You have two tensioner pulleys and an idler pulley right next to the alternator. If you didn't replace the 2nd tensioner pulley, that's where i'd start. with the belt off you can spin the pulley wheel - it should spin with a little resistance and no play if it's still good. and no chirping.

Otherwise you may have a bearing failing in one of the accessories.

feiter said:

I see this issue with old posts as far back as 2006 but nothing new so I am posting again. I have a squeal especially upon cold start but all the time intermittent. I have replace both belts and still had squeal. I then replace both mechanical belt tensioners (one is on AC unit and the other is on the Alternator) and I still have the squeal. What is next as I don't seem to be able to isolate the noise--it really does seem like it may still be coming from the alternator but not sure.. Help!!!

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That did it! I replaced the idler pulley located on the front of the Alternator and screaming is finally gone. For those with future service plans--I suggest you replace both tension adjusters (one is located on AC and the other on and below the alternator) and also replace the idler pulley on the alternator. Crazy thing is I had to remove the alternator idler pulley to get at and replace the tensioner so should have done all at once.

Now all I have to do is get rid of a leaking valve cover and car should be okay for a while.

Cool. And after that short while a window regulator will blow. :rofl:

Very True but I have already replaced passenger front and driver rear of that bugger! Was not bad either!

Tackling the valve cover gasket next. Burning oil stinking up the cabin!

Don't use victor reinz brand. Doing vanos seals too?

I've caught a coule o my windows in time to zip tie. Fronts. Rear ate itself n had to buy parts. Not too bad

feiter said:

Tackling the valve cover gasket next. Burning oil stinking up the cabin!

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Using Goetze Valve Cover gasket Set. No on Vanos Seals and not replacing plugs either--will probably regret it though.

You can reuse the gasket if you do it within a year or two I'd think. Getting to plugs isn't that much work you'd save, IMO.

Thanks Ahull I will let you know how the gasket replace goes.

Help! Despite being warned about old brittle plastic parts I broke the hose that goes from the valve cover to someplace low in the front of the engine and left of the alternator. Does anyone know what the item is called and maybe the part number. I need to know how to replace the thing as it is completely broken--I swear I was being as gentle as possible and it broke anyway! I have completed the new gasket install but don't want to start the engine until I replace this part--would oil leak out it I do start it?

I have been searching high and low for an engine diagram that would show this part and can't locate one.

Your help is appreciated.

Bill

It's probably a CCV hose. Runs from front drivers corner of vc under the intake manifold? Realoem. Com has schematics. I think it's under engine/ intake manifold or cylinder head.

Oil won't leak but that's a big vac leak. Car may run sketchy.

Hi Ahull! I think it is called a crankcase vent pipe and part numbers are 11-61-1-432-559 and/or 11-61-7-533-398 and this last one is for cold start. How do I know if I need the cold start one? Attaches on front top of valve cover and immediately heads south but can't see what it attaches to--too many parts in way.

diagram where I found part seems to show a connector with multiple vent hoses attaching to it.

How do I get to it to replace? What do I have to remove? Looks like power steering reservoir at very least.

Thanks for quick reply.

Look in the wiki for the crancase vent CCV DIY. Photos will show you. It's buried deep under the intake manifold and is something of a PITA to get to. If your car is north of 80,000 you'd be wise to change out the CCV and all the hoses. Several hour job. EDIT: Here's the thread from wiki: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417819

You probably don't need the cold weather version but wont hurt anything if that's all you can find.... usually on the east coast we say only need to get it if you're north of the Mason-Dixon line so you be the judge depending on how cold/harsh your winters are.

Wondering if you can salvage what you have at all. Car will likely run crappy til you fix it. Got any pics of the pieces?

feiter said:

Hi Ahull! I think it is called a crankcase vent pipe and part numbers are 11-61-1-432-559 and/or 11-61-7-533-398 and this last one is for cold start. How do I know if I need the cold start one? Attaches on front top of valve cover and immediately heads south but can't see what it attaches to--too many parts in way.

diagram where I found part seems to show a connector with multiple vent hoses attaching to it.

How do I get to it to replace? What do I have to remove? Looks like power steering reservoir at very least.

Thanks for quick reply.

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Wow--I am not up to this and can only imagine all the bad stuff to run into on a 14 year old!. All I really need is a piece of about 1/2" OD shrink tube to keep this old one going. Wonder if they make one that large?

I can take and send pic of broken hose--it broke in the bend from the fitting at the valve cover connector and the non-flexible part of the hose that heads south. I think I am going to try to repair. maybe a piece of hose inserted in both pieces and held with clamps? Suggestions?

It's actually not that bad, especially if you watch the bavauto vids on youtube.... all 3. Trickiest part is getting the hoses on the valve and then snaking through the cramped passages under the intake manifold. There is usually some choice swearing involved though, even for the skilled wrenchers like myself.

I was thinking the exact thing on the hose. Shunt in a piece of rubber or vinyl tubing to bridge it on the inside, then maybe RTV it closed so it will be airtight. Definitely a ghetto fix, but if it works, you can still drive non-spirited until you can fix properly. Hell, even add some duct tape for good luck..... er, help it hold together.

Other thought was slip it into the broken piece, then leave off the elbow and slip the other end into the shunt on the valve cover. Then RTV and/or duct tape for airtight seal.

Further, might need some whittling on the ends to get them to fit. OR, get a piece large enough to fit over both the shunt and the hose left on the car. Obviously the inner and outer dimensions will dictate which will work better.

feiter said:

Wow--I am not up to this and can only imagine all the bad stuff to run into on a 14 year old!. All I really need is a piece of about 1/2" OD shrink tube to keep this old one going. Wonder if they make one that large?

I can take and send pic of broken hose--it broke in the bend from the fitting at the valve cover connector and the non-flexible part of the hose that heads south. I think I am going to try to repair. maybe a piece of hose inserted in both pieces and held with clamps? Suggestions?

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If you haven't done the CCV and hoses yet you are definitely due. Same for cleaning the ICV and TB, and rebuilding your DISA valve - all of which you have to take off anyway to get to the CCV. It'll take most of a day, but you won't ever have to do it again. With the VANOS seals, you can either rebuild it yourself or buy one already done from Dr. Vanos. I'm surprised you don't have cold start issues with original vanos seals.


If you've done the valve cover gasket, you can do all this stuff. None of it is that hard.... maybe time consuming..... no special tools required......and you've got great resources to help you - the 'fest, e46 wiki, youtube etc.

woops. did not mean to post here. sorry!

woops. did not mean to post here. sorry!

^^^Butterfingers! Twice?!?! :rofl: