[Dennis33]

Friday morning, started my S54 M Coupe and drove it to the Health club.
Started it at the Health club and drove it to work.
Came out at noon to go to lunch, it would not start.

Lights, horn, radar detector, locks, etc. works.
Turn the key, nothing.

Battery is one of Interstate's best and only 15 months old.
Tried to jump it, nothing.
Took the battery out and took it to Interstate. They gave me a new battery.
Installed the new battery, tied to start it, nothing.

Called "Roadside Assistence" and had it towed to the BMW dealer.
They worked on it Saturday morning and have no idea what is wrong.

About two weeks ago, drove over a bump in the road and the engine and everything else died for about 3 seconds and then everything came back. The radar detector went through it's start-up sequence as when you turn it off. The DSC light on the dash went on but would not go off, even after pressing the DSC button several times. I had to turn off and on the engine to rest the DSC light. I did not have any problems since then until Friday at noon.
The BMW dealer will work on it again Monday.

Does anyone have any ideas what may be wrong?

 

[daven]

Bad or loose ground connection. The bump probably broke the connection and shut everything down, then the connection re-established itself and everything came back to life. My FIAT Spyder suffered from the same problem for many months, until slamming the truck lid in frustration resulted in the car coming back to life. Guess where the main ground strap was - the trunk floor. FWIW the FIAT dealer was clueless. "He's back, fix it again, Tony!"

Your Z3 is lightyears more advanced electrically and maybe its something more. But
I've found, its the simple things that'll bite your butt faster than all the electronic gizmo's and diagnostics out there. .Best of Luck

 

[QikSilver]

Mine would shut-off while driving. :yikes: It was the ignition switch.

 

[felonious monk]

If it's a loose ground connection, it doesn't explain why the radar dectector and other electrical accessories still work.

I think a faulty ignition component is more likely.

 

[daven]

Sorry my bad. I based my diagnosis on the bump scenario. With both, faulty ignition
is more likely. Still Good Luck

 

[Randy Forbes]

If it's a loose ground connection, it doesn't explain why the radar dectector and other electrical accessories still work.

I think a faulty ignition component is more likely.

Well, a poor ground can conduct enough current for a radar detector, et all. But the starter motor is the only reason the battery cables are #2 awg; it needs lots of current

Dennis, did you try starting it with your "other" key. The security codes in the key have been known to fail before too. Of course, that doesn't explain the momentary black-out after driving over a bump (next time, get an X5 for that).

 

[Dennis33]

Another Key

Randy:

I brought them a second key this morning, to insure that it was not a key problem.
The second key did not resolve the problem.

My warranty is up in June. I am glad it happened now instead after June.
They already have several hours into it.

I'm glad it happened in the middle of the day at work, instead of at night somewhere in a bad part of town.

I'll let you all know what they finally find.

 

[ARC///M]

Point well

I have heard of that happening or a lose Connector at the(ECM) or and open on the buss see if his ecu relay makes next time it fails you can hear it make when the key goes to run and start!..

 

[QikSilver]

It might be just tired from turning that 3.73 all the time.

 

[Razorbak]

Dennis, is the starter turning the engine over, but it's just not firing? Or is the starter not even engaging the flywheel?

 

[Dennis33]

Problem found

?Faulty clutch switch?, was the problem.
Must be a part "Made in the USA".

I stopped by the BMW dealer this morning, with a copy of all your comments and the car was
running in the work bay. He said it started this morning.

You know how you have to have the clutch all the way in, to allow the engine to start?

Well, the switch that tells the computer that you have the clutch in, was out of adjustment.

They tried to adjust it, but the switch is FUBAR, so they ordered another one.

This doesn't explain why the car shut completely down a week ago, whille I was driving it.

 

[Randy Forbes]

This doesn't explain why the car shut completely down a week ago, whille I was driving it.

Don't you just love electrical problems?!

Glad they at least got it breathing again :thumbup:

 

[dwm]

?Faulty clutch switch?, was the problem.
Must be a part "Made in the USA".

I stopped by the BMW dealer this morning, with a copy of all your comments and the car was
running in the work bay. He said it started this morning.

You know how you have to have the clutch all the way in, to allow the engine to start?

Well, the switch that tells the computer that you have the clutch in, was out of adjustment.

They tried to adjust it, but the switch is FUBAR, so they ordered another one.

This doesn't explain why the car shut completely down a week ago, whille I was driving it.

I'll take a stab at one potential problem... loose positive battery cable on the battery terminal. When I installed the Interstate MTP-91, I noticed that it was a little bit shorter than the stock battery. The foam in the battery box, and the configuration of the positive battery cable, didn't let me get the battery cable all the way on to the battery post. I had to trim about 1/2" off the top of the foam in the battery box.

Are you the original owner? Has the pyro ever gone off to cut the battery? Just wondering if your positive cable is one that had the pyro fire and was then just pushed back in place (there was a thread on this months ago).

 

[Ron Stygar]

I'll take a stab at one potential problem... loose positive battery cable on the battery terminal. When I installed the Interstate MTP-91, I noticed that it was a little bit shorter than the stock battery. The foam in the battery box, and the configuration of the positive battery cable, didn't let me get the battery cable all the way on to the battery post. I had to trim about 1/2" off the top of the foam in the battery box.

 

[dwm]

Yes, a picture's worth a thousand words.

