for a P1349 code and reset the MIL
4. If you have a P1349 code, swap ignition coils between #3 & #4
5. If the intermittent start stumble moves to cylinder #3, replace the coilpoolman coil recall information here)
6. If the start stumble returns on cylinder #4, swap or replace the plug
7. If the stumble returns on cylinder #4, swap or replace the plug boots
-----< after this point, I think we're moving away from the specific cylinder >-----
8. If it returns on cylinder #4, clean the MAF (hot film air-mass meter) with CRC & replace the air filter
9. If it returns, replace the "cam position sensor" (is there one specific to cylinder #4?)
10. If it returns, replace the Cam Position Sensor CPS (is this specific to cylinder #4?)
11. If it returns, replace the post-cat oxygen sensor (the pre-cat 02 sensor is not implicated)
12. If it returns, replace the VANOS seals (can variable valve timing affect only a single cylinder?)
-----< after this point, we're really shooting in the dark >-----
13. If it returns, replace the CCV (aka CVV oil separator valve)
14. If it returns, replace the fuel filter (one guy suggested replacing the fuel pump)
15. If it returns, add a bottle of Seafoam or Techron concentrate to the fuel
16. If it returns, clean the ICV (idle control valve) with carb cleaner
-----< people really suggested all these items in the respective threads
17. If it returns, replace the hose from the MAF to the engine
18. If it returns, replace any cracked "T-connection after the MAF sensor"
19. If it returns, replace the "valve cover gaskets (VCG) into the spark wells"
20. If it returns, clean or replace all the fuel injectors
21. If it returns, replace the "coolant temperature sensor"
22. If it returns, replace the alternator to raise the voltage (yes, this has been suggested)
-----< ok, these were listed as solutions but they aren't feasible >-----
23. If it returns, move to Georgia (from Michigan
24. If it returns, drive the car every day (don't let it sit for two days)
25. If it returns, check the "intake boot" for cracks and replace if necessary
26. If it returns, replace the "throttle position sensor" (TPS)
Note: Don't laugh; I've read dozens of threads and each of these has been posited as the "solution" to this intermittent problem!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
RealOEM calls them pulse generators and there are 2 on each side of the banks. You have Bank1 inlet and outlet and bank2 inlet and outlet. All 4 are the same part. They are called cam shaft sensors though.:)
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top