BimmerFest BMW Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some advice, had my new 335 e93 for 400 mi now and i am planning to give it its first wash and wax.

Read many of the discussions here so thanks for all the advice so far though I'm still confused on the following.

My plan is wash/dry -> clay -> clean/polish (Klasse AIO) -> sealant (Klasse SG) -> wax (P21S).

(1) Should I be using this acrylic sealant or is a polymer based sealant better or should I skip the sealant.

(2) If I use a sealant like Klasse SG or other, I am worried about it flaking off and/or yellowing (hence the question below), is this possible or very unlikely. The fact that Klasse SG is acrylic has got me worried about flaking off since I believe it would be hard and brittle, maybe why polymer based sealant may be better ?

(3) When you need to repeat the procedure down the road, how do you get the sealant off the get back to the clearcoat with out stripping the clearcoat. I have read various suggesting "Dawn" but others saying never use harsh detergents like Dawn. How do you remove the old wax and sealant.

Hopefully I don't screw this up :tsk:

Thanks for everyone's help so far. ::thumbup:
 

·
C code: 405/3
Joined
·
876 Posts
Any kind of sealant will never 'flake' off. They just wear away gradually with many washes and buffs. Waxes vanish much quicker.

No sealant I know off will 'yellow' over time so you're safe in that department too.

If you have SG, use it, otherwise most any sealant will be fine. All will last a long time, much longer than plain wax. A few more popular and current sealants would be OptiSeal and Ultima's PGP but there are quite a few others by many popular manufacturers and I can't think of any that are bad or terrible.

Remove old stuff? Use IPA with a microfiber towel if you want to be sure. (Isopropyl Alcohol mixed 50/50 with distilled water).

If you have any ethanol from Scotland, package it up and send it to me. I'll send you back some IPA and thanks a ton in advance, :)
-John C.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
958 Posts
Any kind of sealant will never 'flake' off. They just wear away gradually with many washes and buffs. Waxes vanish much quicker.

No sealant I know off will 'yellow' over time so you're safe in that department too.

If you have SG, use it, otherwise most any sealant will be fine. All will last a long time, much longer than plain wax. A few more popular and current sealants would be OptiSeal and Ultima's PGP but there are quite a few others by many popular manufacturers and I can't think of any that are bad or terrible.

Remove old stuff? Use IPA with a microfiber towel if you want to be sure. (Isopropyl Alcohol mixed 50/50 with distilled water).

If you have any ethanol from Scotland, package it up and send it to me. I'll send you back some IPA and thanks a ton in advance, :)
-John C.
:thumbup:

Klasse is a polymer sealant ( there are approx 30,000 configurations of polyers)

Scientific explanation, for us technical geeks
Acrylic (polymer) sealants:
The molecular structure of all polymers are based on a chain of carbon atoms, chemically it is a molecule formed by the chemical union of five or more identical combining units called monomers. Polyacrylate - a group of polymers which could be referred to as plastics generally, they are noted for their transparency. Some acrylate monomers (the components of the polymers) used to form acrylate polymers may be acrylic acid, butyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or methyl acrylate. With polyethylene-acrylics, there is no reaction and it is more like a lacquer that dries.

These products contain polyethylene-acrylic acid that causes minor etching of the paint, which enables molecular bonding with the paint surface, which in turn results in durability versus just using a polyethylene based products. Zaino and Dura Gloss are two examples of acrylic polymers, which produce a 'clear bright shine'. Klasse or Werkstatt (acrylic polymers) tend to produce a 'liquid glow'. The acrylic paint solvent carrier system allows the dense molecule to spread and cross-link forming a hard protective surface. Fracture/evaporation temperatures - 265 - 285 oF (130 - 140°C)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks JohnC , TOGWT

going into battle now, keeping fingers crossed, thanks for the advice/info. :thumbup:

John, i just sent you some single malt ethonal, it was lying around in the garage for the last 40 years so i won't miss it. :)
 

·
C code: 405/3
Joined
·
876 Posts
thanks JohnC , TOGWT

going into battle now, keeping fingers crossed, thanks for the advice/info. :thumbup:

John, i just sent you some single malt ethonal, it was lying around in the garage for the last 40 years so i won't miss it. :)
Thank you mrjones, thank you, thank you. I'll name my nextborn after you and I'll try my best to send a sampler to Togwt too. It'll be a small sample though.
-John C.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well yesterday i spent essentially the whole day wash -> clay -> wash -> polish -> sealant
That took a lot longer than I thought it would, from 9 am to 7pm, maybe being to OCD.