 

[Dennis33]

Help...help...help..

I have had m 2001 M coupe in to the dealer 4 times for this intermittent not starting problem.
I have to push the car and pop the clutch to get it started.

Jack Sweeney BMW, in Cincinnati, cannot find the problem.
Again, I had it towed to the dealer the fist time.
It wouldn't start for them for two days. They had no idea what was wrong.
Then on a Monday morning it started.
For some reason, they replaced the clutch switch.
I guess they felt they had to do something.
It was OK for about two weeks, and then it would not start.
I have to push it and pop the clutch to get it running.
I cannot trust it and I have to park where I can push it to get it started.

This is the same dealer that striped the threads in my oil pan and tried to blame it on me.

I had it back about two months ago and they adjusted the clutch switch.
I waited several weeks for a "BMW Tech" guy that stops in once a month, to get it back in this week. They had it all day and again could not determine what the problem is.
I brought it home last night. I drove my truck today. When I got home tonight, it will not start again.

They have done all the testing with the battery and found no problems.

I know it is hard to find the problem when it is starting, but they had it for two days, when it first happened and could not find the problem.

I was planning on taking the car to the Smoky Mountains next week, but I cannot trust that it will start every time.

Being an IT Manager and dealing with computers all day, I know how an intermittent electrical problem can be a real challenge to fix, but this is getting ridiculous!

Any suggestions?

:dunno:

 

[Ron Stygar]

I have had m 2001 M coupe in to the dealer 4 times for this intermittent not starting problem.
I have to push the car and pop the clutch to get it started.

:

I assume by not starting, the starter is not turning over.
If your familar and have a multimeter it would be relatively easy to narrow it down the next time it happens. If so, I could send you some info.
The EWS module is under the drivers side dash. Its 15 pin white connector is facing out.
Pin 3 is hot with the clutch pedal pushed down with the ignition in accy, run and start.
Pin 8 is hot with the ignition in the start position.
Pin 7 will also be hot in start if all of the EWS stuff is working.
Pin 7 goes to the relay in the starter.

 

[Dennis33]

The problem continues....

Thanks for emailing me.

This problem is driving me crazy.
I have to push the car and pop the clutch to get the car started.

One of the many visits to the dealer for this problem, they replaced the clutch switch.
The said the problem was the clutch switch which was not allowing the car to start.
After about two weeks the problem reappeared.
I have to push the car and pop the clutch to get the car started.

I took it back to the dealer and they adjusted the clutch switch.
After about two weeks the problem appeared.
I have to push the car and pop the clutch to get the car started.

I took it back to the dealer and they could not get it NOT to start.
They returned the car to me.
After about two weeks the problem appeared.
I have to push the car and pop the clutch to get the car started.

After pushing the car to start it, it will start by turning the key for a week or two.

The Jack Sweeney BMW dealer is now trying to blame it on the battery, which is BS.

I had a 1999 M Coupe before I got my 2001 M coupe.
The original battery in the 1999 M Coupe died right before I got the 2001 M Coupe, in the fall of 2003.

When I got the 2001 M Coupe in February of 2004, I switched batteries between the 1999 and 2001 M Coupe.

I did this because the 2001 M Coupe battery was over 3 years old and the 1999 M Coupe had was a new battery.
The BMW dealer is saying that the battery I have in the 2001 M Coupe is slightly different from the stock battery.
They said that the battery I have in the 2001 M Coupe is slightly shorter than the stock battery and
because of this the cables may not be making a good connection. This is BS

They told me today that they will not work on my car until I get a new battery that is exactly the same size and specifications as the stock battery.
I paid over $100 to get another battery that is exactly the same size and specifications as the stock battery.
After installing the battery in my car, it still would not start.

I had received a response to my Roadfly post telling me that someone else had a similar problem and it was related to the security system.
They said if they get in the car and then lock and secure the car while sitting in the car and then start the car, the security system is then disabled and the car starts.
Well, I tried this several times without any luck.
I sat in the car and kept pushing the clutch in and out many times while trying to start the car.
After about five minutes of doing this, the car finally started.
I turned the car off and on several times now NOW the car starts every time.

I was reading the "security and remote entry system" book.
One of the thief deterrent features is to DISABLE the ignition and starting of the engine.
The dealer has already replace a faulty the security system about a year ago.
I think the security system may be the problem.

I know the problem is still there and because of this, I do NOT feel comfortable taking the car anywhere, which is SUCKS!

Dennis Logan

 

[99flhr]

Can we assume that Dealer has checked/tightened connections AT the starter motor?
Push start, then runs for 2wks, "Dead spot" on starter, burn on commutator?
Famous clutch pedal bushing allowing enough deflection to keep interlock switch from making contact? Just fishing.

 

[phrider]

Did you ever locate the source of this problem to your satisfaction?

My MZ3 Roadster wouldn't start for a long return commute today. Power and lights all on, no click, no start.

I had two different keys with me, and neither one would start car.

Then, after the tow was ordered, I tried one more time... and it started. And it has started several times since.

Likely candidates:
1. Clutch switch (I bought one for reemptive replacement)
2. Keys (both of them???)
3. EWS (How does this process work? Do locks have to be changed, too?)
4. Starter solenoid

Suggestions??

PS: No codes on Peake, no codes on full shop diagnostic system