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Discussion Starter #1
I've not had electric windows fail before. Today, I went to roll down my RR window on my 1999 540I. I stopped it about half way down because I could tell something was wrong. Well, good thing I stopped. It rolls down, but not up. I had to pull it up. It won't stay all the way up now either. After driving for 20 minutes or so, it slides down about an inch.

Should I be looking at a regulator, a new motor, or both? I'd like to go in and do it once. Where I live, monsoon season is just starting. It's our rainy season!! Any suggestions from previous experience with this problem? Thanks!
 

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Hammer,

Amazon, under $60.00 w/shipping.

In the next year, you'll replace, in order: Drivers, Passenger Front, Passenger rear.

Lube the tracks/window guides.
I used silicone spray.

Have fun.

Hb
 

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I've used the repair kit for my back windows, but buying new is ok too. They just don't get as much use with no kids anymore..fronts have to be new. Replaced mine; they don't last no matter who's you buy, from what I've read. Now I've seen a write-up on changing out the plastic wheels to steel; a guy mills the wheel and sells them to you, you drill out the plastic ones on your new reg's and follow his instructions for new fastening materials and application. Those will likely outlast the car. Couple of hundred bucks or more extra for both front windows plus labor(time, money, hassle whatever). I've basically quit using my windows, I confess. Am able to get to the regulator and start removing it inside of 15 minutes now, once everybody's asleep with the negative cable off. Just been buying the $29 cheapies off fleabay and throwing them in to keep the windows from falling down. HaHa. Sad. But true. The heat out here in AZ just kills the plastic wheels. Turns 'em into dust inside of 2 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hammer,

Amazon, under $60.00 w/shipping.

In the next year, you'll replace, in order: Drivers, Passenger Front, Passenger rear.

Lube the tracks/window guides.
I used silicone spray.

Have fun.

Hb
What part(s) are you referring to for $60 with shipping? I don't know what I'm searching for?? Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I've used the repair kit for my back windows, but buying new is ok too. They just don't get as much use with no kids anymore..fronts have to be new. Replaced mine; they don't last no matter who's you buy, from what I've read. Now I've seen a write-up on changing out the plastic wheels to steel; a guy mills the wheel and sells them to you, you drill out the plastic ones on your new reg's and follow his instructions for new fastening materials and application. Those will likely outlast the car. Couple of hundred bucks or more extra for both front windows plus labor(time, money, hassle whatever). I've basically quit using my windows, I confess. Am able to get to the regulator and start removing it inside of 15 minutes now, once everybody's asleep with the negative cable off. Just been buying the $29 cheapies off fleabay and throwing them in to keep the windows from falling down. HaHa. Sad. But true. The heat out here in AZ just kills the plastic wheels. Turns 'em into dust inside of 2 years.
Hey Bimmerfeel, could you please be specific about which parts I'm to look for? This is something I've never had to do before, so this repair is all new to me. I'm doing it myself.

I've always bought new cars and sold them, except for my Corvette & GTO. Thank you!
 

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Hey Bimmerfeel, could you please be specific about which parts I'm to look for? This is something I've never had to do before, so this repair is all new to me. I'm doing it myself.

I've always bought new cars and sold them, except for my Corvette & GTO. Thank you!
Sure...

This gets you to a post on bimmerforums.com re: metal wheels and related swap hardware:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...MW-Window-Regulator-Metal-Pulley-Retrofit-Kit

Rear window repair piece on Amazon: ( I have not tried these or heard of anyone who has; looks good tho)
https://www.amazon.com/RegulatorFix-Window-Regulator-Repair-Bracket/dp/B00BT1H07K

Rear window repair kit: (I have used on both of my rear windows, ez quick fix)
http://www.bmwrepairkit.com/

This guys post is an addenda, really, to most(all?) other posts as there are some good tips and clarifications on little stuff once you're in there..
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4794683&postcount=1

Lastly, this is a video from Bentley on how to R&R a rear door regulator; plenty of other DIY writeups on the forum and videos too. Some are great, some just so-so. This one is at least educational:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrL6rlYl504

Ok so this'll get you going. And when you're arse deep in alligators on stuff like this with our beloved bimmers, just remember that "weight equals horsepower". Munich knew this and just made whatever they could either light, or super light. Reliability comes under pressure in these circumstances.

As far as keeping the window up till stuff starts to arrive in the mail, most guys take off the door card and vapor barrier, cut a broom handle/length of wood to fit between the glass and door bottom and install it. Keeps it up ok. Taping it up looks pretty ghetto, and simply does not work in the heat out here, as you've probably know by now..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bimmerfeel - wow, thanks for the links and video clip. I'm on my way out and will check these out later today. ;)
 

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What are you silicone spraying in the window guides? I'm having issues with the piece that clips to the door not sliding at all. It just folds up and down which causes the window to get stuck...
 

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What are you silicone spraying in the window guides? I'm having issues with the piece that clips to the door not sliding at all. It just folds up and down which causes the window to get stuck...
Not me. Someone else posted the silicone spray comment. Look farther up in the posts.
 

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Yeah sorry...thats who I was mentioning. I'll take a look at mine in the morning and see if I can get the window to slide a bit better
 

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I have same problem. the cable runs the length of the track. there are 2 stops on the cable. 1 above the bracket secured to the bottom of the wndow and 1 below. the 1 below always breaks off because it bears the weight of the window when raising it.
 
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