I noticed that during the claying the most of the contaminant was on the hood/bonnet, not too much though. The rest of the car was noticeably more clean, which I thought surprising as I thought the front bumper area would be the most dirty , but it wasn't. (car has not been out much though 350 mi, garaged when not driven). Roof was 2nd dirtiest, quarter panels were actually pretty clean.

Was wondering if most have similar observations.

Anyway, should I apply another coat of sealant (Klasse SG) or is the one sufficient.

Also, do I need to let the sealant cure/sit for some time before waxing.

thanks
 

·
C code: 405/3
Joined
·
876 Posts
I think it's just natural that the horizontal parts hold everything more than the vertical parts.

Put on a 2nd application of the SG. At the very least, the second application will cover areas that may have been missed with the first application. After 3 layers you probably won't notice any more gloss or shine so 2 or 3 layers will provide max coverage, protection, and shine.

All sealants I know of require time for the molecules to set up and link. 18 hrs is a good rule of thumb. Quite often users will report that their shine actually got better overnight. That's the setup time at work.

Maybe try the wipe on, wipe off method for the 2nd layer.
-John C.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Guys, thanks for your help, I put on that 2nd coat of SG (waiting one day for each coat to cure, wipe on wipe off - John) then topped it with P21S.

It turned out beautifully.:thumbup:

I'll post some pics once it stops raining, been working inside the garage, been raining since Sat., pics from inside the garage didn't come out very well, anyway it looks great.

Time to sip on some ethanol myself now.

thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My first detail (am I supposed to light up a cigarette now :)).

Well the rain finally stopped and I was able to grab some late sunlight and pull it out of the garage for this pic.

Thanks for everyone's help, I think it turned out pretty nice. :thumbup:

Now all I need to learn is how to take a proper photo. :dunno:
 

Attachments

·
C code: 405/3
Joined
·
876 Posts
Yup, light up that cig and enjoy.
That's one great looking shine for sure and I'm thinking if you could make the driveway uniformly dark without the wet/dry variations, it'd make a stunning background for your computer desktop.
-John C.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
Great job! Looks really good.

I'm very, very new to detailing so I'm trying to collect all the information I can now so that I'm prepared to do my first detail soon too.

Wow. Detailing does take a long time.

Johnz3mc, is it necessary to wait for the sealant to dry (18 hours) before applying the next coat? or can I apply it a short time after the initial coat was applied then wait for it to fully cure before taking it out on the road?

Also if it is necessary to wait for things to dry (ie: wash, then wait a few hours to dry before starting the next process), does the insignifcant amount of dust that may accumulate on the car matter?
 

·
C code: 405/3
Joined
·
876 Posts
Great job! Looks really good.

I'm very, very new to detailing so I'm trying to collect all the information I can now so that I'm prepared to do my first detail soon too.

Wow. Detailing does take a long time.

Johnz3mc, is it necessary to wait for the sealant to dry (18 hours) before applying the next coat? or can I apply it a short time after the initial coat was applied then wait for it to fully cure before taking it out on the road?

Also if it is necessary to wait for things to dry (ie: wash, then wait a few hours to dry before starting the next process), does the insignifcant amount of dust that may accumulate on the car matter?
The waiting time varies hugely depending on the next process/application.
After a wash, most anything can happen immediately after drying. Apply a wax: yes. Apply a sealant: yes.
If you're worried about dust after 24 hrs and can see it, get rid of it. Even if you can't see it after 24 hrs, get rid of it. A QD (quick detailer) and a microfiber is a really fast insurance solution for possible dust.
The waxes and sealants need time to set up and the times vary by manufacturer. I've seen some sealants that can be layered after 3 or 4 hours. Others recommend up to 18 hours to set (crosslink) properly. (As a rule of thumb, 18 hrs seems to be a safe recommendation for most sealants to set properly but check the directions for what the manufacturer suggests.)
If you try another sealant layer too soon, you'll notice streaking, indicating the first layer hadn't set up properly yet. You'll have to buff off the streaks with a QD or water mist and start again with the sealant. No harm done, just wasted effort.
(Lately I've been trying Ultima's PGP with Danase Wet Glaze. Three layers of the UPGP look great and have a bonus effect (here in BC anyway) of making the rain just blow off at highway speeds, leaving a perfect non spotted surface after the rain squall moves on)
-John C.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top