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I have a 97 E39 and my ASC light is on and it says to service my servomotor-throttle actuator. I replaced it and the cable and my light is still on and my RPMs are unstable need help whats wrong with her?
 

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Dinggg....what now!
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the wheel speed sensors also inputs the asc system tho i cannot remember which wheel it is.i faulted my rh front wheel speed sensor as the cause of the asc light on mine......the wire insulator was chaffed and conductor almost totally broke lest a few strands,taped it all up and all is fine....
 

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Seek to understand,^Value
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- All about DSC and the score of ABS DIY related sens/ors from MaxVQ including steering angle, brake pressure sensor, and wheel speed sensors (pdf)

UNDERSTAND WHEEL SPEED SENSORS:
Note: The wheel speed sensors are two-wire hall effect transducers which send a digital square wave signal with a low of .75 volts and a high of 2.5 volts to the DSC control unit. Each sensor receives a well-regulated 8 volt power supply from the control module through one wire. The ground path for the sensor is through the second wire back to the control module. The signal is generated by a pulse wheel affecting the voltage flow through the hall element in the sensor. The pulse wheel is integrated into the wheel bearing assembly, behind the seal. This protects the trigger wheel from foreign substances which may affect the wheel speed signal.

TEST WHEEL SENSOR CIRCUIT FROM THE ABS CONNECTOR
(also checks wiring circuit):
OPTIONAL: Jack car up (so that all four wheels can be spun to test voltage & resistance fluctuations of the hall-effect sensors)
- Turn the car off and remove the key from the ignition.
- TEST 1: Switch the DMM into the diode test position
- Wrap a stiff 20AWG wire onto the ends of your DMM probe for sticking into ABS-connector pins
- Label the positive 20AWG wire with white tape so that you won't get confused as you switch back and forth
- Stick the ends of the wire into the appropriate female holes of the ABS connector (13-29, 30-31, 28-12, 15-16)
- In one direction, you should see 1.7 to 1.8 volts (note the pinouts mentioned are in order, positive to negative)
- In the other direction, you should see OL or some other infinite reading (open circuit)
- TEST 2: Switch the DMM into resistance checking mode (optional)
- You should see around 3.3 Mega ohms in one direction & approximately twice that in the other direction (but some say more)
- TEST 3: If desired spin the wheel at about 1 revolution per second, by hand (the resistance should fluctuate as the wheel spins)
- TEST 4: Switch the DMM into millivolt mode (optional) & again spin the tire & wheel assembly by hand (test-lead polarity won't matter)
- You should read between 1 and 5 mV when you spin the hub (no voltage implicate the sensor or circuit)
- OPTIONAL TESTS BELOW REQUIRE FLYING LEADS WITH THE IGNITION SYSTEM ABS SYSTEM CONNECTED & POWERED UP:
- TEST 5: Swith the DMM into the 10v and attach flying leads to the sensors with the power on
- You should see the voltage going to the sensor and the return signal
- Expect a baseline voltage of about +5 to +12 volts depending on the ABS system (does anyone know this value?)
- Expect that baseline voltage to the sensor to change (by how much?) as you spin the wheels
- TEST 6: Hook an oscilloscope with "flying leads" to the ABS sensors (notice that the ABS system must be powered)
- You should see nice clean square waves generated as you hand spin the wheels at about 1 revolution per second.
Note: The oscilliscope can detect problems that can't easily be found with a DMM (A scope pattern for a wheel speed sensor should show a classic sine wave alternating current pattern that changes both in frequency and amplitude with wheel speed. As the wheel is turned faster, signal frequency and amplitude should both increase. Damaged or missing teeth on the sensor ring will show up as flat spots or gaps in the sine wave pattern. A bent axle or hub will produce an undulating pattern that changes as the strength of the sensor signal changes with every revolution. If the scope pattern produced by the sensor is flattened (diminished amplitude) or is erratic, it usually indicates a weak signal caused by an excessively wide air gap between the tip of the sensor and its ring, or a buildup of metallic debris on the end of the sensor. A weak signal can also be caused by internal resistance in the sensor or its wiring circuit, or loose or corroded wiring connectors.)


INTERPRET DIODE-TEST RESULTS:
- If the DMM, in diode mode, reads infinity ("OL") in both directions, you've got a bad sensor or circuit
- If the DMM, in resistance mode, reads much greater than 7Mohms, you've got a bad sensor or circuit
- If all 4 sensors read OK, it's most likely the ABS control unit.
- If you think you found two bad sensors, you probably messed up.
- Rarely is the cause due to bad steering angle (yaw/lew) sensors
- Rarely is the cause due to a bad hydro unit
- The problem is almost always a wheel rotation sensor or the ABS control unit

ACTUAL RESULTS ON MY 2002 E39 THIS MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND:


DOUBLECHECK WHEEL SENSORS AT THE WHEEL:
Note: You can run this test w/o removing the wheel but access to the sensor connector is easier with the wheels off the E39
- If one or more sensor circuits test bad in any of the three tests above ... then ...
- Locate the sensor blue connector in the rear of each front wheel well by turning the front wheels
- Easiest to first locate the sensor (bolted on the wheel carrier near the hub) and trace its wire back to a black plastic hinged box housing
- Open the locked hinged plastic rectangular black box with a small flathead screwdriver
- Locate the blue wheel sensor connector (next to a black brake wear sensor connector)
- Pull the blue wheel sensor connector out of the box and disconnect the two sides
- Re-check the sensor there with the diode function of the DMM



CHECK WHEEL SENSORS OFF THE VEHICLE:
- If any sensor still checks bad, pull the sensor off the vehicle for a closer inspection
- Chock wheels and jack E39 BMW and jack stand at the 4 jack pad locations
- Remove 4mm allen head bolts to sensor retention screw (two retaining bolts for fronts, 1 bolt for the rears)
- Pull wheel sensor out of hub assembly, straight up.
- Clean with CRC electronic cleaner
- Check with DMM diode-test meter as before
- Grease with Staburags NBU 12/K or equivalent grease
- Replace sensor back into hub assembly, snug tighten to 6 foot pounds
- Replace rear wheel, tighten to 82 to 96 foot pounds
Note: You might wish to swap sensors on the same axle when replacing so as to obtain further diagnostic information should an anomaly occur.
Note: Here is a picture of a dirty and cleaned sensor (magnetic particle buildup)

 
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